School me on some savages

[savagedasher]

The moral of the story with a SALVAGE, whether using the correct gauges or not-

You can not make a Ferrari F40 out of Ford pick up truck parts!

The moral of the story with a SALVAGE, whether using the correct gauges or not-

You can not make a Ferrari F40 out of Ford pick up truck parts!

I have several savages that out shoots my 4

The moral of the story with a SALVAGE, whether using the correct gauges or not-

You can not make a Ferrari F40 out of Ford pick up truck parts!

Why would you take a Ferrari F40 or a ford pickup and use it for shooting .
Smile Larry

 

[Tnslim]

Make sure to take out FP when headspacing, and remove ejector

Why is this needed? Both are recessed into the bolt head when the bolt is closed on the go gauge. I do check that the extractor isn't binding on the gauge but other than that I figure I'm good to go. Another thing I do which is probably overkill is I use valve lapping compound on the threads and keep a steady pull on the barrel and screw into the receiver. I figure it can't hurt by making sure you have good mating surfaces with the threads when you tighten the nut. Just be sure to get all the lapping compound off all threads before final assembly. BTW, I use the tape method and no problems....yet.

 

[6MMsteve]

Why is this needed? Both are recessed into the bolt head when the bolt is closed on the go gauge. I do check that the extractor isn't binding on the gauge but other than that I figure I'm good to go. Another thing I do which is probably overkill is I use valve lapping compound on the threads and keep a steady pull on the barrel and screw into the receiver. I figure it can't hurt by making sure you have good mating surfaces with the threads when you tighten the nut. Just be sure to get all the lapping compound off all threads before final assembly. BTW, I use the tape method and no problems....yet.

when I take out the FP I get a real true feel of the headspace almost exacting, you can feel minute pressure on the bolt, not found with firing pin in I never did this until a member mentioned it and man it is totally different much better feel, you can really set the headspace close this way

 

[6MMsteve]

Why is this needed? Both are recessed into the bolt head when the bolt is closed on the go gauge. I do check that the extractor isn't binding on the gauge but other than that I figure I'm good to go. Another thing I do which is probably overkill is I use valve lapping compound on the threads and keep a steady pull on the barrel and screw into the receiver. I figure it can't hurt by making sure you have good mating surfaces with the threads when you tighten the nut. Just be sure to get all the lapping compound off all threads before final assembly. BTW, I use the tape method and no problems....yet.

Wheeler Accuracy utube gives you some good pointers on feel, helped me bunches on understanding the finer points of proper bolt feel

 

[yotehater]

Quote from yotehater:
......"Teaching someone to redneck gunsmith their rifle is pretty reckless.".....

I don't know who the above is directed to.
However in my reply #39 the first sentence in the final paragraph states what should be used. (meaning the correct tools.....pretty clear...) and the closing sentence states what I wrote is merely what I do......

NO, I wasn't referring to anyone specifically. Maybe that gunsmith, indirectly. Some of the thin skinned bunch here is oblivious to doing things the right way. I use tape also. I use it like was mentioned to gain some headspace under the go-gauge. Telling someone to check no-go headspace with magic tape is foolish. That is why they are made of steel, not brass or plastic. You shouldn't want 50,000 psi to 70,000 psi chamber pressure to be headspace verified with tape. I guess the gunsmithing trade has changed. Sorry to bother you.

 

[6MMsteve]

in my observance of changing barrels on Sav TA removal of firing pin, then headspace with go, you really don't even need to check with NOGO, because of feel, it will be so close if you pay attention to feel IMHO Chamber bein clean go gauge clean and lug area on bolt and rec bein clean

 

[Tnslim]

when I take out the FP I get a real true feel of the headspace almost exacting, you can feel minute pressure on the bolt, not found with firing pin in I never did this until a member mentioned it and man it is totally different much better feel, you can really set the headspace close this way

I've got a 243AI almost ready to go together and I'll give this a try. I'm always ready to try something new (for me) with hopes of achieving better results. Thanks for the explanation.
Slim

 

[Dgd6mm]

May I go off the current topic and ask a question? Can I take a Savage 110V in 223, change the bolt head and barrel and turn it into a 300 Win Mag?

Josh, most Savage .300 WM barrels are small shank. My FCP is. I'm sure you could also find a pre-fit small shank.

