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Scope leveling concern

I've been bedding scope bases to correct receiver issues and provide for stress free scope mounting for a couple decades. A stress free mounting system pays off in many ways and correctly fitting bases are where you start.

Good shootin' :) -Al
Check out Ken Ferrell’s scope base mounting instructions,
Also Murphy Precision mounting instructions.
Not all receivers, bedding jobs are created equal.
I’ve had bedded bases and scope rings on my benchrest guns for a long time. This includes heavy guns that are mounted in a barrel block.

Waverly
 
My issue with this type of bandaid, (something used to cover up improper machining) is how most people comprehend it, and the inferior materials most use to accomplish it. Compounded with the ease at which any of the bedding compound can contaminate the precious space in the female thread space and creat even greater problems.

I have never built a rifle and asked my Smith to cut such a corner. But I can see how protecting the holes with the female threads, and using a proper compound, to do no more than fill a void, with full contact where possible could make a temporary repair.
When dealing with a production action, this is the kind of thing that's routine to check and correct. It's pretty common to see the rear bridge height incorrect and the base screw holes not in line....and combinations of both. You simply deal with it in whatever method it takes to give a permanent repair. If that means the base(s) are customized to that action...so be it. The epoxies used to correct base height issues is the same type of epoxies used to glue in actions to the stock so any concerns about longevity don't apply.

Even the great custom actions aren't immune to this. Here's two examples of ones with very little base-to-receiver contact as can be seen by the marks of the bases. The blued one also shows the bedded and height corrected bases.
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This stainless one (black and white images) had the mfgs. one piece unitized CNC'd scopes mounts on it. Probably making 30% contact....at best.
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This little Interarms Mini of mine was a mess before squaring it away. All the holes were wonky for alignment and the rear bridge was tipped to the right and forward. After correcting the screw hole alignment and equalizing the base heights and lapping and bedding the rings, you can take any scope.....center the reticle with the w/e adjustments.....and the first shot will be within 1.5"-2" of the POA at 100 yards.
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Bedding bases and rings is the exact same concept as bedding an action in the stock. Why some look at it as some sort of voodoo hoodoo remains as one of accuracy shootings great mysteries.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
I received the new base today & as suspected, I still have the same issue.

Let me know if my plan is an acceptable fix. I’ve read several articles & watched a few YouTube videos on bedding the base & I feel like I can handle it. I want to make sure I’m going about it correct.

1. Apply Johnson’s Floor wax to the action and screw threads.

2. I have some Marine-Tex so I’ll mix some up an apply to the front and rear base pads.

3. Set the base on the action then insert & snug the rear screws. Check level front & rear. If good, I’ll insert the two front screws and tighten to the point the bubble just starts to move and back off slightly.

4. After curing, install the base and torque to manufactures recommendation. Check level and hopefully everything is good to go.

If I’m going about it wrong, please let me know.

I appreciate everyone’s help on this.
 
Thanks, unfortunately I don’t have the skill to do any bedding. I’m going to try another base.
Bedding a rail doesn’t take any skill because I do it — to level up the rail from front to rear, as you noted. I use JB weld and apply Johnson paste wax to the screws and screw holes so they aren’t permanently attached. Just snug the screws, wipe off excess, then let it set up and cure. I think there are videos on YouTube that I went from.
 
When you apply the wax let it dry for 5-10 minutes then wipe it off/polish it then reapply and wipe it off again so it is shiny. You may also want to put a tiny bit of oil in the screw holes in case you get epoxy in them. Don't be alarmed if you can't get the base free after it cures as it will be stuck on there but it takes a gentle tap with a hammer to break it free. Heat from a heat gun or torch will also break it loose. I use carb cleaner to clean up, consider painters tape on the action to mask off everything except where the bases go.
 
Bedding compound and scope base threads are a bad idea, it's just asking for problems! A plumb bob, and centering the bore to the scope is 100% positive. The farther you can hang it for confirmation is better, then keep your vertical hair dead on it/ You can't get better than that!
I agree that some people should not be allowed to use tools, but for many of us, bedding a base is really no big deal. A twisted or bent base will cause misalignment between rings and stress on the action. Beyond that, I have see where a base did not make proper contact, and that allowed for movement, which degraded accuracy. Doing a proper job of bedding a base avoids all of that.
 
I agree that some people should not be allowed to use tools, but for many of us, bedding a base is really no big deal. A twisted or bent base will cause misalignment between rings and stress on the action. Beyond that, I have see where a base did not make proper contact, and that allowed for movement, which degraded accuracy. Doing a proper job of bedding a base avoids all of that.
Ever wonder why you had to LocTite your base screws? Base doesn't fit the action correctly. THAT'S why.
 

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