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removing case lube

I use the dillon case lube. When I get done throw in the tumbler for fifteen minutes. Comes out nice and clean.
 
Just had time to experiment on a few cases using the RCBS-2 case lube instead of Imperial Wax. Dabbed a spot on the (expander) mandrel, on the neck turning mandrel and inside the case neck. Very smooth expanding and turning operation, as good as using wax but with much less to clean up - a Q tip inside the case neck after turning and good to go - although I will probably still run the cases through the tumbler. The last time I ran the cases through the tumbler there was just a bit too much wax, the worst bits had dropped into the case body and this clogged up the corn cob media. Found I had to use more wax to stop the galling, hence the problem with the excess.

I'll enjoy getting to try out the other suggestions listed above.

Thanks again guys for your comments.

Martin
 
Several ways, I am not recommending some as I have used these chemicals all my life.

I believe imperial wax is the best with the Hornady One shot being second.

1st, the ultrasonic cleaner will get it out, dissolves it. Plus gets the carbon in the process.

2nd, Lacquer thinner, put brass in a quart can, let brass sit about an hour and agitate at times. I will totally dissolve the wax. Flashes off quick.

3rd, Acetone will dissolve it same process as the Lacquer thinner.

I have lost a match because of Imperial Wax was left in the cases. Lacquer Thinner works the best but must be done outdoors or in a well ventilated shop. The thinner will flash off very quick and the inside of the brass is squeaky clean. Same with the US cleaner.

There is Wax & Grease remover, but it leaves a oil like film on the brass, I don't like it. There are several more chemicals that will do the job, BUT I will not mention them.

For the record, I use a vibratory cleaner with the regular media. All it did was build up the media inside the brass and it stayed. I took Lacquer Thinner and soaked, all the wax and media came out almost instantly.

You filter the thinner with a t shirt and keep reusing. You should get about 5 uses out of it.

I have never had a problem since doing the above, it works for me and my shooting buddies.

Dennis

PS: BREAK CLEANER, Pressurized cans of break cleaner will also work well and flashes off quickly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. It's EXPENSIVE, they sell break cleaner in gallon cans, but it's not the same and the spray cans. It will work, but the Lacquer Thinner is quicker and cleaner. I use Brake Cleaner (cans) during my barrel cleaning process. "I" believe it helps with carbon removal, but this is my personal observation. With Wipe-Out and Brake Cleaner, most of the time I get away with chemical cleaning my barrels. Always put a coat of oil back in the bore and patch out 3 times.

I was an Automotive Body Tech & Painter for years. The base material ALLWAYS had to be super clean. We removed chemicals, paint, acid (requires additional steps, FYI), etc., and Recycled Thinner was our choice of cleaner, BUT AGAIN, YOU MUST REALIZE THE CHEMICAL YOUR WORKING WITH.
 
When I do 50-100 cases, I just put them in the tumbler overnight with dry walnut media, the next morning, they come out clean dry and shiney!
 
Martin in Aus. said:
Just had time to experiment on a few cases using the RCBS-2 case lube instead of Imperial Wax. Dabbed a spot on the (expander) mandrel, on the neck turning mandrel and inside the case neck. Very smooth expanding and turning operation, as good as using wax but with much less to clean up - a Q tip inside the case neck after turning and good to go - although I will probably still run the cases through the tumbler. The last time I ran the cases through the tumbler there was just a bit too much wax, the worst bits had dropped into the case body and this clogged up the corn cob media. Found I had to use more wax to stop the galling, hence the problem with the excess.

I'll enjoy getting to try out the other suggestions listed above.

Thanks again guys for your comments.

Martin
Click to expand...

Always have had very good results with RCBS-2....roll the case on the pad....every 3rd or 4th some in the neck...it all comes off in the media with no problem it seems. Works for me.
 
DennisH said:
Several ways, I am not recommending some as I have used these chemicals all my life.

I believe imperial wax is the best with the Hornady One shot being second.

1st, the ultrasonic cleaner will get it out, dissolves it. Plus gets the carbon in the process.

2nd, Lacquer thinner, put brass in a quart can, let brass sit about an hour and agitate at times. I will totally dissolve the wax. Flashes off quick.

3rd, Acetone will dissolve it same process as the Lacquer thinner.

I have lost a match because of Imperial Wax was left in the cases. Lacquer Thinner works the best but must be done outdoors or in a well ventilated shop. The thinner will flash off very quick and the inside of the brass is squeaky clean. Same with the US cleaner.

There is Wax & Grease remover, but it leaves a oil like film on the brass, I don't like it. There are several more chemicals that will do the job, BUT I will not mention them.

For the record, I use a vibratory cleaner with the regular media. All it did was build up the media inside the brass and it stayed. I took Lacquer Thinner and soaked, all the wax and media came out almost instantly.

You filter the thinner with a t shirt and keep reusing. You should get about 5 uses out of it.

I have never had a problem since doing the above, it works for me and my shooting buddies.

