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SCHOOL ME --OPEN SIGHTS--IN COMPETITION

That target looks like you shot all but two from three different head positions.
My observation as well. Floating head. Get a good cheek weld in the middle and repeat it. I have added shoe insole material to a fixed stock to get more elevation. Looks wonky but I Zip tie the foam / fabric on the stock to get a little lift if I find I am looking at the bottom of the aperture. Has to be three round circles and a dot in the middle.
 
BINGO! You are exactly right! I was moving closer then further from the rear sight seeing what difference it made to my sight picture
Thanks!
If you get too far away the rear aperture will appear small enough you loose the housing of the front sight. Closer is better but even a .22 can leave a mark on your eyebrow if you stick it up there. There is a Goldilocks zone and I find it 1-2” behind the rear sight to my eyebrow.
 
If you get too far away the rear aperture will appear small enough you loose the housing of the front sight. Closer is better but even a .22 can leave a mark on your eyebrow if you stick it up there. There is a Goldilocks zone and I find it 1-2” behind the rear sight to my eyebrow.
This reminds me.
You also want your eye as close to the rear aperture so the aperture can be as small as possible and still be bright enough. As the aperture gets smaller, the depth of field increases so you can see the front sight and the target clearer.
 
What height rear base do you have on the rear, measured from the rifle mount hole to the sight mount hole ? And the height of the front sight base?
 
What height rear base do you have on the rear, measured from the rifle mount hole to the sight mount hole ? And the height of the front sight base?
Looks like roughly the rear mount measures .575 +- and the thickness of the front mounting block is +- .335
I have shorter front mounting blocks but nothing taller for the front

The adjustment settings on the rear seem centered in their travel with current set up
 

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Looks like roughly the rear mount measures .575 +- and the thickness of the front mounting block is +- .335
I have shorter front mounting blocks but nothing taller for the front

The adjustment settings on the rear seem centered in their travel with current set up
Now the next question. Are you lifting your head to see through the peep sight? or lowering? or neither and the sight is right where you eye wants to look when the head feels like it is were you want it??
 
THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK just in from morning testing--after all of the Great ideas and help from my fellow shooters on here --I got an adjustable rear iris--I went larger on my front aperture to a 3.4 Anschutz Contrast clear--I spent all day yesterday getting rear sight position right--I went back and forth , back and forth--so...go out this morning a chilly 28 degrees but bright sun on my target ( a BIG help) fouled fresh clean barrel --a few rounds to get my zero dead on and...WOW! Just shot this beauty! I am thrilled to say the least.
All of the help you guys offered worked --
I can't thank all of you enough for being Helpful and constructive I mean that..
Thanks
David
 

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THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
OK just in from morning testing--after all of the Great ideas and help from my fellow shooters on here --I got an adjustable rear iris--I went larger on my front aperture to a 3.4 Anschutz Contrast clear--I spent all day yesterday getting rear sight position right--I went back and forth , back and forth--so...go out this morning a chilly 28 degrees but bright sun on my target ( a BIG help) fouled fresh clean barrel --a few rounds to get my zero dead on and...WOW! Just shot this beauty! I am thrilled to say the least.
All of the help you guys offered worked --
I can't thank all of you enough for being Helpful and constructive I mean that..
Thanks
David
Wow, looks like ur on the right path. Welcome to the iron sight “ Rabbit Hole”!
Couple of thoughts: see if u can determine a method for consistent head position behind the rear sight. Something u can feel on ur face or cheek to establish a consistent head position.
Look up a company called “Beartooth” for a comb raising kit. It is a sleeve that slips over the Buttstock and has different height foam inserts. Poor man’s adjustable cheek piece. May help keep ur head elevation behind the rear sight.
If u find yourself shooting a bunch of 10s and few Xs , try a larger front aperture. I call that shooting “Donuts” around the X ring .
Bright sunny days, ( a lot of target glare) try a light gray filter to cut glare. The front aperture size, try going down .2 as the target looks smaller in bright light.
Overcast days, go up .2 or so on the front aperture size. The target looks larger in lower light conditions.
Like I said, “Rabbit Hole”. Good luck n have fun learning.
 
OK Reporting In on Progress
First--there is no way I could do this without the response and help from you guys!
I put a variable iris on the rear--After using it this week there is No Way I could do this in the different lighting conditions without it--just no way--That was Number One the best advice so far
Next being--Keep my head in Exact same spot every time
I put a piece on the stock to aid in head placement--just a 1 inch wide piece of thin yoga mat held in place with horse vet tape--It is working great and solved the issue of groups hitting in different Points of impact.
Next was use of larger front aperture--in general I started with a 3.0 and 3.2 but have wound up with 3.8 for low light and 3.6 in bright light The larger white border around the bull seems counterintuitive but it Works for my eyes.
Another interesting situation is I am using Anschutz Contrast Clear apertures with the hard insert for the black part--they do offer a Very Crisp edge to the actual black ring-however--they are a loose fit in the little tube that holds them in the Redfield Olympic front sight--So...when I change front aperture disc my point of inpact changes as much as an inch or two with every swap forcing me to use up ammo and time to re zero--not a big deal but I could see where that would be a royal PIA at an actual match.
At first I thought it was different speeds of ammo causing the POI shift and thought man that is a lot of shift but today when testing and only changing the apertures I realized it was the sloppy fit of the disc in the actual sight--It locks in place after it is tight but has enough slop that it winds up a tad different every time I swap
So...I have come a Long way in a week and half. I am ready for my first match in January--It will be indoors so I am hoping the lights will be strong--In Bright light this is pretty easy--In cloudy or dull light it is very difficult no matter what you do.
I would encourage any rimfire shooter to give aperture sights a try--It has proven to be a Massive new challenge ( and rabbit hole for sure) but has been a blast so far--a whole new set of skills to develop.

Again--THANKS to all that have chipped in with constructive tips and advice
David
 

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