Hey guys. I'm kinda asking for some info for a friend. He has a savage model 10 and has kinda thought about building it up and I just don't have enough knowledge to give him any advice. What is the savage 'standard' action, their main action - like a remington's main action is the 700 - what is savage's equivalent to remington's 700? or are they all the same action just different models (varmint, sporter etc?
School me on some savages
- Thread starter potatoe
- Start date
Tater, he has the equivalent of a 700 SA in Savage. Many options are available however do a cost analysis then proceed.
Thanks for info, what are done con's when building one as compared to the 700 - besides the lack of after market parts? You could use a pm if ya want
Good advice.Go look at savageshootersdotcom for more info about your options as someone has probably already done it over there.
There are 2 trigger options that I am aware of.
A few stock options.
And several barrel options.
Trigger options will depend if its a top bolt release or bottom bolt release (fewer options). A top bolt release can be fitted with a Rifle Basix SAV-2, SAV-1, Sharp Shooter Supply (getting hard to find), Timney. The newer bottom bolt release is limited to either the RIfle Basix SAV-1 or the Timney trigger. They both are a improved factory trigger (non Accutrigger) more or less. Prefit barrels can be purchased from a few vendors.
After market stocks are avaibile along with a chassis systems. No vendors come to mind right now and I am too lazy to look them up.
After market stocks are avaibile along with a chassis systems. No vendors come to mind right now and I am too lazy to look them up.
Stocks are Bell and Carlson, Hogue (those two have a full bedding block option) Richards, Stocky's and some others. Make sure you order for the right bolt release and spacing.
FWIW, in the older Savages, the 110 will show up the most in my experience.
Also, fwiw, .532 bolt heads are available also.
As to the question of cost:
B and C bedding block stock-300, trigger-100-300 depending, barrel- 200 up, avg 325 won't be too far off, IMO you'll want a new recoil lug also-25-50, plus what you spend on the donor. Tools you can find a Savage guy and borrow or you at least need a barrel nut wrench, barrel vise and, again IMO,an action wrench. Wheeler makes good ones. Then go/no go etc.
FWIW, in the older Savages, the 110 will show up the most in my experience.
Also, fwiw, .532 bolt heads are available also.
As to the question of cost:
B and C bedding block stock-300, trigger-100-300 depending, barrel- 200 up, avg 325 won't be too far off, IMO you'll want a new recoil lug also-25-50, plus what you spend on the donor. Tools you can find a Savage guy and borrow or you at least need a barrel nut wrench, barrel vise and, again IMO,an action wrench. Wheeler makes good ones. Then go/no go etc.
Potatoe
Heres a model 10 savage i did a while ago, built from spare parts laying around, there are a couple of trigger options, i have the rifle basix on this, but i coulnd never get the weight down to the claimed 6 oz. as it would never pick up the sear ( not sure that made sense) however better then the standard trigger, you can build them cheaply.
If i had stuff laying around, i'd build on these actions, but your friend is far better off with the target action if thats an option,
Plenty of prefit barrels around
Safe shooting
Heres a model 10 savage i did a while ago, built from spare parts laying around, there are a couple of trigger options, i have the rifle basix on this, but i coulnd never get the weight down to the claimed 6 oz. as it would never pick up the sear ( not sure that made sense) however better then the standard trigger, you can build them cheaply.
If i had stuff laying around, i'd build on these actions, but your friend is far better off with the target action if thats an option,
Plenty of prefit barrels around
Safe shooting
Attachments
Great info guys thanks very much. My friend has had the rifle for a few years now but I'm trying to get him into precision shooting at least a, little. Do you guys normally get these things trued, or just get a custom barrel screwed on?. This a mainly deer gun but would have to shoot at least .75 moa for me to really try to sell him on taking the next step
DHuffman
Silver $$ Contributor
I've built several Savages. I would mention Choate tactical stocks, all my savage build rifles have easily shot .5 or less some a lot less. Action trueing is not required but I've had SSS do a couple and feel it's worth every penny if you can tolerate the wait.
With a barrel vise and or an action wrench, a barrel nut wrench and headspace guages it's an easy DIY job.
With a barrel vise and or an action wrench, a barrel nut wrench and headspace guages it's an easy DIY job.
Typically you don't "get things" done for your Savage; you do it yourself. The barrel nut system lets you fit your own barrel and set the head space very accurately. It's really quite easy. And, since you aren't trying to do the job as quickly as possible at a low price like many professionals might, you are likely to end up with even better results. The requires skill level is low and all it takes is some time fiddling around to get it just right and then checking and rechecking to make sure. As a DIY "pretend" gunsmith, time is not important.
You need a go gauge, a barrel vice, and a barrel nut wrench; none of which are expensive. Since Savages are so popular, chances are you can borrow these items. They are hard to damage and used only occasionally, so they're easier to borrow than, let's say, a micrometer for example.
You can true the action, but since the bolt has a floating head most guys don't think it's necessary. With some half-decent hand loads or some good factory ammo your friend should be able to shoot 5-shot, 3/4 MOA groups at 100 yards with the stock gun, assuming you shoot from a bench with a good scope. Screw on a good barrel and carefully make hand loaded ammo using the best components and techniques and shooting sub 1/2 MOA most of the time is well within reach.
Model 10 is a great hunting gun , does it shoot now ? What caliber you thinking about ? Dicks has the long range Rem ADL on sale ..... Is this going towards a benchrest gun ?
Some even have a smooth barrel nut that requires a different tool with a brass shim or something to prevent marring the barrel nut which doesn't have any notches for the typical Savage nut. A good pipe wrench and a new grooved nut along with a aftermarket recoil lug is how I would replace that. Like the pic from DMC you can even headspace without a nut if you use a heaspace like a Remington. Gunsmiths may hate them but for the DIY'er they are as easy as it gets. Pick up the no-go gauge along with the go gauge as tightening the nut can induce extra headspace you should watch for.
Actually, tightening the nut can reduce headspace.
I put 2 layers of Scotch magic tape (about .004") on the back of the go gauge. If the bolt won't close, headspace is good. I also like to double check with a piece of sized brass.
One of the neatest things about a Savage: It can be 3 or more rifles (deer, varmint, club competition) in one, just by swapping barrels. It would also be easy to swap scopes at the same time.
All you need for swapping barrels: barrel nut wrench, action wrench, (both available at Northland Shooter's Supply for under $100) and a go gauge for each cartridge.
I cut a notch in my action wrench so I don't have to remove the picatinny rail when I swap barrels.
I put 2 layers of Scotch magic tape (about .004") on the back of the go gauge. If the bolt won't close, headspace is good. I also like to double check with a piece of sized brass.
One of the neatest things about a Savage: It can be 3 or more rifles (deer, varmint, club competition) in one, just by swapping barrels. It would also be easy to swap scopes at the same time.
All you need for swapping barrels: barrel nut wrench, action wrench, (both available at Northland Shooter's Supply for under $100) and a go gauge for each cartridge.
I cut a notch in my action wrench so I don't have to remove the picatinny rail when I swap barrels.
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