No one, I mean no one moly coats like me...

[urbanrifleman]

like speedy i hope everyone uses it

Speedy never really liked anything that didn't come from Speedy.

 

[Alexander-M]

Urban,
If you posted it already, I somehow missed it, and I apologize.

Otherwise, exactly how do you moly coat your bullets - details?

Thanks!
Alex

 

[#40Fan]

You might have a run for your money, urbanrifleman. Wet moly coated 100 6.5 bullets and boy do they look shinny. My dry method still looks really good, but not quite as well as the wet moly. Thanks for starting this thread otherwise I might have never known about it.



Dry on the left and wet on the right.

 

[NCVarhtr]

I have been using moly for over 20 years. A few years ago, I started the wet method. I break in my barrels with naked bullets and clean thoroughly. It mighty take me two days to get the barrel completely clean. Then, I coat with a moly cream and use moly coated bullets exclusively. I have read all the crap about the problems associated with moly but my borescope tell me that my barrels like it very much. I have never had a problem and enjoy the benefits of long strings of shooting with cleaning. One of the best benefits is that the second and third shot from cold barrels go where the first shot went. Another benefit is I don't get "cold welding" from bullets that have been loaded a while. There are always those that want to put down a new product or something they really don't understand. Moly is a great aid and I really enjoy all the benefits from using it. You don't have to use it but you would be smart if you did......

 

[Mozella]

That was my issue with wet coating a while back was the poimt filling up with wet moly. But i will revisit the acetone and denatured alcohol as a solution

No need if you have a heat gun. After you wash the bullets, dry them in a metal baking pan lined with paper towels. Replace the wet towels with new dry paper towels and shake back and forth to dry and shine the bullets. Then get your heat gun and heat them as you shake some more. You will notice small black dots on the paper towels lining the pan as the water is driven out of the points. I let them cool a few minutes and heat them up again just to be sure. The shaking/polishing/drying time is only about 90 seconds or two minutes long depending on the number of bullets, then a 5 minute rest, and a second heat cycle. The bullets come out real shiny and look at least as good as the ones in the pictures at the beginning of this post...................and the Moly will NOT rub off.

I suppose acetone/alcohol would be OK, but it costs money and you have to get rid of some solvents when you're finished. I like my heat-gun method.

By the way, I'm not sure my Moly coated bullets do anything good or bad for my barrels, but it acts as a perfect lubricant for bullet seating without individually handling each case and applying a dab of lube with a cotton swab.

 

[eric32]

That makes sense, thanks for the idea.

 

[Capt. Oblivious]

Like this?

 

[boltfluter]

Like this?

That's impressive! ! Nicely done.

Paul

 

[urbanrifleman]

No need if you have a heat gun. After you wash the bullets, dry them in a metal baking pan lined with paper towels. Replace the wet towels with new dry paper towels and shake back and forth to dry and shine the bullets. Then get your heat gun and heat them as you shake some more. You will notice small black dots on the paper towels lining the pan as the water is driven out of the points. I let them cool a few minutes and heat them up again just to be sure. The shaking/polishing/drying time is only about 90 seconds or two minutes long depending on the number of bullets, then a 5 minute rest, and a second heat cycle. The bullets come out real shiny and look at least as good as the ones in the pictures at the beginning of this post...................and the Moly will NOT rub off.

I suppose acetone/alcohol would be OK, but it costs money and you have to get rid of some solvents when you're finished. I like my heat-gun method.

By the way, I'm not sure my Moly coated bullets do anything good or bad for my barrels, but it acts as a perfect lubricant for bullet seating without individually handling each case and applying a dab of lube with a cotton swab.

Yes, this is correct.

This is the method I posted on my website in 2013, and I shared it back then.

http://www.theurbanrifleman.com/2013/04/11/wet-moly-coating-method/

I have a bucket of acetone/alcohol I use for final dip when wet tumbling brass. I use the same bucket and an old lettuce strainer to dunk the bullets. Dipped bullets come out even shiner and more clean, but it certainly is not necessary. I suggest the real trick is the shaking in the cake pan on the paper towels. Don't be afraid to do this several times!!

 

[D Coots]

the 2,3,4,and 6-71 were all inline,,the 8 , 12 and 16,were all V type engines,,most blowers were all 6-71 type

FWIW Detroit made the 6-71 in an in line version and a 6V-71. The 8V-71 is the main culpurt behind the oil leaking Detroit jokes. The inline motors were exceptionally dry.

Later
Dave

 

[pirate ammo]

FWIW Detroit made the 6-71 in an in line version and a 6V-71. The 8V-71 is the main culpurt behind the oil leaking Detroit jokes. The inline motors were exceptionally dry.

