• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Scope Leveling

I use a small 'line level', the type used to level a concrete form or grade between 2 stakes. I attach the level to a 1/4 inch piece of 'key stock'. Using a magnet attach the level 90 degrees to the barrel on the bolt rails or the scope bases, where ever it will fit level. Level the rifle right to left. I use Newlon ? scope levels built into the scope turrets. Rifles level, cross hair's level, tighten in a round robin order. Check the verticle if needed by observing a string and plumb bob. I'm not a bench rest or super fussy target shooter, I shoot gophers and P.D,s sometimes way out there.
 
The problem with every one of these scope mounting gizmos is that I would not trust them to be dead on, because it is so common for a rifle to have slight misalignments in the receiver, base and/or rings. The whole point of getting your scope level is to not have a built-in windage error when you crank up for long range. I would have to verify with the Tall Target Test anyway (or, shoot at 1,000 yards if there was ever such thing as a dead calm minute across the entire range).

If I am going to have to do the TT Test anyway, I figure I may as well just get right to it.

My "plumb-bob" is an old pipe fitting tied to a string, and my targets are essentially free.

Close to zero cost, minimal time and I know I got it right.
 
https://arisakadefense.com/products/optic-leveler

If your rail is level to the bore. Just don't tighten it down if this thing is snug underneath it.

This little gadget works great. No worries even if your rifle isn't level. I used it yesterday to install a NF benchrest. I install all my scopes with it.

Another gadget for installing scopes I like are alignment bars. I usually lap my rings but yesterday I installed the ultralight NF rings and this Is the first time I have ever seen those two pointy ends touch perfectly.

 
You need to dial in around 30moa and see if it tracks a plumb line.
Otherwise you may just be leveling your system with that flashlight based on a reticle that was manufactured at some plus or minus of plumb. There is a tolerance there.
 
https://arisakadefense.com/products/optic-leveler

If your rail is level to the bore. Just don't tighten it down if this thing is snug underneath it.
This type of system works great...

Remember that the flat section on the bottom of the scope, underneath the turrets, is perfectly square to the crosshairs.

I use the above system on any rifle with a one piece rail.
For 2 piece base set-ups, I use the Wheeler system that clamps to the barrel.
 
I install a anticant level on my scope mounted dead plumb with the scope crosshair. That's a good starting point. Now the trick is to find a horizontal flat spot on your action. Level the scope to the action, using anticant level and a small level on the action.
 
Last edited:
I just purchased the wheeler lapping kit and the wheeler level the one that attaches to barrel and you can adjust to match the action. Worked pretty good.
 
Starrett adjustable parallels. That's the best tools I have found to work the best. And that's what I use. Pricey, but can be could used on eBay for lesser price.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,582
Messages
2,198,740
Members
78,989
Latest member
Yellowhammer
Back
Top