Teach me something about moly plating...
- Thread starter 22DASHER
- Start date
Dans40X
Welder
Clean projo's to ensure there isn't any residual lube from drawing jackets.
(solvent or untreated corn cob tumbled for 1hr in a dedicated drum)
I run a modified NECO process thru an RCBS Sidewinder drum tumbler.
A moly treated dedicated drum w/ 3Lb/21000gr of projo's is tumbled for 2hrs @70+ degrees.
I use Dupont Scientific Grade Moly-approximately 1/2 of a 9x19 Par/Luger pistol case of moly by volume per batch.
Drum is emptied into a dedicated stainless steel colander to separate hardened shot from projo's
Excess moly is buffed off projo's by pouring them from colander into a cut-off sweatshirt sleeve,both ends closed off & tilted back & forth a couple times before pouring projo's into a sealed plastic dedicated/labeled container.
I don't "seal" bullets after moly peening w/ Carnuba Wax unless the projo's are going thru a hunting rig.
If waxing is in order,I'll run the dedicated wax drum for 20-30 minutes to raise the internal temps of the hardened shot to 80+ degrees,assisted w/ a 1500 watt hair drier & verified w/ digital thermometer.
Some individuals attempt wet tumble projo's encased in pill bottles in a vibratory tumbler.
It's a peening process not a plating process!
(solvent or untreated corn cob tumbled for 1hr in a dedicated drum)
I run a modified NECO process thru an RCBS Sidewinder drum tumbler.
A moly treated dedicated drum w/ 3Lb/21000gr of projo's is tumbled for 2hrs @70+ degrees.
I use Dupont Scientific Grade Moly-approximately 1/2 of a 9x19 Par/Luger pistol case of moly by volume per batch.
Drum is emptied into a dedicated stainless steel colander to separate hardened shot from projo's
Excess moly is buffed off projo's by pouring them from colander into a cut-off sweatshirt sleeve,both ends closed off & tilted back & forth a couple times before pouring projo's into a sealed plastic dedicated/labeled container.
I don't "seal" bullets after moly peening w/ Carnuba Wax unless the projo's are going thru a hunting rig.
If waxing is in order,I'll run the dedicated wax drum for 20-30 minutes to raise the internal temps of the hardened shot to 80+ degrees,assisted w/ a 1500 watt hair drier & verified w/ digital thermometer.
Some individuals attempt wet tumble projo's encased in pill bottles in a vibratory tumbler.
It's a peening process not a plating process!
Yes, and some of us do it in an inexpensive rotary rock tumbler. No offense, but your dry method strikes me as both tedious and potentially messy. Plus, it requires quite a bit of dedicated equipment. I think the "wet" method is the only way to go. Here's how I do it.
I de-grease 100 or 150 (depending on caliber) raw bullets in a bucket along with a spritz of Simple Green, but I imagine any de-greasing process will work as well. I swish them around for a few seconds. Then dump in a tea kettle of boiling water and swish around for a few more seconds after which I wash off the cleaner with fresh water.
Rather than contaminate my Harbor Freight (or any other) rotary tumbling canisters, I use an applesauce jug. It's plastic with a round profile near the top and bottom but with a hand grip molded into the middle, so it tumbles brass or bullets quite well. It also has a wide mouth and, if you like eating applesauce, it's free.
I put the bullets in the jar along with a small amount of moly powder; about the amount which will fit on a medium flat blade screwdriver......... 1/8 tsp?. Then I add the saved "juice" from my last process which I store in an empty 1lb powder jug. It just covers the bullets. No BBs or anything else except the bullets, moly powder, and tap water.
I tumble for 90 minutes and then strain the used moly slurry back into the powder jug using a tea strainer. The bullets go into a sieve or colander and get a short fresh water rinse. Of course, all this is best done in a utility sink. The black "juice" is pretty horrible, but easily manageable if you work near a sink, especially one with a kitchen style spray nozzle. There is no dust and all the mess is easily washed down the drain. The only dedicated moly-specific equipment is the apple sauce tumbling jug and the "juice" storage jug; both were free.
The rinsed bullets go into a baking pan lined with several layers of paper towels. I shake them back and forth to dry and polish them. Hardly any moly comes off because any excess has already been washed down the drain.
Next I exchange the wet paper towels for a couple layers of fresh dry ones and give the bullets a blast with a heat gun for one minute as I shake the pan to roll the bullets around. This will drive tiny droplets out of the hollow point as evidenced by tiny black dots on the paper towel. I let the bullets cool and then hit them with the heat gun again to be sure they're completely dry.
