Time for a new barrel, so what else should I do?

[jelenko]

For 1/2 MOA:
I like remage also. Cost will be less than $400 including the tools needed. [You can put the barrel in vise jaws from Brownells and screw on the action.]
Stock remington action [i.e., no work done on the action] with a good barrel [e.g., one from Urbanrifleman], a reasonable trigger in a solid stock [your current stock should be bedded].

Not bushing the firing pin hole is NOT going to keep you from getting 1/2 MOA.

Net: Barrel: $400
Trigger: $300
Bedding: Not sure, but I think $800 would cover it - maybe someone would comment.

 

[urbanrifleman]

For 1/2 MOA:
I like remage also. Cost will be less than $400 including the tools needed. [You can put the barrel in vise jaws from Brownells and screw on the action.]
Stock remington action [i.e., no work done on the action] with a good barrel [e.g., one from Urbanrifleman], a reasonable trigger in a solid stock [your current stock should be bedded].

Not bushing the firing pin hole is NOT going to keep you from getting 1/2 MOA.

Net: Barrel: $400
Trigger: $300
Bedding: Not sure, but I think $800 would cover it - maybe someone would comment.

Many times much less than 1/2 moa with good technique.

 

[6MMsteve]

Keep it cheap do it yourself, Bugholes barrel remage, 800.00, chassis 500 trigger 300...then have fun...it's what I do...or you can get a Urban Barrel...good barrels I have one I'm just about to complete from Urban guy...can wait to play with it

 

[Clancy]

Just starting to think about this, so I probably lack answers to a lot of questions that may come.

I have a short action Rem 700 ADL in 22-250 with a sporter barrel that I purchased around 1970. I have never been fond of the lightweight barrel, but otherwise like the rifle, so I kept it. Finally, it is ready for a new barrel. (No idea how many rounds, but I cannot come close to reaching the lands with the light bullets that this rifle likes.)

I would like to keep the action and make a good shooting rifle out of it. Probably in 22-250, 243, 7MM-08 or 308. It will be a range toy limited to 600 yds. I do not shoot competitively. I really have no budget in mind but am currently thinking around $1500. (not including optics) if possible. I know I need a stock or chassis, barrel, and trigger.

My question is what else should I consider? Bolt work? Any work on the action? ETC? Scrap this idea and buy a new rifle?

Edit to add: By good shooter, I am thinking consistent 1/2 MOA.

I’d change the firing pin spring and upgrade the trigger. Throw a #5 brux or krieger on it if the stock allows and be happy.

Check out a set of Hawkins one piece rings (think Talley but beefy.)

I am no fan of prefits, so I’d definitely get the barrel shouldered by a competent smith.

 

[Ccrider]

If you will be satisfied with a Remington that shoots 1/2 moa or better, talk to urbanrifleman and he will get you there as affordable as you can stand to achieve your desired result. The type of stock, barrel contour and trigger should be dictated by your intended use. At a minimum, have the trigger worked by an experienced smith. It want cost much and done correctly, the trigger will break clean, as light as you want, with no creep.

Or, as suggested reach out to Jim Hart and let him fix you up.

I would not worry about having the rifle trued and blueprinted. A good barrel properly chambered and a good trigger is going to shoot well and my smith says that blueprinting and truing will not make it shoot better. Also, bedding the rifle willl not necessarily make it shoot better, so I would not have that high on my list of priorities. I would shoot it first and if it did not shoot as expected, I might have it bedded.

The problem is that by the time you pay for bedding, truing and blueprinting you could have sold the rifle and bought a used custom rifle.

Last, 6br is the easy button for caliber. Lapua brass is plentiful and you can choose whatever twist suits your fancy and bullets and powder are readily available, as is plenty of information on proven loads.

 

[rebs]

why not go with a 223? Brass is abundant and its a cheap round to shoot

 

[dgeesaman]

Okay, now I get to show my ignorance. Could you inform me on what blueprinting is/does?

Also, is bolt bushing the same as shimming the firing pin?

Blueprinting is inspecting the action and bolt and correcting any misaligned surfaces and improving on the factory machining tolerances. It’s arguable how much that means and whether any two gunsmiths will produce inspection results that agree with each other, but I’d at least ask the smith if the action shows signs of really needing it.