Dennis

PS: BREAK CLEANER, Pressurized cans of break cleaner will also work well and flashes off quickly. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST. It's EXPENSIVE, they sell break cleaner in gallon cans, but it's not the same and the spray cans. It will work, but the Lacquer Thinner is quicker and cleaner. I use Brake Cleaner (cans) during my barrel cleaning process. "I" believe it helps with carbon removal, but this is my personal observation. With Wipe-Out and Brake Cleaner, most of the time I get away with chemical cleaning my barrels. Always put a coat of oil back in the bore and patch out 3 times.

I was an Automotive Body Tech & Painter for years. The base material ALLWAYS had to be super clean. We removed chemicals, paint, acid (requires additional steps, FYI), etc., and Recycled Thinner was our choice of cleaner, BUT AGAIN, YOU MUST REALIZE THE CHEMICAL YOUR WORKING WITH.
Click to expand...
Good advice.

My own favorite is acetone. This is probably the least toxic of the organic solvents you can use to clean brass. It is also the least offensive in terms of smell and leaves absolutely no residue on the brass after it evaporates off which is in seconds.

I have literally used thousands of gallons of acetone in the lab to do simple things such as drying glassware quickly (before plastic ware took over). The only bad thing about acetone is if you use it without gloves, it will dry your skin out very quickly especially in the winter since it sucks the water out of your skin.
 
I always thought that the Lee was wax based. I base this on what it looks like when it has dried on a case, definitely not greasy or oily.
 
I use Forster case size lube it help to soften the carbon .then I put them a mix of walnut shell an corn cob mix. The case comes out bright and the inside of the necks are polished which give uniform seating. If the cases are dirty I apply size oil then put them in a different vibrator and vibrate them till their clean. I never size a dirty case. Larry
 
I am fortunate to live in a place where they make many types of cleaners, one of which is a degreaser called DC-99, by DW Davies Co. in Racine, WI. A gallon goes for about $9-11. Absolutely removes all grease from engines and everything else, and yet, not toxic, will not dry out your hands, and they sell a ton of it here to the school system and auto mechanics. I have to believe it is citrus based. No smell, not flamable, no flash point.
You can cut it or use it full strength.
 
For Neck Size and Neck Turning I have used Hornady One Shot, Imperial Wax, and new favorite is Delta Lube.
https://21stcenturyinnovation.com/buy-online/ols/products/delta-carbon-no-oil-neck-turning-lube

I do a bunch of different type of shooting and quite a bit using a suppressor. My personal preference is anything case fired through a AR need to be cleaned before doing any case prep. Yes, I have been known to selectively collect range brass. Recently, past couple of years, I shifted away from One Shot to the Lanolin/ 95% Isopropyl mixture. Like others there are times this just comes free with soap and hot water. After case prep, I usually do a 15-20 minute tumble with pins. There are times when it chooses not to dissolve and instead acts like a magnet for all remaining carbon and grime. These moments make me miss One Shot.
 
Martin52 said:
Been using isopropyl alcohol on a bore mop to get Imperial sizing wax out of the case necks after turning. It works but the problem is some of the wax gets pushed down into the case body and is a PITA to get out.

Have seen a few comments here on the forum that brake cleaner will do the job - spray can or liquid type ?

If its sprayed into the case do you just let the case dry or does the brake cleaner residue need to be flushed out ? If liquid, guess you could dip a nylon brush in it that's wide enough to expand and clean the inside of the case body where some of the wax ends up.

Another problem with leaving traces of wax especially in the neck is that it can retain the tiny ceramic balls that are contained in Imperial dry neck lube so I want to get it all out.

Martin
Click to expand...
Oil is easier to remove.
 
amlevin said:
And it works great. That said, it's one of the stickiest messes I've ever had to work with and sometimes the lanolin won't come off in simple soap and water. This "brew" is the same stuff as Dillon's spray lube.

OK for initial mass processing of brass with a progressive (de-prime, size, trim, expand) like the dillon 650 but then it has to go through either an Ultrasonic or SS Pin "bath" to get rid of the "goo". Sure makes your hands nice and smooth though :)

I remember shearing sheep when I was a teen. The natural lanolin from their wool made my jeans waterproof after a dozen or so sheep.
Click to expand...
I use 10% lanolin, 90% isopropyl. Works well sizing, easy to clean up. I figured if it wasn't slick enough I could add more lanolin.
After the alcohol evaporites it reminds you of the Hornady One Shot. I wipe everything down with cleaning vinegar dampened rag after sizing, Way faster than fooling w tumbling if doing 100 - 150 rounds at a time.
 
Martin52 said:
Been using isopropyl alcohol on a bore mop to get Imperial sizing wax out of the case necks after turning. It works but the problem is some of the wax gets pushed down into the case body and is a PITA to get out.

Have seen a few comments here on the forum that brake cleaner will do the job - spray can or liquid type ?

If its sprayed into the case do you just let the case dry or does the brake cleaner residue need to be flushed out ? If liquid, guess you could dip a nylon brush in it that's wide enough to expand and clean the inside of the case body where some of the wax ends up.

Another problem with leaving traces of wax especially in the neck is that it can retain the tiny ceramic balls that are contained in Imperial dry neck lube so I want to get it all out.

Martin
Click to expand...
Brake parts cleaner will clean things up as needed. Dry moly lube forb the necks so no powder sticks. ;)
 
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