Reports of people screwing barrels on hand tight

[Walt Krafft]

More damage is done by over tightening than under tightening. Hand tight to include a snap is fine.

 

[WSnyder]

There's also a recoil lug with a circular clamp built into it that's pinned to the action face.

WTO Switchlug?

It's different than some switch setups because it has a taper in it where a matching taper is machined into the barrel when fitting and the barrel is is pulled against the threads when it's torqued like tightening a normal barrel would do. Never tried it and don't know how well it works but I've seen some people say it works great.

Anybody ever use and test one?

SWITCHLUG – West Texas Ordnance, Inc. | Custom Rifles & Accessories

westtexordnance.com

Edit: Found this pertaining to RTZ and Zero Hold with the Switchlug

We tested point-of-impact repeatability by shooting 5 shot or larger groups at 100 yards, and removing and re-torqueing the barrel between every single shot. POI repeatability has proven to consistently return within +/- .5MOA, and in many cases significantly less. As a matter of course we recommend always confirming your zero after a barrel change, but you can be confident in the ability of a rifle with a properly installed Switchlug system to hold its zero and return to it.

...

For the system to function with maximum repeatability, the lug and action should be properly bedded into the stock. This immobilizes the lug during barrel changes when the clamp is loosened for barrel removal or installation. If ordering a new stock for use with this product, order with an oversize recoil lug pocket as the SwitchLug is .350″ thick. Chassis systems that do not obstruct the area around the recoil lug can also be used. Again, for maximum repeatability we recommend bedding the lug pocket and front action ring area with Devcon epoxy. If you choose not to bed your chassis the SwitchLug will work, but you will likely experience a shift in POI on your first 2-3 shots after a barrel installation as the action and lug settle.

 

[Ksracer]

It's different than some switch setups because it has a taper in it where a matching taper is machined into the barrel when fitting and the barrel is is pulled against the threads when it's torqued like tightening a normal barrel would do. Never tried it and don't know how well it works but I've seen some people say it works great.

Anybody ever use and test one?

I had a customer bring one in several yrs ago and after looking at it, getting the tenon specs, and machining a barrel I couldn't figure out how it loaded the threads beyond the initial tightening. So removed the pins locking the lug to the action face, tightened the barrel by hand and then torqued the lugs locking screw. I was going to try to measure the torque it required to unscrew the barrel but it came loose by hand with little more force than I put it on with.

There was a video floating around a few years ago where a shooter zero'd his rifle with a quick change "hand tight" type system and then "thunked" the barrel with a short 2x4 and moved the zero a significant amount. He then torqued the barrel and repeated the test with no movement.

I realize people don't go around intentionally hitting their rifle with stuff, but it's not an unreasonable situation for a hunting or tactical rifle.

 

[Willie]

I have 4 WTO SwitchLug rifles shooting 12 barrels. After several years, I am sold on them. All are 100 yd zeroed and windage is never off over 2 clicks when changing a barrel. For different cartridges and loads, I've had a moa difference elevation. At first I kept a notebook for poi changes, but now just rezero with a few shots.

I have never had a barrel loosen due to torque of 30 inch # on the lug and hand tightening.

Clayton at WTO required the action and SwitchLug when machining and indicating new barrels for me. Initially several smiths were just just keeping notes and machining without the action, but I guess there was a problem of some sort.

As was said, there's lots of ways to change barrels. To each, his way.

 

[1shot]

I have found through both good and bad experiences the the proper lube and clean threads trump everything else. I will state up front, I'm talking about Kelbly/Stolle Panda actions only. I first clean both threaded surfaces with a couple of blasts of break cleaner, followed by a clean cloth with more brake cleaner. I then apply a thin line of the green grease that Kelblys sends with their products at 120* intervals. Then a light coating where the bbl. contacts the receiver. I have the bbl. in a bbl. vice and I spin the receiver on by hand. If I feel a tight spot, I'll back it off a little bit the proceed to screw the receiver to the bbl. Once the receiver is all the way on, I take the action wrench and give it one good snug. This procedure has worked flawlessly for the last 15 years that I have been shooting this system. I mentioned earlier about bad experiences. I thought I would try a different grease, that being Shooters Choice red all weather high temp. grease. I assembled everything as described previously, but when I went to remove the bbl. it was seized harder the Supermans elbow.
I ended up taking it to Kelblys to have it broken free. The guy that did the work simply said "there is a reason we give that green grease to our customers.
Point taken.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have found through both good and bad experiences the the proper lube and clean threads trump everything else. I will state up front, I'm talking about Kelbly/Stolle Panda actions only. I first clean both threaded surfaces with a couple of blasts of break cleaner, followed by a clean cloth with more brake cleaner. I then apply a thin line of the green grease that Kelblys sends with their products at 120* intervals. Then a light coating where the bbl. contacts the receiver. I have the bbl. in a bbl. vice and I spin the receiver on by hand. If I feel a tight spot, I'll back it off a little bit the proceed to screw the receiver to the bbl. Once the receiver is all the way on, I take the action wrench and give it one good snug. This procedure has worked flawlessly for the last 15 years that I have been shooting this system. I mentioned earlier about bad experiences. I thought I would try a different grease, that being Shooters Choice red all weather high temp. grease. I assembled everything as described previously, but when I went to remove the bbl. it was seized harder the Supermans elbow.
I ended up taking it to Kelblys to have it broken free. The guy that did the work simply said "there is a reason we give that green grease to our customers.
Point taken.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

Youd be surprised to know the last few years they have been sending red grease out with their actions!!