Bushing the bolt means plugging and remachining the firing pin hole to have a closer fit than factory. This can help a cartridge to shoot safely near the upper end, as clearance around the firing pin hole can allow a primer to puncture at lower pressure. Unless you’re hand loading for the upper node, I wouldn’t worry about it either.

 

[WyleWD]

I like simple. I like inexpensive.

So I often chose to rebarrel with cartridge I already have dies, bullets and components for.

Depending on your budget for these supporting parts, if you are just shooting at the range, why not a 6BR?

That said, I have owned numerous Rem 700 rifles that were in original walnut stocks (loved the old BDL/Varmint Special stocks) and really like the old Walnut 40Xb or 40Xbr stocks for informal bench and shooting prone or off a rest on a table, even a tripod. Pillar bed and go.

Put in a good trigger, or if you have the desire, a cleaned up Walker Remington trigger. (I would just clean and reuse the one you have personally).

Send it up to Jim Hart at Hart Rifle Barrels, Apulia NY. Have him put an 8 Twist 24 inch Sendero profile or similar on it and sally forth. When Hart does it they clean up the lugs and threads. I have never been disappointed in Jim's work.

Spend your money on a scope and lots of reloading supplies.

+1^^^
If you've had it since the 70's it's served you well and no point in changing. Keep the same caliber you have and call Hart's and have them put a new barrel on it and go over it while it's there. Geographically and monetarily makes the best sense to me anyway. Hart makes great barrels and they are great folks to deal with in my experience. JMHO. WD

 

[LuvDog]

Since its from the 70's is it in a nice wood stock?

If it is, I wouldn't want to do much to it. I'd rebarrel in 243 or 260 with a modern/fast twist and a heavier contour.

If you really want to go all out, then sell it and get an Origin action

 

[jelenko]

chassis

Chassis is definitely an alternative to bedding.
If a chassis were attractive to you, you might first get an estimate on bedding and do your pros/cons vs a chassis.

On the option of having the trigger worked on. Depends on the cost of the work. And, my $300 figure is more than what you would need to get a trigger in the 1# - 2# area.

 

[urbanrifleman]

I would love to sell you a prefit nut barrel, but I have to admit, if I had one of those old classic Remington's, I would put it back the way it was... or not touch it.

 

[Tesoro]

Reference comments above: why is a quality non shouldered pre-fit barrel not expected to shoot as precisely as a shouldered barrel?

 

[jelenko]

Reference comments above: why is a quality non shouldered pre-fit barrel not expected to shoot as precisely as a shouldered barrel?

And, to confirm, a forum member did an apples to apples comparison and found no difference in accuracy between a shouldered and nutted barrel on a barrel that shot, as I remember, in the 2's.

 

[Tesoro]

And, to confirm, a forum member did an apples to apples comparison and found no difference in accuracy between a shouldered and nutted barrel on a barrel that shot, as I remember, in the 2's.

I think the main diff is not having to chuck your barrel 2x to take off .5 tho at a time to get your desired headspace!
Match barrel of course and not for a pretty stock inletted for a specific contour.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

For 1/2 MOA:
I like remage also. Cost will be less than $400 including the tools needed. [You can put the barrel in vise jaws from Brownells and screw on the action.]
Stock remington action [i.e., no work done on the action] with a good barrel [e.g., one from Urbanrifleman], a reasonable trigger in a solid stock [your current stock should be bedded].

Not bushing the firing pin hole is NOT going to keep you from getting 1/2 MOA.

Net: Barrel: $400
Trigger: $300
Bedding: Not sure, but I think $800 would cover it - maybe someone would comment.

I used, a Criterion "RemAge" 24", .705 dia. Muzzle, Heavy "Sporter" bbl., .104 Free Bore, 1-7.5 twist, 24 inch = 9.5 Pounds, in 6 XC, Tubb, Version ONE, Forster Dies, Norma Brass, Rem 700 SS Short, Lefty action.
107 gr. SMK's in, the 2's 108 gr Bergers 3's,. shoots Everything SUB 1/2 MOA from, 80 grs,.. Up.
The 6XC gets great Barrel Life and, Feeds,.. Flawlessly !
If your .22-250 shot "Well" before, I'd just Add the Barrel, Bedding and a good Trigger,.. Done !
If you want to shoot, the Lighter Varmint Bullets,.. go 1-9 Twist, IMO
Good Luck with, your Choice !

