Redding Competition seating die problem/ question

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Only one small item of input here-

When you are measuring outside neck diameter, be aware that Redding bushing dies do NOT resize the entire length of the neck, but only 1/2 more or less. Measure near the neck opening, not further down. You can verify this with Redding.

I've been wondering if this was part of his issue, too. The od of the unsized portion on the brass will be very close to chamber neck diameter, after a few firings. .343 is a common no-turn nd for a 308. Of course, it's only a no-turn if the brass isn't so thick that it needs turned for proper clearance in a given chamber.

That said, much of this thread just doesn't add up, or is subjective in nature...like "feel" with a stripped bolt, for example. If you have .016 thick brass and a 308 bullet, your loaded round will be very near .340. That loaded round diameter is very good in a .343 neck chamber. Is the unsized portion of the brass causing the "feel" of interference, by chance? Mark a case with a marker all over...chamber it a few times. see where it's rubbing. Also, you're getting a lot of stretch from your sizing operation. How much are you bumping shoulders back. I doubt it's the problem here, but will be a problem down the road i you're pushing it back too far. Everyone here is trying to help, but there are some far fetched solutions to what is most likely a simple fix. As I said several posts back...KISS...Keep It Stupid Simple, first. I highly doubt this to be some rare and unusual problem. The whole process is a simple mechanical one. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes is all it takes, too.

 

[SheepDog]

I would not use less time in the annealing process but rather use the annealing less often.Try annealing your brass every five firings rather than after each firing. Allow the brass to work harden between annealing it.
As I understand it, you are able to reload once without any problems but on the second reloading you get problems. The only thing that changes is the annealing so stop that step and try it without annealing cases for the first five reloads. Then anneal and fire the case five more times.

I wonder if there is more to this than just the neck. We have been concentrating on the neck size but are neglecting the shoulder diameter. It gets soft when annealing too and it might be spreading when you size or seat. Try chambering one of your rounds that stick after coloring the entire neck and shoulder area. The interference might not be where we are looking.

 

[CH Luke]

More excellent tips. Thank you all! Will provide some responses to explain and answer questions this evening after work.
With all this interest I do promise to keep any results updated here to return the favor. Please be patient as some of the suggestions can be implemented sooner while others will require that I wait until after Christmas to acquire some equipment.

 

[Brians356]

This thread feels like one of those bad dreams where you are being chased by a rabid dog, and it keeps gaining on you, and gaining on you, but never quite catches you. Or like ships passing in the fog at night.

CH Luke: May I ask what is (or was) your primary occupation?
-

 

[RonAKA]

I've been wondering if this was part of his issue, too. The od of the unsized portion on the brass will be very close to chamber neck diameter, after a few firings.

That is a good theory. Should be easy to check. Measure the necks of fired cartridges before and after neck resizing.

 

[Mikemontminy]

That is a good theory. Should be easy to check. Measure the necks of fired cartridges before and after neck resizing.

I had the same problem in a 308 with a tight neck also using the s.s. pins for cleaning. It turned out to be peening of the case necks from tumbling. I started chamfering the inside as well as the outside of the neck every time after cleaning the brass and the clambering problem went away. I also started using boiling hot water for cleaning and was able to cut my cleaning time down to 30 min and the primer pockets come out clean as well.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

How did inking up the brass work out? Did it show where the tight place is?

 

[CH Luke]

This thread feels like one of those bad dreams where you are being chased by a rabid dog, and it keeps gaining on you, and gaining on you, but never quite catches you. Or like ships passing in the fog at night.

CH Luke: May I ask what is (or was) your primary occupation?
-

Dog catcher. Used to be a tug boat captain.

Sorry. Couldn't help myself. Marketing now.

 

[CH Luke]

How did inking up the brass work out? Did it show where the tight place is?

Will do tomorrow. Migraine yesterday and a 90 minute snow blown drive home tonight wore me out unless I catch a 2nd wind here yet.

I haven't inked it yet but I'm 99% certain it's right at the mouth bullet junction.

 

[RonAKA]

Since you have Redding dies, it is not relevent, but out of curiosity I checked the bushings for my Forster Bushing Bump Die. They have no taper or step, and measure exactly the same at both ends of the bushing. I'm surprised that Redding puts a taper in theirs...

 

[John Russell]

Since you have Redding dies, it is not relevent, but out of curiosity I checked the bushings for my Forster Bushing Bump Die. They have no taper or step, and measure exactly the same at both ends of the bushing. I'm surprised that Redding puts a taper in theirs...

I have 17+ Redding bushings, and NONE have any taper. They are straight walled and were drilled straight through. I am not impressed with their "polishing", and do a finishing polishing with #2,000 grit silicone carbide W&D paper with oil.

 

[jlow]

Since you have Redding dies, it is not relevent, but out of curiosity I checked the bushings for my Forster Bushing Bump Die. They have no taper or step, and measure exactly the same at both ends of the bushing. I'm surprised that Redding puts a taper in theirs...

I think a slight taper is essential for a neck with an OD significantly greater than the ID of the bushing to enter.

