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Ran out of elevation

I'm not sure I've ever had this happen while trying to sight in any rifle in 30 years, but I ran out of upwards elevation trying to get this Browning BAR 22 zeroed at 50 yards. I'm topped out on the elevation turret and still 2-3" low from center. Not good...

I'm using a set of Warne medium height 22 rings and a Burris Fullfield E1 4-14x scope. Scope has 60 MOA of elevation and reticle was centered. The Browning has a grooved receiver. Quality rings and scope, everything is tight and set up properly.

So what gives?

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If this is an older scope that has been used and zeroed on several different rifles it probably needs mechanically zeroed before you do anything.
 
How would the receiver not be level? I'm fairly certain my dad has had a scope on this before.

I'll have to look into those Burris rings. Never used them before.

I'm going to take the scope off, look over everything, and remount it. Maybe I missed something. Doubt it, but I'll check. Pretty frustrating to have a quality rifle, rings, and scope and not be able to get it zeroed.
 
Objective lens is not in contact with rear sight? Obvious but had to ask. Occasionally a rifle needs the Burris signature inserts to regulate poi.

That's a good question. It is super close, but I can see daylight and slip a dollar bill through, so that shouldn't be the issue right? Maybe I'll take the rear sight out altogether if it's to close.
 
The specs on that scope show +\- 20MOA elevation from mechanical zero. If he’s out of elevation then the base isn’t level or the ring saddle height is slightly off
 
Have you shot this gun before with another scope on it? If so was it also using a lot of elevation?
Easiest is to do what BC’z suggested and get some Burris Signature rings for it and get the offset inserts. Or I have some inserts I can send you if you get the rings. If so LMK. I use those on almost all my guns and they work great. Don’t mark the scope either!
 
The specs on that scope show +\- 20MOA elevation from mechanical zero. If he’s out of elevation then the base isn’t level or the ring saddle height is slightly off

Yes, I see where the specs show a total of 40 MOA elevation travel, but I counted myself and came up with 60. 12 MOA per revolution, and it went around 5x. Either way, should be plenty to zero a 22 at 50 yards. Crazy to me...
 
Have you shot this gun before with another scope on it? If so was it also using a lot of elevation?
Easiest is to do what BC’z suggested and get some Burris Signature rings for it and get the offset inserts. Or I have some inserts I can send you if you get the rings. If so LMK. I use those on almost all my guns and they work great. Don’t mark the scope either!

I just got the rifle from my dad. It's been so long since we've had it out, but I know it's had a scope on it before and was able to get it zeroed. And I know it wasn't using warne rings or a Burris scope. Probably a set of cheap rings and a Tasco. That's what is driving me insane right now trying to figure this out.

I'll have to do some research on those Burris rings. They just seem like a PITA and unnecessary. Never had to use them in 30 years and 100s of rifles.

What do you mean by don't mark the scope?
 
Odds are a new Burris scope isn't the problem (or other name brand). Proper torque, ring alignment and scope clearance always need to be addressed. You could swap ring position and check screw torque while removing rear sight at same time. Of course scope will need to be adjusted back when problem is corrected.
If you needed to use quite a bit of windage, that will reduce the vertical adjustment available.
 
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If you go with the Burris Signature rings, make sure that they are taller than the Warne rings. Using the same height would probably cause the bell to touch the rear sight.
 
First I’d space the rings as far apart as possible, your level can go in front of the rear ring and the front ring can go forward some more.

You can add a shim under the scope on the rear ring with bedding compound and that would get you where you need to be too.
 
I have used the rings before and they worked fine on a CZ457 before I put a rail on it.

Everything has been torqued to spec.

I'll try swapping the rings from front to back and see how hard it is to punch the rear sight out. It is awfully close to the objective. But like I said, can see daylight, so it's not touching.
 
Just finished taking the scope and rings off, then remounting everything. I didn't find anything out of the ordinary. The rings are the same size, so it won't matter if you switch them or not. The objective is super close to touching, but you can still see some daylight and pass a .010" piece of cardstock under it. Also tried punching out the rear sight, but I wasn't able to.

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