Ran out of elevation

[kyotekiller25]

I think I'm going to try swapping the Nikon rimfire 4-12x40 that's on my 10/22 and see if that changes anything. It has more elevation, plus the adjustments are more coarse. Maybe with those 2 extra little things in the Nikon, I can at least get it zeroed at 50 yards. Then Ill jusy have to see if the Burris will work on the 10/22. Figure I'll try that first before ordering another pair of $80 rings and $20 inserts that I have absolutely no idea how to use. I've researched them a bit and watched a couple videos, they just seem super confusing to someone that's never used them.

What a giant pain in the butt this has turned out to be...

 

[kyotekiller25]

The BKL mount looks like a great idea. I've never heard of them. Looks like the drop compensated model might be the ticket since it adds some elevation, around a foot at 50 yards. For whatever reason, this thing seemed to shoot around 2 feet low at 50 yards.

I remounted everything and centered the reticle again with the Burris. Will take a big piece of poster board and see where the first 5 shots land at 25 yards and go from there. Dont feel like swapping scopes. Maybe we can figure this out together and see what the best route to go would be.

 

[pdog06]

Figure I'll try that first before ordering another pair of $80 rings and $20 inserts that I have absolutely no idea how to use. I've researched them a bit and watched a couple videos, they just seem super confusing to someone that's never used them.

They seem confusing at first but are actually pretty slick once you use a set.

For instance, say you wanna add 10moa of elevation. You would be using the +10 and -10 inserts and each ring uses one of each(they’re halves/2 halves make a whole).

To add 10moa:
-rear ring(+10 on bottom half/ -10 on top half)
-front ring(standard “0” inserts)
This raises the rear of the scope slightly, allowing for the increased elevation. Or you can use the 10’s in reverse in the front rings as well to give even more elevation.

Hopefully you don’t end up needing them, and you’re right they shouldn’t be needed for a 50yd sight-in, but that’s where you’re at and these can be your friend if all else fails.

 

[hogpatrol]

Have you looked through the scope while moving the elevation turret to make sure the crosshairs were moving? Have seen scopes that for whatever reason the crosshairs were locked and wouldn't move.

 

[boltfluter]

Just finished taking the scope and rings off, then remounting everything. I didn't find anything out of the ordinary. The rings are the same size, so it won't matter if you switch them or not. The objective is super close to touching, but you can still see some daylight and pass a .010" piece of cardstock under it. Also tried punching out the rear sight, but I wasn't able to.

View attachment 1671816

View attachment 1671817

View attachment 1671818

You are not understanding what he is saying. Everything in the machining world has a tolerance when it is manufactured. + or - .010 is very common for mass production of which your rings are when they are made. I have, many times, gained or lost elevation by swapping the rings front to back and it will cost nothing other than a little time. Hopefully my explanation makes sense. Good luck and keep us posted.
Paul

 

[kyotekiller25]

Would any of these possibly work from Area419?

I emailed 419 and they said they don't have one specifically for the BAR, but they sent the specs for the others and said one might work for me.

I have one on my CZ457 and it's been good.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

You would try reversing the rings, and flipping them 180°(torque wench from the left side of receiver) for better alignment. As the grooves in the receiver could be the issue. Or use the Burris signature rings, which will allow for poor receiver machining and/or barrel alignment. Attention to the position of the clamp on the ring base is also required as they can be also be inverted.

 

[RGRobinett]

Though the rings appear to be identical, mount the bottoms to the action and run a 1" Dia. lap through
them - very likely, you WILL be SURPRISED at the contact - more explicitly, the lack thereof! Also, as hinted at by hogpatrol (post #24), the turret may continue to turn, yet the reticle STOPS - THIS can damage the scope!!
The knobs should not be turned past the points where reticle movement cannot be observed. RG

 

[ELR LVR]

I know I have a Win 70, not a Pre-64 but pre 90's
That I had to put a 20 MOA rail on.....
just to get the scope to zero like normal
I would need a 40 MOA rail to get it to act like it had a 20 MOA rail
so for some odd reason, these things do happen

 

[kyotekiller25]

Just got back from the range. With the crosshairs optically centered, the first 5 shots at 50 yards were 17" low and 8" right. I came over to the left 8" and dialed up all I could which was roughly 12". Shot another 10 shots and they were still roughly 4.5" low at 50 yards. So that's where we're at! Doing the same exact thing. So it's either get a dovetail to picatinny, or Burris signature rings with inserts.

The other 2 10 shot groups were with the KIDD barreled 10/22.

 

[Peterson1]

Check PM's
CLP

 

[TC260]

I'll have to do some research on those Burris rings. They just seem like a PITA and unnecessary. Never had to use them in 30 years and 100s of rifles.

I'm in the same boat my friend. I don't recall ever having run out of elevation before but I'm dealing with a new to me rifle right now that's maxed out. Admittedly I didn't think to flip flop the rings so didn't mark them before taking them off but I'm going to try it even though I had already picked up a set of Burris rings and ring kit. The original rings are top quality but they're used and now thinking somebody may have monkeyed with them at some point.

 

[TC260]

The BKL mount looks like a great idea. I've never heard of them.

I've had good luck with BKL rings in the past. They were recommended to me years ago by some smallbore silhouette shooters