At this point the bullets are dry and shiny and ready to load. The coating is perfect and will not rub off or contaminate your fingers. It's important to realize that it's unnecessary to individually handle any of these bullets except to examine one or two under high magnification so you can admire your handy work and complement yourself on a new batch of flawlessly coated bullets. Each one is perfect and no hand polishing is required. This is not always true with some "dry coated" moly bullets I've seen some of my fellow competitors make.
I feel so strongly about the "wet method" that if someone told me I could only moly coat using the "dry" method, I would stop using moly bullets.
Jason Boersma
Silver $$ Contributor
Matt, I shoot moly with my dasher and it does clean up a lot easier and I use the dry method and I have no mess at all.
Most of my barrels clean with just a wet patch or two with soaking in between. After my gun is clean and dry, I dry the chamber and put the bore guide back in, then I run a patch with (4drops)Marvel Mystery oil on through. I was just wondering what the differences are on accuracy and velocity. Matt
There's a huge difference. The Moly coated bullets are a nice shiny charcoal grey color. People pass by your shooting station, glance at your bullets, and say something like, "Wow...... cool ammo". They never do that with ordinary copper bullets.
Jason Boersma
Silver $$ Contributor
Velocity is less, so you add more powder to get back to the velocity you want. Accuracy is the same as bare bullets.
Who was one of the first shooters to make the "moly" bullet popular?
Ben
Ben
+ 1 on the wet method, afterward I now heat them for 30 minutes at 250 to be sure the water is evaporated from the hollow points after finding copper oxide stains on some of the bullets that had been stored. After fouling out during the late relays of a varmint silhouette match, I now use moly coated bullets for matches that have more than 40 rounds. I believe it might take a few shots to settle in, but fouling won't be a problem for over 100 rounds, possibly longer.
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You all must be too young to remember....it was the Long Ranger
mikegaiz
Stay frosty, my friend.
I have used molly for years, and still do, it really works. Having said that The new wet molly application is much better than the old method and easier and cleaner. It takes more powder to get the same velocity using molly. Now I only use molly for hunting varmints. I have a .243 shooting molly bullets and ball powder with over 5000 (yes 5000) rounds that will still shoot under one in. groups at 100 yds. I have several guns with over 3000 rounds so far and show no wear. It is accurate, but have never got it to work for BR competition. I feel it is the course of fire that is the issue. I think it will work for cross course shooters however.
James, I like many others tried molly years ago. The
problem that I ran into was a build up just at the
beginning of the lands. It was not a matter of
proper cleaning. It was very difficult to remove. Then,
I heard about HBN or Danzac. No build up & in most
cases the first round out of a cold barrel will be where
it should be. No shooting the barrel back in. We each
are creatures of habit & have our own ideas. After I
have completed cleaning my barrel I run a wet patch
of Lock Ease down the barrel. Does it help ? In my mind
it does & thats what matters, "Confidence". I think the
Danzac makes the barrels clean easier, & last longer.
I have a 40X 222 Mag Improved that I have 3 barrels
for. After shooting the first barrel several thousand rounds
in the PD Fields it still shoots very accurately & has little
to no throat wear. I still have two extra barrels & have
now quit PD Hunting (at least for now). I Danzac coat
every bullet I shoot. I have never shot a barrel out yet.
Of course like everything else one needs to use some
common sense & not get your barrels too hot.
problem that I ran into was a build up just at the
beginning of the lands. It was not a matter of
proper cleaning. It was very difficult to remove. Then,
I heard about HBN or Danzac. No build up & in most
cases the first round out of a cold barrel will be where
it should be. No shooting the barrel back in. We each
are creatures of habit & have our own ideas. After I
have completed cleaning my barrel I run a wet patch
of Lock Ease down the barrel. Does it help ? In my mind
it does & thats what matters, "Confidence". I think the
Danzac makes the barrels clean easier, & last longer.
I have a 40X 222 Mag Improved that I have 3 barrels
for. After shooting the first barrel several thousand rounds
in the PD Fields it still shoots very accurately & has little
to no throat wear. I still have two extra barrels & have
now quit PD Hunting (at least for now). I Danzac coat
every bullet I shoot. I have never shot a barrel out yet.
Of course like everything else one needs to use some
common sense & not get your barrels too hot.
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Dang, and all these years I thought it was Bob Seger.
I'd love to try Tungsten Disulfide, but only if I can apply it using the same "wet method" I use with Moly. Have you tried Danzac wet or do you apply it dry?
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