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This Rifle won't Shoot! Diagnosing the issue(s).

Well, I was able to test a ladder of H335 with the new 20 gr Flat Base Hollow Point Varmageddon bullets, hoping this would be the missing mojo, to get to small groups. The results were disappointing, to say the least. Next step, probably go to my local gunsmith, bring my targets and load data, see what he's got to say. I'm out of patience and solutions, need a new set of eyes on the problem. I'm hoping he has a 17 caliber compatible borescope.

20 Varm H335.jpg
 
Well, I was able to test a ladder of H335 with the new 20 gr Varmageddon bullets, hoping this would be the missing mojo, to get to small groups. The results were disappointing, to say the least. Next step, probably go to my local gunsmith, bring my targets and load data, see what he's got to say. I'm out of patience and solutions, need a new set of eyes on the problem. I'm hoping he has a 17 caliber compatible borescope.

View attachment 1680649
The Varmageddon is a long bullet! What other 20 grain bullets have you tried?
 
The Varmageddon is a long bullet! What other 20 grain bullets have you tried?
No, the flat base HP version is under .5 inches, one of the only ones I could find that are short and light.
Of the bullets I have on hand, here are the lengths, I have not shot them all, but was hoping:
Hornady 25 gr FB tipped Vmax - .669
Hornady 15.5 gr NTX BT Tipped - .598
Hornady 20 gr FB Tipped Vmax - .590
Hammet 25 gr BT HP - .580
Hornady 25 gr FB HP - .564
Berger 25 gr FB Varmint HP - .561
Nosler 20 gr Varmageddon FB HP - .495
Varmint Nightmare 20 gr FB HP - .486
 
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No, the flat base HP version is under .5 inches, one of the only ones I could find that are short and light.
Of the bullets I have on hand, here are the lengths, I have not shot them all, but was hoping:
Hornady 25 gr FB tipped Vmax - .669
Hornady 15.5 gr NTX BT Tipped - .598
Hornady 20 gr FB Tipped Vmax - .590
Hammet 25 gr BT HP - .580
Hornady 25 gr FB HP - .564
Berger 25 gr FB Varmint HP - .561
Nosler 20 gr Varmageddon FB HP - .495
Varmint Nightmare 20 gr FB HP - .486
Try the 20 grain Vmax. I know that one shoots well in mine.
 
I don't know if anyone else has mentioned this since I haven't taken time to read all of this, but I'd slug the barrel to see if there is a significant loose spot near the crown.
 
I'm actually learning from this process. It's the first XP-100 action I've dealt with, and my only other Remington is an early 700 hunting rifle in 30-06. This is the most trouble I've had with a rifle, and it's because it's used, and I don't know what's wrong.

I talked to the owner on the phone, a member here on AS. He sent me photos, and I had the details, so I sent him my money. But, he actually passed away before he shipped it, and his friend stepped in for his widow, and sent it, a few weeks after I paid for it, so it's been problematic for a while now.

I have learned how to make 17M4 brass from Lake City, like I do for my 20 Vartarg, but with even more difficulty involved. Learned how to remove the firing pin and ejector, to find the lands.

So, it's just frustrating it has some sort of major problem causing it to shoot erratic, and hopefully I'll be able to get that solved, with help from my gunsmith, or a buddy close by, but it's not a total loss. It's been interesting to have this thread, and get a lot of comments, most are good and people here are helpful, a nice community of fellow shooters.
 
((((Consider all the factory rifles that have no bedding at all. There is no way poor bedding can cause the extreme accuracy issues he's having.))) THIS IS TRUE , but you know he will never get the accuracy that he wants with out the gun bedded right !!
 
((((Consider all the factory rifles that have no bedding at all. There is no way poor bedding can cause the extreme accuracy issues he's having.))) THIS IS TRUE , but you know he will never get the accuracy that he wants with out the gun bedded right !!
I dont know about that on factory rifles, my nephews Rem 700 SPS unbedded 22-250 started doing exactly what the OP's is doing so I pillar bedded it in a laminated Boyds stock now its literally 1 hole gun
 
Did anyone in this thread mention trimming that case back a bit?
I've been thinking about your comment.
The guy that sent me the rifle ended up sending some fired brass to me, I just got it today. And it's older Remington, probably shot 20 years ago, so it's oxidized. That made me notice something. Here's a couple photos of the rim of the necks on that old RP brass, there's dents and shiny areas.

Case Necks1.jpg
Case Necks2.jpg

And here's the tops of some brass I made, and shot today, same scarring, dents, shiny spots

Case Necks3.jpg

So, I'm wondering if the neck cut in the chamber has some material that is hitting the rims of the necks, leaving these marks? And, if so, I would think that would impact the accuracy.

Might trimming the brass, to bring clearance to these obstructions, be the right move? Or what?
 
I've been thinking about your comment.
The guy that sent me the rifle ended up sending some fired brass to me, I just got it today. And it's older Remington, probably shot 20 years ago, so it's oxidized. That made me notice something. Here's a couple photos of the rim of the necks on that old RP brass, there's dents and shiny areas.

View attachment 1680936
View attachment 1680937

And here's the tops of some brass I made, and shot today, same scarring, dents, shiny spots

View attachment 1680938

So, I'm wondering if the neck cut in the chamber has some material that is hitting the rims of the necks, leaving these marks? And, if so, I would think that would impact the accuracy.

Might trimming the brass, to bring clearance to these obstructions, be the right move? Or what?
Those dents and shiny marks are normal if the ejector is installed in the bolt on an XP100. it is caused because the ejector is putting upward pressure on the case and when ejecting, it will drag itself across the top of the chamber making the dents and bright spot.
 
Those dents and shiny marks are normal if the ejector is installed in the bolt on an XP100. it is caused because the ejector is putting upward pressure on the case and when ejecting, it will drag itself across the top of the chamber making the dents and bright spot.
If I wanted to verify correct trim length, would I just remove the ejector / spring?
 
If I wanted to verify correct trim length, would I just remove the ejector / spring?
Do that and use something like a Sinclair chamber length gauge on a trimmed piece of brass.


 
CZ kid. You are in Bend Or. Nosler is in Bend 0r too. l have been to the plant many yrs ago. They have helped me in the past. They seem to be making rifles now. Have you reached out to them?

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