I couldn’t stand it I went back out , just about a 1/16 turn off shell holder gave me .003 shoulder bump with the setup I was using.Thanks guys. I appreciate your participation. To the rest of you, I am always looking for more data. Keep it coming.
I'm glad you explained that!Some FL dies for belted cases are built so that if you set them by the old touch the shell holder, lower the ram and then tighten an additional eighth to quarter turn and then tighten the lock ring instruction shoulders of fired cases are pushed way back, more than would work for decent case life. Not all are that way, but some are. My point is to measure fired and sized and come up with the difference in those measurements with your tool, not to compare the absolute numbers for the tool reading between different shooters. I want to make reloaders aware of this difference when it comes to FL Dies for belted cases. I already have some data. One friend has a .300 WM die that pushes shoulders back about .015 when adjusted as I mentioned. Another friend has a Redding Type S die for 7mm Mag that is not made that way.
These have been my solution for graduated locking rings. I put the reference mark on the die body rather than the press.This can help
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Jepp2,This can help
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hi Boyd— i decided to try a different caliper and a differnet size die to see if there would be any differences.Often when one guy tells a new loader something, with all of the sometimes contradictory information on the internet including YouTube, it is hard for him to decide who to believe. What I am looking to get here is multiple source that will by their volume reinforce a point that needs to me made about setting FL dies for belted case. It will require the sacrifice of on old ugly case, that needs to be in fired condition. I want you to tell us what the caliber is, measure and record what the shoulder to head dimension is, and then set your FL die according to the directions that are commonly included with FL dies. Raise the ram, turn the die down until it contacts the shell holder. Lower the ram. Turn the die an additional eighth or quarter turn and then lock it down. I am trying to show by multiple examples how much shoulder bump will result. Please give us your results as replies to this thread. Thanks.
hi jepp—. those marking templates would be handy to make some marked locknuts. i have long thought a thin slot cut in the die threads perpendicular to them would provide a nice adjustment markThis can help
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Top right you have a Watch feature that tags a thread for you.
ThanksTop right you have a Watch feature that tags a thread for you.
Are you cutting the belt in a separate step or have a reamer made to factory brass dimensions? I ask because I'm seeing extremely long base to shoulder lengths in custom 300 win mags.I think we need to clarify if these are custom rifle barrels or factory as well because with a custom barrel, I’m setting the headspace to virgin brass and not G-NG gauges.
Since cases rarely get tight shoulder to head on their first firing, I advise shooters to adjust their FL dies to duplicate the measurement of the once fired case and then try it in the rifle. Generally, this works. If you want to get an idea of how much clearance a fired case has in the chamber, measure the OAL with one jaw of your caliper across the center of the fired primer and the other centered on the case mouth, then do the same measurement after removing the primer. If there is a crater CAREFULLY remove it with a fine file, before taking the first measurement.The problem with belted cases is they grow up 40 thou 1st firing then if you set it back 10 thou every firing you get case head separation in about 5-7 firings. The new Peterson long brass is the best brass I’ve seen for belted cases. Some people are unaware they headspace off belt.
300 win mag
Federal brass- new-2.250”
Fired-2.2765”
Sized-2.251”
Peterson long brass
New-2.268”-2.270”
These are the factory instructions of an old hornady die and whidden. The whidden gives good instructions to bump.002”-.003”
The hornady die does give a warning at bottom not to over size. But with a belted magnum there isn’t anything to headspace off except a reference number from saami.
A warning: do not try the tape on bottom of case trick because it headspace’s off belt if not fully sized you are hitting belt not shoulder.
True, I know BR guys who never anneal, but that does not apply to all rifles. If you have a custom chamber design matched to the exact brass you are using with a custom die matched to that chamber to minimally work the brass when sizing…then yes, I agree that annealing isn’t a good idea. The brass really doesn’t need it and will stay more consistent.…
P.S. Mr Jones is pretty adamant about NOT annealing. As are some of my bench rest shooting friends.