I didn't read all 8 pages in this thread but I have a 17-222 that will not stabilize a 25 grain bullet. It shoots good with 20 grains and under.
The Varmageddon is a long bullet! What other 20 grain bullets have you tried?Well, I was able to test a ladder of H335 with the new 20 gr Varmageddon bullets, hoping this would be the missing mojo, to get to small groups. The results were disappointing, to say the least. Next step, probably go to my local gunsmith, bring my targets and load data, see what he's got to say. I'm out of patience and solutions, need a new set of eyes on the problem. I'm hoping he has a 17 caliber compatible borescope.
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No, the flat base HP version is under .5 inches, one of the only ones I could find that are short and light.The Varmageddon is a long bullet! What other 20 grain bullets have you tried?
Try the 20 grain Vmax. I know that one shoots well in mine.No, the flat base HP version is under .5 inches, one of the only ones I could find that are short and light.
Of the bullets I have on hand, here are the lengths, I have not shot them all, but was hoping:
Hornady 25 gr FB tipped Vmax - .669
Hornady 15.5 gr NTX BT Tipped - .598
Hornady 20 gr FB Tipped Vmax - .590
Hammet 25 gr BT HP - .580
Hornady 25 gr FB HP - .564
Berger 25 gr FB Varmint HP - .561
Nosler 20 gr Varmageddon FB HP - .495
Varmint Nightmare 20 gr FB HP - .486
I already did, for now I'm not sure what I'll do with it, other than ask my gunsmith what the heck he can find to explain how it shoots, then go from there... the action and stock are nice, it's got good bones for another build.Try the 20 grain Vmax. I know that one shoots well in mine.
When you figure out problem childs you actually learn something.I’m thinking like a few others. That rifle needs a new home! That thing is going to be a “problem child”
From what BoydAllen said and referenced, it sounded like the way they are put together could be part of or the problem.the action and stock are nice
I dont know about that on factory rifles, my nephews Rem 700 SPS unbedded 22-250 started doing exactly what the OP's is doing so I pillar bedded it in a laminated Boyds stock now its literally 1 hole gun((((Consider all the factory rifles that have no bedding at all. There is no way poor bedding can cause the extreme accuracy issues he's having.))) THIS IS TRUE , but you know he will never get the accuracy that he wants with out the gun bedded right !!
I've been thinking about your comment.Did anyone in this thread mention trimming that case back a bit?
Those dents and shiny marks are normal if the ejector is installed in the bolt on an XP100. it is caused because the ejector is putting upward pressure on the case and when ejecting, it will drag itself across the top of the chamber making the dents and bright spot.I've been thinking about your comment.
The guy that sent me the rifle ended up sending some fired brass to me, I just got it today. And it's older Remington, probably shot 20 years ago, so it's oxidized. That made me notice something. Here's a couple photos of the rim of the necks on that old RP brass, there's dents and shiny areas.
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And here's the tops of some brass I made, and shot today, same scarring, dents, shiny spots
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So, I'm wondering if the neck cut in the chamber has some material that is hitting the rims of the necks, leaving these marks? And, if so, I would think that would impact the accuracy.
Might trimming the brass, to bring clearance to these obstructions, be the right move? Or what?
If I wanted to verify correct trim length, would I just remove the ejector / spring?Those dents and shiny marks are normal if the ejector is installed in the bolt on an XP100. it is caused because the ejector is putting upward pressure on the case and when ejecting, it will drag itself across the top of the chamber making the dents and bright spot.
Do that and use something like a Sinclair chamber length gauge on a trimmed piece of brass.If I wanted to verify correct trim length, would I just remove the ejector / spring?