I shoot at 500 - 1000 yds enough to know that to be able to hit vitals at even 500 yards requires a very accurate rifle, scope, ammo and shooter, and probably a solid rest and very little wind. But, maybe you know all that.
First, I would drop zero-stop and instead plan to use Burris Signature rings, which will enable you to place the scope so that when you are sighted in at 100 yards (or whatever) your E turret is only a few MOA above rock bottom. That will be like having a zero stop that is set a few MOA below your zero -- always easy to find. That also leaves you with nearly all of your E turret's adjustment available for dialing up for very long range.
Second, FFP is cool because your reticle lines are always synched to your turrets, whereas with SFP they are synched only at one magnification (usually max). However, I hate having that FFP "ball of twine" in the middle of my picture when I am looking for game at low power. Go to a store and zoom both kinds and you will instantly see what I mean. I go with SFP and am perfectly happy.
FFP is great for plinking and some LR games, but hunting is different -- you're not going to be able to "shoot, miss, correct and shoot again," or else if you do it will too often be on a running target. You are instead going to have to put the FIRST SHOT in the vitals. That means you have to learn and write down your dial-ups for every possible distance you will be shooting, RF the animal, see that it is 550 yards, look at your chart and dial up whatever it says is right for 550 yards. FFP never comes into play, because you are going to be dialing up.
Locking turrets are nice I suppose, but I've never had one of my NF turrets get accidentally moved in the field -- they are too stiff (which is good). And, if there is any question I just LOOK at them and verify they are still zeroed. Of course, I set the turrets to zero once I am sighted in.
For big game hunting I usually go with the TOUGHEST, most difficult to BREAK scope made, which is NF. I get back in too far to deal with a broken reticle or something. I like the MOAR-T ("T" for target) reticle, but some friends have trouble seeing it. Then I'd go with a plain MOAR. You pick which NXS to want to carry. All the bigger ones are illuminated, which might come in handy. NXS glass is not quite as good as NF ED glass (in the ATACR's), or Leupold HD glass, but it is still great, plenty good enough for big game and have good "power to weight" ratio.
Let's see, what else?
