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Pic Rail Contact

6-32 SHCS with torx plus drive socket.

Fastener choice caused me the most angst in the design process.

I chose this as the best compromise. I'm happy to discuss how I came to this choice if you're interested!
No that's fine I just couldn't see the fasteners in the pics and was wondering.
 
Just curious if you thought about adding a leveling feature to the scope mount like a wedge or a flat spot to stick leveling blocks.
 
Just curious if you thought about adding a leveling feature to the scope mount like a wedge or a flat spot to stick leveling blocks.
The top of the mount in between the rings is flat. You should be able to use that to get the bottom of the adjustment turrets parallel to the mount. (If I misunderstood your post let me know)
 
The taper will centre the rings. Yes -contact on the 'yellow" would be best, but, honestly, I have never looked. Nor has a scope fallen off and all hold zero for months.

The bottom “yellow” angles are designed to pull the flat bottom of the ring down hard against the flat top of the rail. Flat against flat resists tilting and the crossbar resists slippage.

It would not be physically possible for the flat top of pic rail and bottom of the ring to be pulled any tighter together, once both the top and bottom “yellow” angled surfaces were in contact with the corresponding clamp surfaces. Any further screw torque and compression beyond contact would just cause the pic rail to splinter the ring clamps like a hydraulic log splitting wedge does to a log.

The top yellow angle has to remain untouched, and it probably is just there to “dehorn” the rail or prevent interference of debris in what would otherwise be a corner.
 
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very nice work!!! Wish I had the patience to try it on my knee mill lol

I'm bookmarking your page. I just found this and unfortunately ordered a 30mm 1.45" from someone else last week. Maybe I won't like it and have to get another :)
 
Quick update - Still don't have a date for when the first of these will be for sale. It's going to be soon.

We have the laser marker up and making good marks on the parts.

I'm waiting to get a new style of media for my large vibratory finisher - I have parts out to a supplier and they are running tests to find what works best.

Hope to have that resolved this week yet. After that is sorted we will send the first "production" batch to anodize and should have some beautiful new scope mounts for sale within a few days!

My optimistic side says before the end of the month. (That side is usually wrong)
 
Update:

I got the finishing samples done - then had to wait 3 weeks to get media - shortages you know.

Back on track - I think I have everything I need. Will let you know!
 
Bump, any progress?
Yes!

I know it's been a long time - we have had nothing but trouble with the finishing processes (bead blast, anodize). Part of the problem is that I'm super picky, but there have been enough issues with damaged parts from the anodizer's bead blast process that I made the painful decision to bring it in house. We are currently building a simple, semi automated bead blast machine. It should be ready for trials very soon.

We have tried various samples without bead blast, trying to get a matte finish with extended etch time with some success - but there are always problems with about half the parts having greyish colored streaks. I'm told this is a common defect with 7075 anodize when you extend the etch time.

If anyone has experience on how to get mostly perfect, matte 7075 hard anodized parts, I'm all ears!
 
Yes!

I know it's been a long time - we have had nothing but trouble with the finishing processes (bead blast, anodize). Part of the problem is that I'm super picky, but there have been enough issues with damaged parts from the anodizer's bead blast process that I made the painful decision to bring it in house. We are currently building a simple, semi automated bead blast machine. It should be ready for trials very soon.

We have tried various samples without bead blast, trying to get a matte finish with extended etch time with some success - but there are always problems with about half the parts having greyish colored streaks. I'm told this is a common defect with 7075 anodize when you extend the etch time.

If anyone has experience on how to get mostly perfect, matte 7075 hard anodized parts, I'm all ears!
I have hundreds of parts ready for anodize - can't send them until this gets properly sorted.
 

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