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Savage model 10 hard extraction 6 creedmoor

Based on your picture I would mark up the entire neck and shoulder and a little farther up the body. Just to see if you can get a significant rub mark anywhere. Should be a pretty even ring around the case. Push it in by hand firmly till it stops. Might need a cleaning rod to tap the case back out.
Mine started about the .250 mark. Drove me nuts and I even pulled the barrel off just to get the action out of the way while figuring it out if it was a brass, barrel, sizing, or headspace issue. For me it turned out my new barrel just has a tighter chamber. My brass fit fine in my other 6br and also fit fine in a chamber gauge. I plan on lightly polishing mine.
 
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Based on your picture I would mark up the entire neck and shoulder and a little farther up the body. Just to see if you can get a significant rub mark anywhere. Should be a pretty even ring around the case. Push it in by hand firmly till it stops. Might need a cleaning rod to knock the case back out.
Mine started about the .250 mark. Drove me nuts and I even pulled the barrel off just to get the action out of the way while figuring it out if it was a brass, barrel, sizing, or headspace issue. For me it turned out my new barrel just has a tighter chamber. My brass fit fine in my other 6br and also fit fine in a chamber gauge. I plan on lightly polishing mine.
I’m going to at first chance, when I take a fired case I can push it in just a guess 3/4 of the way in with my pinky until it stops. Have to make it go rest of the way with the bolt. It’s got fat somewhere and I’m determined to find it. I don’t know why it took 4 firings to show up. I have not changed my die setting and it didn’t get loose during sizing. Thank you for the advice
 
Your gun might need some more primary extraction to. To test, next time it's giving you a hard time slip a pocket knife blade or something as thin between the rear baffle and action and then try extraction. If that helps then just shim the back of the baffle
 
Your gun might need some more primary extraction to. To test, next time it's giving you a hard time slip a pocket knife blade or something as thin between the rear baffle and action and then try extraction. If that helps then just shim the back of the baffle
With what ? It’s not all the way round, it’s Ike a half moon. I’m sure it would help it’s all but pitiful like it is.
 
If you size a case (0 bump, no decapping rod) does the body/shoulder diameter return to 0.461? And than the case chamber easier, may need to strip the bolt for true feel.
 
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I marked up a case completely with red sharpie. Got the bolt closed and it would not extract, I’m sure it being snug and the sticky sharpie residue contributed but it was so tight the extractor came off the case rim and I had to hit it several hard times with cleaning rod to get case out. Only place I see a issue is on the point of the body shoulder junction. It’s all the way around And in the area of the lines around the case above the .200 line there is sharpie all the way around inside my chamber 0B338800-23B8-4CE7-A7C6-BE3D4C4EB6E9.jpeg
 
Can barely see sharpie with the camera angle. But I’d consider it serious contact9EE41B04-A105-4E1A-9095-F2C211154922.jpeg
 
Looks like your fired brass doesn't get fully sized down on diameters. The 0.464" is sort of a red flag that needs to be checked out.

The thing about letting the die go lower, is it has good leverage on the longitudinal dimension of the shoulder, but poor leverage on diameters cause the draft angles are so shallow.

If that shoulder diameter is really that big, and you are not versed on things like chamber casting and inspections, I would get with a good smith and show him your sizing die and brass as well.

The smith should be able to quickly isolate the issues between the action or the chamber/sizing and help you. You may end up with something as simple as a different die or custom die, or something simple in the action.
 
My Savage Model 12 started doing the same thing as yours.
After firing a round it was difficult to pull the round out of the chamber.

I took a look at the chamber with my bore scope and noticed a yellow film in the chamber.

Used a shot gun brush and wrapped some scotch brite pad around it. Soaked it in Hoppies #9 and used a drill to clean out the chamber. The Yellow film was gone.

I think my issues was due to the case lube I use when resizing my brass.

I was not wiping the cases down after resizing them and a film on case lube was left on the brass.

After several firings the lube would build up in the chamber and cause it to stick.

I now wipe down my cases to get any lube off the brass.

So far I have shot over 75 rounds without this issue occurring.
 
If my base swells out to .271. What diameter do I need to try and get it do to prevent this ? I have only a couple dies I can try
 
If my base swells out to .271. What diameter do I need to try and get it do to prevent this ? I have only a couple dies I can try
do you have a 45acp die? I use one as a ring die for my 30br when I start to get clickers. It sizes the base to .4699.
 
My redding sizer is all but making it to the .200 line it’s just not squeezing it. I am digging now on the bench. None of my different competition shell holders helped
 
I just use the 45acp sizing die with the decapping pin removed. One pass takes my brass from .4703 to.4699 at the .200 line. Then run through my regular sizing die.
 
Looks like your fired brass doesn't get fully sized down on diameters. The 0.464" is sort of a red flag that needs to be checked out.

The thing about letting the die go lower, is it has good leverage on the longitudinal dimension of the shoulder, but poor leverage on diameters cause the draft angles are so shallow.

If that shoulder diameter is really that big, and you are not versed on things like chamber casting and inspections, I would get with a good smith and show him your sizing die and brass as well.

The smith should be able to quickly isolate the issues between the action or the chamber/sizing and help you. You may end up with something as simple as a different die or custom die, or something simple in the action.
I have some once fired hornady brass from when the gun was new It measures .470 and chambers fine
 
You can pancake the shoulder/body junction if your seating die(standard type) is not set correctly.
I have it set. Sized, and loaded rounds chamber like a top. I tried my uncles 6.5 creedmoor die. It takes mine from .471 to .470. But it bumps my. Shoulders back .005 as it’s setup for his rifle. I know at .471 sized my cases chamber fine but damn won’t come out once fired. Fired still measures .471
 
Those lines are more visual than anything. Yes the chamber caused it but you can’t feel them at all on the case. Wouldn’t hurt to polish it some though
I had a Weatherby Vanguard that had a rough chamber that caused hard bolt lift and very difficult extraction but not on every round. My smith polished the chambered and the problem disappeared.

The cases showed marks similar to yours.
 
When you have a hard time pulling out a case, and then that case will only go back into the chamber part way after sizing without force, then we usually find we have a diameter coordination issue.

I can usually cast the die and chamber and sort out the issues quickly unless the barrel isn't easy to remove, but unless you have that capability I recommend you get a little assist from a qualified rifle smith.

 

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