 

[rijndael]

Then a light coating where the bbl. contacts the receiver.

What's the reasoning for using grease here? I figured you wouldn't want anything to interfere with a perfectly square interface.

 

[AlNyhus]

What's the reasoning for using grease here? I figured you wouldn't want anything to interfere with a perfectly square interface.

To reduce the possiblity of galling. If I put a dab on my thumb and index finger and it strings together when I open them, it's pretty good.

Lucas Red 'N Tacky is a good one....lots of others, too. -Al

Red “N” Tacky Grease – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive!

lucasoil.com

 

[Judd]

Youd be surprised to know the last few years they have been sending red grease out with their actions!!

My Nanook came with blue grease, I was a little shocked because the atlas that I’ve had were always either red or greyish green.

The guy I’ve used for cerokoting, hates the grease on the threads but due to galling I won’t use nothing. Seems I’ve settled on this stuff

Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz. , Red https://a.co/d/aeCGxcl

It’s sticky like Al mentioned.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I've heard of people screwing on barrels hand tight and shooting them without issue. What are your thoughts on this? They are doing this on actions that do not have set screws to hold the barrel in place like Accuracy International.

I guess you need to define “without issue”.

Strictly from a Short Range Benchrest Shooters point of view, I hope all of my fellow competitors show up with barrels that are just “snapped” tight by hand.

 

[JEFFPPC]

I have found through both good and bad experiences the the proper lube and clean threads trump everything else. I will state up front, I'm talking about Kelbly/Stolle Panda actions only. I first clean both threaded surfaces with a couple of blasts of break cleaner, followed by a clean cloth with more brake cleaner. I then apply a thin line of the green grease that Kelblys sends with their products at 120* intervals. Then a light coating where the bbl. contacts the receiver. I have the bbl. in a bbl. vice and I spin the receiver on by hand. If I feel a tight spot, I'll back it off a little bit the proceed to screw the receiver to the bbl. Once the receiver is all the way on, I take the action wrench and give it one good snug. This procedure has worked flawlessly for the last 15 years that I have been shooting this system. I mentioned earlier about bad experiences. I thought I would try a different grease, that being Shooters Choice red all weather high temp. grease. I assembled everything as described previously, but when I went to remove the bbl. it was seized harder the Supermans elbow.
I ended up taking it to Kelblys to have it broken free. The guy that did the work simply said "there is a reason we give that green grease to our customers.
Point taken.
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

I have used Permetex Anti Seize for 20+ years on 3 Pandas with excellent results. Every other need for grease involving guns or their related equipment gets Mobil One Bearing Grease, its red.

 

[LVLAaron]

Speaking of grease... I've never found anything better than Belray waterproof grease. It's been tough to find since the pandemia started, but it is thick like peanut butter. It makes me wonder how Lucas gets away with calling the red stuff "tacky".

Waterproof Grease

Excellent protection from dirt and saltwater.

www.belray.com

 

[1shot]

The green grease is Prolong EP2, and you are right @Dusty Stevens I am surprised.

 

[Ksracer]

I've been using this stuff as a general assembly lube for 20+ yrs and it has worked equally well on barrels for me. Many high performance engine builders use it on bolts and studs for gasketed joints where torque is critical.

It's #3 so it stays where you put it also.

 

[Gil P.]

Why doesn't anyone use nickel anti seize?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Why doesn't anyone use nickel anti seize?

Anti seize is for joints that get so hot they boil the grease out. No need in it and nobody wants extra nickel or copper metal chunks in their action threads

 

[Field_2_Fork]

Anti seize is for joints that get so hot they boil the grease out. No need in it and nobody wants extra nickel or copper metal chunks in their action threads

Darn, I just bought some yesterday thinking it was what is best. Haven't used any so I can return it, wasn't cheap at $40.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Darn, I just bought some yesterday thinking it was what is best. Haven't used any so I can return it, wasn't cheap at $40.

Get a high pressure bearing grease. I like lucas red n tacky. You can get a lifetime supply for $40

 

[Field_2_Fork]

Get a high pressure bearing grease. I like lucas red n tacky. You can get a lifetime supply for $40

That one I already have, and plenty of it!

 

[mr45man]

How many ft lbs of torque can you achieve with a snap using just your hands? Also once you put a barrel on with your hands can you then take it off with just your hands. Inquiring minds.

Its not coming off by hand.