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Things you wish you knew F-TR and F-class

What is the meaning of Creedmoor? I have heard it said a few times at matches when there was a tie.
Creed's moor where Long Range shooting began in the US. It is shot at 800-900 & 1000 yards.. Was originally shot with Black Powder cartridges and paper patch bullets. Go to the US Library of Congress and down load Edwin Perry's book Modern Observations in Long Range Shooting 1880 edition. Perry only had one arm and was a fantastic shot. He had to muzzle load his rifle as he could not reload due to the loss of his arm. In the back of the book they show select targets from some of the Shooters. Jackson and Sumner were very good shooters..
 
If I remember it correctly, Its to break a tie, goes to the person who finished shooting first.
Being "Creedmoored" has nothing to do with who finished shooting before another shooter. For example, two shooters tie, with with identical scores and X count. If a shooter finishes with an X, and the other shooter finishes with a 10, the other guy wins the tie.
John
 
Being "Creedmoored" has nothing to do with who finished shooting before another shooter. For example, two shooters tie, with with identical scores and X count. If a shooter finishes with an X, and the other shooter finishes with a 10, the other guy wins the tie.
John
So it goes on more X's. Got it. Thanks for clearing it up
 
During a 600 yard f class Match I cross fired an X on my neighbor's target. Shortly after he returned the favor and shot an X on mine. I nudged him for the win that day. But to be honest the Competition wasn't very stiff that day.
 
If shooting on a range with target pits, definitely learn to be efficient and expedient at pulling/marking targets. I had a match where the guy pulling for me was very new and would take 30-60+ seconds after each shot. RSO/MD actually came over as my score keeper was cursing the target pits and I was running out of time. He allowed me to finish my last 3 rounds after the clock. It was very frustrating! He also would not match the scoring disc to the spotter, leading to much confusion and rescoring several times during a string.
 
I've shot several T/R NR's and won state matches with a TL3 single shot. I've got that and a Kelbly Atlas single shot. As far as accuracy it's going to be as good as any other action with a good barrel and chamber.

The only 2 things about it don't like are when loading a .308 20-200x as long as we do, you cannot eject a loaded round during a check fire because the mechanical ejector stops the bolt and you can't release it. I kept a hooked tool handy to pull the extractor free to release the bullet so I could get it out. Pretty minor inconvenience though. The other is with the floating bolt head I can't use the "wheeler method" to find my touch point. Once the firing pin spring is removed the bolt wants to fall apart so I can't drop the bolt to find touch. I've tried to tape the bolt head pin to the bolt but never have had luck. I've always managed to make it work but load development takes a little effort without knowing a true touch measurement.
I have been shooting F-class T/R and Open with 2 Zermatt single shots for about 2.5 years. Shot T/R only with a cleaned up R700 that used to be my LR sling rifle for about 6 years before that. I chose the Zermatts because they were readily available and they are a R700 pattern platform. That meant I could start with the many stocks and triggers I had on hand. I also liked the flexibility to swap bolt heads. I have complete confidence in them, was familiar with BAT, Barnard and others. Just went with Zermatt for the above reasons.

My gunsmith is Alex Wheeler and he recommended that he adjust the timing on the actions the first time he had them. Not knowing nearly as much as Alex I agreed to let him do it, one time expense. Also know that the TPI on the Zermatts is 20 TPI instead of the the more popular 16 TPI, so your gunsmith will need your action in hand to fit a barrel or until they make a special 20 TPI fixture.

Flintcreek, I completely agree with your first point as both mine are SA. I also keep a little tool handy to pry the round off the extractor and pull out the bolt when removing a loaded round. Especially true for my Open 284 Win rifle.

Kind of confused by your second point though. I have used Alex's method to find touch 5-6 times, taking care to confirm a touch at least 3-4 more times. I agree it's tricky to feel it with the floating bolt head but I think I'm getting good results. Not wanting to hijack this thread I'd like to cover this further through PM if you have the time. Thanks
 
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