 

[joshb]

Thank you for that. I've played around with the idea of making a 300 Win Mag out of it for my son using a Criterion or other prefit. He likes boomers. Must be that Army influence. I just wasn't sure the small shank would do. Not having any Savage experience, I thought I'd ask. I just made a new stock for it, so it has the potential to be a nice gun.

 

[M-61]

Thank you for that. I've played around with the idea of making a 300 Win Mag out of it for my son using a Criterion or other prefit. He likes boomers. Must be that Army influence. I just wasn't sure the small shank would do. Not having any Savage experience, I thought I'd ask. I just made a new stock for it, so it has the potential to be a nice gun.
View attachment 994087

Nice work Josh indeed.

 

[potatoe]

This is probably a dumb question but do you need the savage contours for the barrels because of the shank & barrel nut or can you use say a rem varmint contour?

 

[M-61]

This is probably a dumb question but do you need the savage contours for the barrels because of the shank & barrel nut or can you use say a rem varmint contour?

PM inbound

 

[6MMsteve]

This is probably a dumb question but do you need the savage contours for the barrels because of the shank & barrel nut or can you use say a rem varmint contour?

you can get just about anyting ya want I think, I purchased my 1st 6 dasher Brux the other day and I am very happy shooting bugholes, when I don't wonder off into another realm lol

 

[Nomad47]

If you don't mind the wait, you could do what I did. I ordered 2 Brux barrels as 1.125 o.d. straight, no taper, finished to 30". That was for the Target Actions which are large shank. In this case, the tenon gets cut directly on the outside of the barrel, then the barrel nut threads right on and over the unthreaded part of the barrel. Don't know how clear this is to someone that has swapped Savage barrels before. Hope this helps.

Actually Preacher ordered for me, per my request.

 

[potatoe]

If you don't mind the wait, you could do what I did. I ordered 2 Brux barrels as 1.125 o.d. straight, no taper, finished to 30". That was for the Target Actions which are large shank. In this case, the tenon gets cut directly on the outside of the barrel, then the barrel nut threads right on and over the unthreaded part of the barrel. Don't know how clear this is to someone that has swapped Savage barrels before. Hope this helps.

Actually Preacher ordered for me, per my request.

That is how I thought all savage barrels were done (I'm just assuming, I've never messed with one). Pretty much what my contour question was trying to get at was I seen on X caliber's website for savage pre fits, was that they have "savage" contours which are 1.058 for 4" of the shank and I'm guessing that is needed to put the tenon on for the receiver threads as well as that barrel nut. But I wondering would a smaller shank say 2.5" of the LT. palma be long enough for both the receiver and barrel nut? Also the fact that the shank is larger on other contours vs. the savage contour might be a slight issue with shorter cartridges if they have to turn the shank down to 1.058 from 1.2xx.?

 

[Zero333]

Here is a few of my Savage builds

308win



243win



300winmag

 

[M-61]

If you don't mind the wait, you could do what I did. I ordered 2 Brux barrels as 1.125 o.d. straight, no taper, finished to 30". That was for the Target Actions which are large shank. In this case, the tenon gets cut directly on the outside of the barrel, then the barrel nut threads right on and over the unthreaded part of the barrel. Don't know how clear this is to someone that has swapped Savage barrels before. Hope this helps.

Actually Preacher ordered for me, per my request.

I have 1.140 diameter no taper. The barrel nut, (hard to explain) is not threaded its entire length. The tapered end has no threads allowing a smooth transition to the barrel.(just cosmetic.) That taper prevents (just) the barrel nut from being fully screwed on. Once the tapered part reaches the smooth part of the barrel (1.140) it stops. (Thus you HAVE to do something) ) On one I removed the taper (works fine but cosmetically it allows some barrel threads to show). On the others I have done I elected to open the taper ID (very little needed) to allow the nut to work and still have a smooth transition to the barrel.
I hope this makes sense.

 

[Nomad47]

For my first non pre-fit barrel, I bought an off the shelf Bartlein. It had an OD of 1.250 for the first 5 inches then tapered to .940 at the muzzle.

So the smith cut the first 2 or 3" of the 1.250 diameter down to 1.125" for the tenon and nut. That left a step back up to 1.250 that he didn't like. So he slowly and carefully turned the rest of the barrel down to 1.125 until he got to the point on the barrel that was 1.125". That point was nearly at the halfway point down the barrel. A lot of work for him but the end result was a good looking barrel.