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PPC info

potatoe

Silver $$ Contributor
I'm starting a PPC build, I've settled on a 13.5 twist finished around 23" with a .269 neck. I was wondering what freebore is popular with this kind of set up, I'll obviously be looking at 63-68 grain bullets, just wanting some input on load data(bullets, primers, powder etc.) and spec's. I'm looking hard at the Wilson seater die and a Harrel sizer. Pretty much an intro to PPC favorites would be more than welcomed.
 
My .262 neck reamer has a .060 freebore, and it works with most bullets just fine....however there are a couple that could use a shorter throat. Bart's Wedge, I believe, and Lester Bruno's 00 BTs. I have not tried either, but that is my understanding. Are you loading at the range? How are you set for wind flags? What components are you thinking of starting with? I might go with a smaller neck (than .269), so that I could retain the option of using the new, harder headed Norma brass. If you think that turning more off of necks is an issue, it isn't. On the other hand, given that I am now using more neck clearance, I might go with a little larger neck diameter, perhaps .263, which is what I believe Jack Neary uses. While we are on that subject, have you looked at his videos on Youtube? I managed to figure out how to download them onto my computer so that I can have them to study should they no longer be available on line.
 
Boyd: I was only planning on shooting the lapua brass. I've read some good things about .268-.269 necked PPC's. I'm not going to compete too seriously with this rifle, just the local shoots. I do not have wind flags yet (I know, I know) and I only planned on loading at the house. I was not afraid of the thinner necks (or the prep time) I'm going off of what I've read and heard about the thicker necks producing good groups.

Also how much neck clearance and tension are you using?
 
potatoe: If you haven't already done so, check out the article on this sites home page "Speedy's 6ppc- Art of Accuracy". Very informative I thought for those of us using the ppc.
 
Thx FD, I've snooped on here a good bit and have read that article. Also I have Mr. Boyer's book under the tree right now. I'm just trying to take in all opinions to have some good starting points
 
I would think that the .045 freebore would be one of the more popular setups. You can typically get the flat base and boat tail bullets to shoot with that freebore.

A call to Dave Kiff at PTG would let you know what is selling best right now as far as reamers.

If I was setting it up for informal shooting I would chose the thicker necks. A .262 neck is easy to ruin with a simple drop or die misalignment.
 
Jackie Schmidt has written the most about the thicker necks, and having tried both, says that there is no difference in accuracy potential. The one situation that I would consider them an advantage would be if I were shooting a rifle with an ejector. For that application there would seem to be an advantage. If you do use the thicker necks be careful not to try to use the same neck tension data that someone that is using a .262 neck is using. From what I hear, the thicker necks require quite a bit less reduction in diameter for the same bullet pull as the thinner ones. For my rifle, my favorite bullet has one of the larger pressure rings that I have measured, so I turn my brass to get a nominal clearance of .0025, which is probably more since reamers cut holes that are larger than they are. My neck tension is around .003. This is because I am using 133. On the loading at the range thing...barrels cost quite a bit per shot, when you are talking about match performance. I have friends who shoot big magnums for hunting that I have helped work up loads at the range. I have a scale box that shelters my balance scale from the wind, and which has the trickler inside with its handle sticking through a tight fitting hole in the side of the box. With this setup I load and the fellow who owns the rifle shoots, usually with some sort of extra shoulder protection to forestall a flinch. If the bedding is right, and the scope a good one, we leave the range with his load done, in less than a day. The same thing goes for my PPC, when I am trying a new powder or bullet, I run a pressure series at .3 gr. increments, using a guesstimate seating depth bases on experience, all shot on the same target, over flags on a morning when the wind is easy, FL sizing for every shot. When I get to a bolt lift that is tighter than I like, I record the temperature, humidity, and load data, and take a look at the target to see how the shots have clustered, looking for a series of powder charges where the point of impact did not change much as the powder volume did. Then I set my measure to the middle of that range and retest. If it looks good, I fiddle around with seating depth in increments of .002, in and out from where I started. Using this method, I have been able to work up loads in a very short time. I should mention that my whole reloading rig fits into a Harbor Freight aluminum skinned catalog case that opens at the top, and which weighs around 35#. Friends who think that loading at the range is too much bother generally may never get to a load that is quite as sharp, and they always have multiple trips to the range invested in the load that they do end up with. For shooting squirrels this is OK. Their accuracy needs are less, and because of that their usable barrel lives are longer, but none of this would work for matches. local or not. On the flags, while you are waiting to buy some real ones (I would take a look at Rick Graham's) some sticks with surveyors ribbon tied to the top would be a lot better than nothing. We don't do the load at the range and wind flag stuff because it is customary, or stylish, I would love to be able to get the same results without hauling all of the junk to the range. I can't. One of the most common things that I run on to is fellows that say they want to be able to get benchrest results but they do not want to do the whole package. They may end up with a few wallet groups, but that will be about the extent of it. I always tell my friends that if you want different results, you need to do something different, not just try harder using the methods that you have been using for years. Most o the time it is like water off a duck's back. I think that they are afraid that if they solve all their problems that they will run out of something to do with their hobby. What they don't realize is that even if they conquer the equipment, loading, and shooting technique issues, they will always have the wind to contend with, and learn about, and no one has ever completely figured that one out. Good luck with your project. I predict that you will have a lot of fun, and learn a lot in the process. I keep trying new things, and every so often one works.
 