 

[savagedasher]

I have 17+ Redding bushings, and NONE have any taper. They are straight walled and were drilled straight through. I am not impressed with their "polishing", and do a finishing polishing with #2,000 grit silicone carbide W&D paper with oil.

I think Redding puts a chamfer on the bushing but only one side . That is not a taper . They are probably reamed or honed . A drill doesn't make a round hole. Larry

 

[John Russell]

I think a slight taper is essential for a neck with an OD significantly greater than the ID of the bushing to enter.

Redding puts a 45° bevel at the mouth - the rest of the hole is straight walled.

 

[jlow]

I think Redding puts a chamfer on the bushing but only one side . That is not a taper . They are probably reamed or honed . A drill doesn't make a round hole. Larry

Larry, I think chamfer is indeed the correct descriptor. As to it being on one side for the Redding, I've always found it on both. Here is a photo I just took of one. The chamfer on the non-labeled side is actually easier to see.

 

[foxguy]

I have 17+ Redding bushings, and NONE have any taper. They are straight walled and were drilled straight through. I am not impressed with their "polishing", and do a finishing polishing with #2,000 grit silicone carbide W&D paper with oil.

John, can you explain in a little more detail how you polish the inside of the bushing? I have a couple I would like to polish.

 

[John Russell]

John, can you explain in a little more detail how you polish the inside of the bushing? I have a couple I would like to polish.

I buy #2000 grit silicone carbide paper (auto repair parts places carry it or find it on-line).
I take a steel drill that is smaller than the bore hole - and cut off the fluted part.
Then I wrap a small piece of double sided stickie Scotch tape around one end of the shaft.
Then I wrap a small strip of the 2000 paper around the steel shaft until the wrapped part is just slightly smaller than the hole in the bushing.
Then I chuck it in a 1/4" drill - oil it with my favorite light gun oil.
Put in the bushing bole and pull the trigger - takes about 5 minutes - the bushing might get hot in your fingers, so do it in stages until all of Redding's tool marks are gone.

It is easy peasy.

 

[jlow]

I buy #2000 grit silicone carbide paper (auto repair parts places carry it or find it on-line).
I take a steel drill that is smaller than the bore hole - and cut off the fluted part.
Then I wrap a small piece of double sided stickie Scotch tape around one end of the shaft.
Then I wrap a small strip of the 2000 paper around the steel shaft until the wrapped part is just slightly smaller than the hole in the bushing.
Then I chuck it in a 1/4" drill - oil it with my favorite light gun oil.
Put in the bushing bole and pull the trigger - takes about 5 minutes - the bushing might get hot in your fingers, so do it in stages until all of Redding's tool marks are gone.

It is easy peasy.

Having done polishing and sizing with the finished product, I can tell you that there is no need to polish the actual sizing part of the bushing. What needs to be polished is that chamfered area where the neck initially enter the bushing which can be a bit rough. I use an old bore brush with cotton and metal polish compound. Chuck the setup on a drill press and yes about 5 mins and watch the hot bushing. This gets only the bushing's chamfered area mirror smooth which prevents galling and you will not get scratches on your necks.

 

[John Russell]

John, can you explain in a little more detail how you polish the inside of the bushing? I have a couple I would like to polish.

I actually do two parts to it.

The bushings come from Redding with a 45° bevel (it does not deserve to be called a chamfer).

It is a sharp edge and the result of the 45° bevel on the case neck is this...

... which sucks !!!!!

So, I polish the bore, PLUS, I use a tapered thing that looks like a 30° cone with a 1/4-20 screw out the back (maybe a looooooooooong plumb bob).

I do the same double stickie tape and #2000 grit polish to the entrance of the bushing and polish and reshape it to be a soft feed for the case mouth.

Here is the polished bushing...

And here is the result - this case is clean because it was washed in Iosso case cleaner before sizing and loading.

You have to look hard to see the sizing step of the bushing (back 1/3 the way from the mouth end))

 

[jlow]

I actually do two parts to it.

The bushings come from Redding with a 45° bevel (it does not deserve to be called a chamfer).

It is a sharp edge and the result of the 45° bevel on the case neck is this...

... which sucks !!!!!

So, I polish the bore, PLUS, I use a tapered thing that looks like a 30° cone with a 1/4-20 screw out the back (maybe a looooooooooong plumb bob).

I do the same double stickie tape and #2000 grit polish to the entrance of the bushing and polish and reshape it to be a soft feed for the case mouth.

Here is the polished bushing...

And here is the result - this case is clean because it was washed in Iosso case cleaner before sizing and loading.

You have to look hard to see the sizing step of the bushing (back 1/3 the way from the mouth end))

I could be wrong but that looks to me to be a titanium nitride coated bushing. Not sure you want to polish that since it might remove the coating? That sharp edge from the bushing I don’t think I have ever seen. My problem with factory bushing is not that edge but the fact that it causes galling on the bushing and that scratches the neck. Interestingly your original bushing does not appear to scratch the neck at all?