Later
Dave

and the 16v-71 were just two v8's bolted together

 

[rogn]

When I got involved with bullet coating,I started with WS2 because it had the lowest coefficient of friction. Reportedly a tad cleaner to work with and no rumors of barrel damage. Moly did have some reports of building up deposits. So anyhow the WS2 has worked well in practice with over 65 shots with no sign of deterioration in accuracy. Ive tried working with hBN and I havent been happy with the coating that Ive gotten so far. That leads me to a question and that is the differences I see in coating in different batches. Some are shinier some are a bit fuzzy. All done in the container with the same components. I dont see much difference in the coating if I degrease or dont.
Of the three I like the idea of hBN the best, but I need to get to feeling better satisfied with the appearance of the HBN coatings. Appearance is the only measuring tool I have for the coatings prior to shooting trials. Just not ready to start them.
The variation in batches brings about the question about the variables in the shooters/poster's areas or ambients. Someone shooting in Maine, or south Ca, Kansas or Southern FL's gulf coast where its humid enough in warmer months that fish could fly if they had wings. Any inconsistancy in impurities, granular structure, humidity, temperature, phase of moon or any other thing else could make the batches different. Any difference could certainly lead to differences in behavior such as built up deposits or induced corrosion. In other words anyone could be correct in their own situation, OR they may have ,even unknowingly, worked any bugs out of the system.

 

[Baddog0302]

two points and two question,
Point one is that most use the term "tumbler" as if they are referring to actual rotary tumblers like the Franklin Arsenal tumbler that is used in wet case cleaning with SS pins. Where in fact they are actually talking about and using vibrator type case cleaners
Point two, is in the form of an "ask me how I know" when using a rotary type tumbler with a container { peanut butter jar} or small Gator aid container, make sure the containers rotate on the same axis as the tumbler. If you place the containers at 90* to the tumblers axis you will get a lot more tumbling action, ie. a "head over heels" action but also, will damage the HP points on BTHP bullets . "Ask me how I know"
Question one, if wet "tumbling" produces a better / deeper coating on the bullet, does anyone have an explanation as to why ?
Question two, has anyone wet tumbled using either a rotary or vibrator tumbler using either HbN or WS2

 

[michaelbz]

Has anyone tested the pH of their Wet Moly slurry? I would be interested to know. One of my theories is you are partially depositing MoO3 on the bullets using the wet method.

 

[Mozella]

....... snip............
Question two, has anyone wet tumbled using either a rotary or vibrator tumbler using either HbN or WS2

I tried wet HbN using both water and alcohol. I could not detect any change at all and was unable to determine if any HbN got deposited or not. Unlike black Moly which is easy to detect, a coating of the white HbN is apparently transparent in thin coatings, or perhaps it looked transparent because nothing got deposited. The bullets didn't feel different nor did I see anything resembling a coating using high magnification which was short of using a microscope.

By the way, my wet Moly tumbling process involves using a dedicated Walmart plastic applesauce jar which has a "grip" molded into it so that as it rotates it flips the bullets quite effectively. The top and bottom of the jar are round, so it turns nicely. I rotate it with a cheap "double wide" Harbor Freight rock tumbler for about 90 minutes.

 

[daj]

Question two, has anyone wet tumbled using either a rotary or vibrator tumbler using either HbN or WS2

I could not get HbN to coat the bullets with the wet method in a dedicated vibratory tumbler but WS2 worked beautifully, just like Moly.

 

[JRS]

two points and two question,
Point one is that most use the term "tumbler" as if they are referring to actual rotary tumblers like the Franklin Arsenal tumbler that is used in wet case cleaning with SS pins. Where in fact they are actually talking about and using vibrator type case cleaners
Point two, is in the form of an "ask me how I know" when using a rotary type tumbler with a container { peanut butter jar} or small Gator aid container, make sure the containers rotate on the same axis as the tumbler. If you place the containers at 90* to the tumblers axis you will get a lot more tumbling action, ie. a "head over heels" action but also, will damage the HP points on BTHP bullets . "Ask me how I know"
Question one, if wet "tumbling" produces a better / deeper coating on the bullet, does anyone have an explanation as to why ?
Question two, has anyone wet tumbled using either a rotary or vibrator tumbler using either HbN or WS2

hBN is insoluble (incapable of dissolving) useless you mix it with acid.

 

[Baddog0302]

hBN is insoluble (incapable of dissolving) useless you mix it with acid.

Acid, probably not something mild that won't damage skin or SS .
Well crap, that means it won't mix with alcohol to make a slurry for coating / conditioning bores after cleaning.

 

[338 dude]

I moly wet. Then rinse until clear in water. Polish on a bed of paper towels. Bath in acetone. Final polish on paper towels.

LIKE STEEL BILLETS.

I bathed in acetone first to remove the oil’s I also use the wet method it works great the final polish after they are dry is in a long tube sock rolling from one end to the other we Call it milking the cow

 

[338 dude]

No need if you have a heat gun. After you wash the bullets, dry them in a metal baking pan lined with paper towels. Replace the wet towels with new dry paper towels and shake back and forth to dry and shine the bullets. Then get your heat gun and heat them as you shake some more. You will notice small black dots on the paper towels lining the pan as the water is driven out of the points. I let them cool a few minutes and heat them up again just to be sure. The shaking/polishing/drying time is only about 90 seconds or two minutes long depending on the number of bullets, then a 5 minute rest, and a second heat cycle. The bullets come out real shiny and look at least as good as the ones in the pictures at the beginning of this post...................and the Moly will NOT rub off.

I suppose acetone/alcohol would be OK, but it costs money and you have to get rid of some solvents when you're finished. I like my heat-gun method.

By the way, I'm not sure my Moly coated bullets do anything good or bad for my barrels, but it acts as a perfect lubricant for bullet seating without individually handling each case and applying a dab of lube with a cotton swab.

Heat gun also!!!!