Thanks for you detailed post. Loading at the range is not something at all that I've ruled out, I just didn't quite have the set up to make that work. My dies and presses are going to change a bit for this rifle, which will make reloading more commuter friendly.

I was also thinking of changing to the Leupold Comp 45x 45mm scope with the 1/8 min. dot. Have you used this scope, more specifically this reticule? If so what did you think?
 
They are good scopes, just make sure that yours is well supported. The tubes are thin, to reduce weight. (Always lap and round the inside corners and edges when mounting any scope, but especially for the competition series since their finishes seem to me to be delicate.) I have not spent much time shooting a dot, but they are popular. For someone on a budget, I think that the Weaver or Sightrons are a good value. For the former, I would shop around and buy new, because of warranty considerations. I use a cross hair reticle with a 6 o'clock hold on the mothball. The top edge of the cross hair touches the outside edge of the line that defines the mothball, with the vertical cross hair splitting the circle. I went to this because it is easier for me when dealing with mirage (pretty much all the time) at 200 yd. What kind of reloading equipment do you currently have? Most of it can be used at the range, with a little adapting. I have found that my Harrell's Combo Press works out very well for PPC work at the range. Any powder measure that has repeatable adjustments that are fine enough will work. Technique is the thing, and practicing it in conjunction with a good scale. Another route is the Chargemaster. Some very good shooters have gone to them.
 
potatoe said:
I'm starting a PPC build, I've settled on a 13.5 twist finished around 23" with a .269 neck. I was wondering what freebore is popular with this kind of set up, I'll obviously be looking at 63-68 grain bullets, just wanting some input on load data(bullets, primers, powder etc.) and spec's. I'm looking hard at the Wilson seater die and a Harrell's sizer. Pretty much an intro to PPC favorites would be more than welcomed.

Billy Stevens built my 6PPC with the traditional .262" neck and he used 45/1000ths of Freebore.

Component favorites: Bart's Ultra 68 grain Flat Base bullets, Lapua Brass, anywhere from 29.0 to 29.4 grains of N133 Powder with .003" to .004" of Neck Tension, A "square mark" at/near the Ogive for seating depth, and Rem 7.5 primers. Federal 205, and 205Ms are the more traditional.

I use the Leupold Competition scope 45X45 with fine crosshairs on both my 30BR and 6PPC.
 
Thanks again for the input. I'll look into the harrell's combo. I seem to have a little bit of time before it gets finished. I have managed to finish a few tasks, one I did break down and buy a nice Bat action. I'm quite pumped about that, both the action and barrel are on their way to Dwight Scott.

But I'm having trouble with the stock, since Robertson have closed their doors. I'm not crazy about the McMillan benchrest stocks, but I have been looking hard at the Kelbly's but not sure. I would like to have the ability to make this a 10.5 Lb. gun, do you know if these stocks are light enough to make weight? Any other manf.'s would be of a great help also.
 
Pretty sure McMillian modified their light/heavy benchrest stock designs. I have a new one purcahsed in the last year and it is more rounded than the one I bought 3 years ago. The older one has sharp rails to ride the front bag and the new one is more rounded in this area. I like the new version better as it functions the same, but it is more comfortable to handle the gun by the stock. Those sharp rails cut into your hands. I like both of them but like the new version better. Not trying to sell you on McMillian, but wanted you to be aware they have changed. I don't own a Kelby but from looking at them the new McMillian appears almost identical to the Kelby.

Both my McMillian stocks would make light varmint if set up correctly. The new stock has a BAT SV action, 22 inch light varmint barrel, 21 oz Sightron scope w/ Kelby double screw rings and it weighed 10.4 lbs.
 
potatoe: Have you checked out the Shehane Trackers, made by McMillan?

I have a Robertson & the Shehane's are close to the same.
 
fdshuster said:
potatoe: Have you checked out the Shehane Trackers, made by McMillan?

I have a Robertson & the Shehane's are close to the same.

I've kinda looked into them. The "baby" trackers are the only ones that seem like they can come close to making the weight. I currently own (even though I'm trying to sell it to pay for this build) an ST1000 which I really like. Do you know about how much they weigh?
 
One is an older one that someone ( not Bill Shehane) milled air vents into the sides of the forend, so that would effect the weight. Bill told me it had to have been done by someone else, as he does not believe in the side air vents.

The newer one I just got about 4 months ago, was glass pillar bed'd, and a rubber butt plate installed. It does have the very long forend, so it may not make the 10.5# weight limit. Does not matter to me as weight is not a consideration in our local BR for score match's. heavier is better (for me).

Why not contact Bill Shehane and put the weight question to him?

McMillan does make a very high quality stock, so that's a big plus for me.
 
The first thing I learned when starting to shoot a very accurate benchrest rifle was that shooting without windflags was just throwing money away. You learn absolutely nothing about how you or Tomyour gun is shooting if you don't know what the wind is doing to your bullet
 

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