 

[Tesoro]

I used, a Criterion "RemAge" 24", .705 dia. Muzzle, Heavy "Sporter" bbl., .104 Free Bore, 1-7.5 twist, 24 inch = 9.5 Pounds, in 6 XC, Tubb, Version ONE, Forster Dies, Norma Brass, Rem 700 SS Short, Lefty action.
107 gr. SMK's in, the 2's 108 gr Bergers 3's,. shoots Everything SUB 1/2 MOA from, 80 grs Up.
Great Barrel Life and, Feeds,.. Flawlessly !

I just got 2 new barrels: one a Brux 6mm and a Criterion 3O cal. I'm no barrel pro but the Criterion bore looks much nicer than the Brux, and my other 6mm Kreiger (when new) . I have only shot the Brux so far (10x) and 2/3 of the way down the bore was smeared with copper in a 6 in section. Took major JB work to remove. Hope it dosen't come back!! Is there any truth to 'shooting out the high spots'? hah

 

[urbanrifleman]

Reference comments above: why is a quality non shouldered pre-fit barrel not expected to shoot as precisely as a shouldered barrel?

Anyone who says that doesn't know what they are talking about.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

@ Ralph L.,..
When choosing a Cartridge, make "Sure" that,.. it's NOT to Long for your Short Action, so it Feeds,.. "Well" !
And think about, "Your" desired, Uses,..
I wouldn't bother with, "Truing" that action, to make a TRUE, Bench Rest, Rifle ( Too much Money ) and probably, would NOT be, "Competitive",.. when done, anyway !,... IMO
The "Heavy Sporter" contour barrel with, the .705 Muzzle dia. should Fit, your Stock, just fine.

 

[Webster]

Just starting to think about this, so I probably lack answers to a lot of questions that may come.

I have a short action Rem 700 ADL in 22-250 with a sporter barrel that I purchased around 1970. I have never been fond of the lightweight barrel, but otherwise like the rifle, so I kept it. Finally, it is ready for a new barrel. (No idea how many rounds, but I cannot come close to reaching the lands with the light bullets that this rifle likes.)

I would like to keep the action and make a good shooting rifle out of it. Probably in 22-250, 243, 7MM-08 or 308. It will be a range toy limited to 600 yds. I do not shoot competitively. I really have no budget in mind but am currently thinking around $1500. (not including optics) if possible. I know I need a stock or chassis, barrel, and trigger.

My question is what else should I consider? Bolt work? Any work on the action? ETC? Scrap this idea and buy a new rifle?

Edit to add: By good shooter, I am thinking consistent 1/2 MOA.

I would buy a top brand barrel in a 6BR or 6 BRX. Unfortunitley if you buy a varmint wt. barrel you need the barrel chanel opened up. Someone on this website might comment on how good a custom sporter wt. barrel might shoot. Get the twist for the wt. bullet you want to shoot. I don't think it's worth putting all the money into it that you are talking about. A new stock, trigger, bushing the FP, ect. probably won't make it shoot better.

I have a Rem 700 BDL Varmint wt. barrel I purchased for about $130 in 1969. I now have a Kreiger 6BR 14 Twist 24" barrel on it for light bullets. 1975 Unertl Ultra Varmint scope, glass bedded around 1975 for about $40, Jewell trigger. Never bushed the FP. I don't think it's necessaary. It shoots under .400" with just about any load. A few groups in the 1's shooting off a bipod thats 50 YO. I think the most important thing is to buy a barrel from a manufacturer that's popular in serious competition. I like the following brands, Kreiger, Brux, Bartlein and a few others. Hart and Shilen should be pretty good. If I lost this rifle I think it would cost about $3000 to replace it with new similar parts.

Also have a Rem 700 ADL Varmint Model with a tupper ware junk stock. Bought it for $500 at Caballa. Put a scope on it and a Kreiger 14TW 22" Varmint wt. barrel. No other changes, It easily shoots under .400" with my average skills. I would really like a custom stock on this rifle but iI'm not willing to spent the money. I don't get out like I used to because of back surgery.

Both rifles were bought for GH hunting. My bottom line is don't pour money into it if it shoots OK. Try it with a great barrel then decide what may make it better. After a barrel I would concider bedding the action and making sure there is clearance between the barrel and stock.

 

[DumpHollow]

why not go with a 223? Brass is abundant and its a cheap round to shoot

The 22-250 has a 0473” bolt face. How does that work with the 223 0.378” rim? He would be into a bolt replacement and at that point, sell the gun and go custom.