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Rem 700 ADL vs Rem 700 action

I'm currently kicking around the idea of putting together a 45cal smokeless muzzleloader. In my wonderings, I noticed that a Rem 700 action (receiver and bolt, no trigger), normally sells for just over $700 where as a complete 700 ADL can be had for under $600 even when they aren't on sale (sale prices brings it to under $400). Are there any differences in these two actions?
The ADL stock is obviously nothing to write home about, but it seems odd that adding a trigger, barrel, and cheap stock would DECREASE the price by over $100. What am I missing here?
 
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Here's an ADL for under $400.

My first guess is that the pricing from the factory would have the action alone priced less but that supply/demand in the market drive the difference - distributors and retailers can change the amount of mark up they put into their pricing. Similar to what car dealers do.
 
If you intend on using modules, Pure Precison makes one with the boltface set up for them. I'm using one and they're a decent action for the money.

Genuinely appreciate it, but that action is roughly 2x what I'd be willing to spend for the entire build. I've been hunting with a Savage 10ML-2 since 2003, and I'm finally to the point where I want to try sabotless. The problem I'm running into is that these guns destroy so much meat. For firearms season, I've gone to a 6.5Gr and/or 300 blackout to cut back on the meat loss. With my ML, if I hit a front leg, I pretty much loose that leg. Its not a ton of meat, but I don't like having to throw it away just because of the weapon I chose to use to harvest it. That situation isn't likely to change by going with a different SML, but it does make it hard to justify spending a lot of money on a new tool if I'm only going to use it for 3 or 4 days a year (less if the weather is warmer than normal in early December), especially since I already have a tool that works. If it were going to be my only deer rifle, I'd be willing to increase the budget, but its not.

I can accomplish the goal for around a grand plus glass if I go with a converted CVA scout. There's nothing wrong with a Scout conversion, but for me there's also nothing write about them. Its just not a gun that I really like. If I can pick up a 700 or a Savage on sale for under $400, I should be able to install a prefit SML barrel and keep the budget in the $1,500 ballpark. I figure its worth the extra $500 to have a rifle that I actually like instead of one that I settled for, but $500 is about where that cutoff point is for me. If I focus on the $1,500 price tag, I want to just continue using my Savage ML10-2, so I prefer to think of it as spending an extra $500 to have something I like more :) If I spend more than that, I'll hate the gun just because it cost me so much.
 
I don't think there's any way to get around the meat damage. Pushing a 40-45 cal projectile at +2500 fps is just gong to have that result. I'm fine with using my ARs for our firearms season, but I'd still like to "upgrade" to a land rider for our late ML season. That won't change how much damage I'm doing to the deer's shoulder, but it would be nice to do less damage to MY shoulder every time I pull the trigger :) I used to push the 250gr SST at around 2600 fps, but I wasn't very happy with how fast that bullet expanded. I SHOULD have switched to the Barnes TMZ back then, but instead I went to the 300gr SST at around 2450 fps. My ML10-2 has a TacDriver stock from Richards Microfit. I don't remember its exact weight, but its in the 12lb range. With a 45 barrel, I'd like to get back down to the 250gr or even 225gr range. Might even tray some 200gr 40cals in sabots. Ideally, I think a 40 cal barrel would be a better fit for me, but I understand them to be a lot more picky, and they build pressure a lot faster. Without more load information floating around out there, I'm not sure I want to put the work into trying a 40 cal land rider yet.
 
Check with Zack at Old Dominion Custom Rifles. He has the ticket on a muzzle loader action at the best prices going. Zack is the pro on this. Tell him Tommy Roupe told you to call. Much better set up than a Remington 700 overall.
 
Regarding your damaged meat -- take that nasty looking, blood-shot area of your carcass and cut it out before you hang the rest of the deer. Throw it in a bucket of lightly salted water and let it soak for a day or so. It will "un-coagulate, and you can cut the decent meat out and keep it with the stuff you're making burger out of. You'll be amazed at how little you actually lose.

I shot my first dozen or so deer with a 243 Win, and the far-side shoulder often looked like a bomb had gone off. An old buddy who had handled more carcasses than I ever thought of, showed me the water bucket trick. Heart, liver, tongue, -- any trimming that you take off the main carcass goes in for later cleaning and appraisal. jd
 

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