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On beam scales part two

Mr. Seven said:
@sparker Are the old Hornady Pacific scales worth tuning or particularly accurate?
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I have one. It's old and beaten up.

Been testing the repeatability, remove and replace the pan, check zero, repeat.

I found that the scale is affected by not being level across the beam pivots. It needs to be dead level across the pivots.

It is also affected by air circulating in the room.

Under webcam magnification, it measurably deflects with one kernel of powder.

I don't use it for weighing the charge, just for trickling up to a preset.

Not as sensitive as a Lee, but not as repeatable - yet. Still fiddling
 
As many of you know, I use the cheapest powder thrower there is to throw charges, the Lee. I have developed a technique that allows for a much closer range of thrown charge weights. This along with my Redding oil dampened scales allows me to load at quite a fast clip. Is it as fast as V4 or whatever it is called now? No, but it is not far behind. It does require you to pay attention and a little acumen. However, for approx $225, you have a very efficient powder charging system that measures to the kernel.
 
These are unfortunately sold. I’d love to keep them. I will look for more brown body #2s. They are great scales. If using two at a time, the world is your oyster with regard to charging. Interchangeable pans is key!
 
Scott, can you please elaborate on your comment about using two scales at a time? What is your powder charging process? I have two of your tuned M5’s and love them. Thanks.
 
You really need to have their calibrations matched and the pans be interchangeable. Otherwise you would need to always know which pan was in hand. That said:

I’m right handed so I have my powder thrower on my right. I have my two scales in front of me both in full view. I have my tricklers placed so as to feed directly into each pan. I charge one pan, put it on the scale and then repeat with the 2nd one. By the time I’ve placed the 2nd one, the first one has completely settled out. I trickle in the last two or three tenths in to each and then charge two cases.
 
sparker said:
You really need to have their calibrations matched and the pans be interchangeable. Otherwise you would need to always know which pan was in hand. That said:

I’m right handed so I have my powder thrower on my right. I have my two scales in front of me both in full view. I have my tricklers placed so as to feed directly into each pan. I charge one pan, put it on the scale and then repeat with the 2nd one. By the time I’ve placed the 2nd one, the first one has completely settled out. I trickle in the last two or three tenths in to each and then charge two cases.
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Try out a Lee thrower, the $28 dollar one! With long extruded powder I would say 40% are dead nuts no trickle needed, 5% a hair over, so I just dump and recharge, 40% are within a 1/10th under and 15% max 2/10th under. It will under throw way more under than over throw once you get the feel. This Is with H4350. And with Varget I am more like 65% dead on no trickle needed. I did time once doing 30.5 gr Varget charges and I think it worked out to easy 3 loads a minute without crazy rushing, or close to 100 in half hour if can do it without a break! good enough for me!

Can you do it much faster than that with 2 scales? I dont use pans anymore so no splash/spill. I took a 35mm film canister and cut it down to use as the pan. The heavy blue frankford trickler works best for me. Have tried a bunch including the vibro ones. Saturn funnel +ergonomic placement of all the gadgets.

As you well know there is a trick to trickling up with same consistency of swing to get consistent weighs. The Lee is very easy to fine tune so with semi log powder like Varget I can tune it in closer to zero. If there is an over charge you can see it quickly on how it swings so you can pull off, dump and recharge before the needle would have even settled above zero to indicate it was too much.

I only check weigh and zero my desired load at full weight with the Lyman kit. It is a balance beam so the actual weight is not as critical as consistent weight. If I am off a 1/10 of 'atomic' actual weight makes zero diff as that is my load and it is measured consistently. And next time it will be the same.

I used to dread the powder stage in reloading until I reverted back to balance beams from electronic. Now it is an entertaining efficiency game !
 
I have not tried the dump and run method of late. It is certainly worth revisiting. I use the Lee and recommend it to everyone needing a powder thrower. In going from one scale to two, I have not seen an increase in SD on the chronograph. My load time however has certainly gotten shorter.
 
Scott, thanks for sharing your methods. It’s always interesting to hear what you have to say on the use of beam scales. You’ve got me wanting one of your matched dual oil-dampened Redding setups now!

Tesoro, thank you also for sharing your methods. Lots of good info there!
 
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