Steps Reloading 7MM STW,Belted Cases)

[topwater225]

My question is more about "Belted Cases" than "caliber"..., but here goes:

I am not new to average reloading, but I want to take my reloading to the "precision" level for long range hunting/competition.

I just ordered a new custom rifle in 7mm STW,belted case), and I want to be sure I do the reloading steps right without re-inventing the wheel. So, here are the steps I envision performing. And I would greatly appreciate if some of you would verify/correct my theory.

Brand New Brass: After Purchasing the Redding Competition Die Set,FL, Neck, Micrometer seater) and the Stoney Point Head Space Gauge.

1. Take new brass and FL size using the expander ball to get dents out. Priming will be done at this stage as well.
2. Check case lengths and trim if necessary to get all brass at min length,2.84"), and make sure no particles of brass is left in the case.
3. Fill cases with powder using trickle method to make sure all loads are consistent.
4. Insert the Micrometer seating die.
5. Using dimensions that the gunsmith gives me ; seat 175 SMK or 180 Berger to lands.

Fired Brass:
1. Check fired brass with Stoney Point Head Space Gauge.
2. Remove expander ball as this is only used for New Brass.,I don't know if the expander ball can be removed without removing the de-capping pin....I need advice here...)
3. Check case lenght and trim as needed.
4. Set the FL sizing die to just "bump" the shoulder back to the desired length and decap and re-prime,Again, what is your opinion here? If the expander ball and de-capping pin can not be separated, should I perform de-capping with a different kind of die, and should I be "hand priming"?

Now.... I'm really fuzzy on the redding neck sizer and if it's even needed, but here goes:

5. Use the neck sizing gauge to re-size just the neck,This maybe unnecessary as the FL die probably sizes the neck). I need advice here too....
5. Fill cases with powder using same trickle method as above.
6. Seat Bullets to exact dimensions.

All opinions are welcome, and thanks in advance!!!

 

[Winchester69]

For a start, you need to find out from your gunsmith two things:
1. Is he trimming the chamber back in the area of the cartridge belt so that the case will headspace on the shoulder rather than the belt. If he doesn't, you may have trouble with the cases stretching.
2. Will the chamber be cut to tight tolerances such that case necks will need to be turned to fit the chamber.

Get a copy of Glen Zediker's Handloading for Competition; it's available from Sinclair. This book will greatly clarify what your loading process is and why.

Full-length dies are typically custom-made for each chamber, usually a tight chamber that requires neck-turned cases. Everything is fitted. Forster will fit the neck portion of a FL sizer to accommodate a fitted neck, but it won't accommodate a tight chamber. If there can be a variance in neck thicknesses, a bushing die allows the flexibility to accommodate it.

If you will be using bushing dies, the Redding Competition set provides a micrometer-head neck sizing die. With it, you can control how much of the neck is sized. Besides the micrometer seater, the Competition set includes a body die. It performs the case sizing and shoulder bumping functions of a FL sizing die. You also have the choice of an S-type NS bushing die with body die and micrometer seater. An S-type FL die will do the same thing as the NS/body die combo with less flexibility. The Redding bushing dies do permit removal of the expander ball while retaining the de-capping pin.

Usually fired brass will be de-capped as a first step before cleaning. You may want to perform this step separately on a cheap press to preserve the cleanliness of the lube on your regular press, or use a punch and base,Wilson).

Case lengths, while being equal, can be fitted to the chamber rather than using the SAAMI specification.

Because of the metering characteristics of the powders you will be using, you should individually weigh each charge, unless you have loads using spherical powder.

Read Zediker's book. He will tell you why you are performing each step. You will have a new perspective afterward.