I am about to take the plunge and buy a nightforce. The question that many ask is which retical to go with. I have done all my research but the questions still remains. I think I want a ranging retical. Im am going to put it on my F-Class 6brx. My major question is, is the NP-R1 really the way to go for F-Class? Will it work out for me? Or should i just get a CH3 retical?
Nightforce scope?
- Thread starter Josh11
- Start date
GSPV
A failure to plan is a plan for failure.
Why do you want a ranging reticle on an F Class rifle?
I shoot VFS, not F Class, but I can't imagine wanting a complex reticle under competition pressure.
I have a CH3 and a Np2DD. I'm good with either. Actually prefer the CH3. Think I'm in the minority there.
FWIW, Greg J
I shoot VFS, not F Class, but I can't imagine wanting a complex reticle under competition pressure.
I have a CH3 and a Np2DD. I'm good with either. Actually prefer the CH3. Think I'm in the minority there.
FWIW, Greg J
xdeano said:
Ditto
I cannot stress enough, you need to look through the scope and see what works best for you. I made the mistake of buying a "busy" reticle and I took a bath selling it.
Chip
Chip
Well the only problem I have with looking through one is, there is not a dealer within over 100 miles of me. I like the idea of hold off, plus I might have to take the rifle deer, or prairie dog hunting. As long as the crosshairs are fine enough too see a good portion of the target at 600 yards. Thats what Im worried about.
The utility of the R1 is this: [br]
If you miss a change and a shot blows out left to the "8" ring, you hold right to the "8" as long as the condition stays. Simple. Except when the mirage is so heavy that you cannot see the scoring rings. In San Diego and Phoenix, this is a frequent enough occurrence to warrant a plan to deal with it. [br]
At the reference magnification of 22X, the R1 hash marks represent 2 MOA. At 30X, where I usually shoot, they are 1.47 MOA, close enough to 1.5 to call it that. At 42X, they are 1.05 MOA or close to 1 MOA. Those three magnifications cover the range for me and, since I seldom change magnification during a string, I just remember what value the reticle represents at the current magnification. [br]
Chip makes a valid point but the R1 has not bothered me in that regard as much as the CH1 did when mirage was heavy.
If you miss a change and a shot blows out left to the "8" ring, you hold right to the "8" as long as the condition stays. Simple. Except when the mirage is so heavy that you cannot see the scoring rings. In San Diego and Phoenix, this is a frequent enough occurrence to warrant a plan to deal with it. [br]
At the reference magnification of 22X, the R1 hash marks represent 2 MOA. At 30X, where I usually shoot, they are 1.47 MOA, close enough to 1.5 to call it that. At 42X, they are 1.05 MOA or close to 1 MOA. Those three magnifications cover the range for me and, since I seldom change magnification during a string, I just remember what value the reticle represents at the current magnification. [br]
Chip makes a valid point but the R1 has not bothered me in that regard as much as the CH1 did when mirage was heavy.
I use the NP2DD. Mostly because it leaves my field of view much more open to keep a eye on conditions. (what the mirage is doing) I also like the tapered lines. They naturally draw your eye to the dot. Many times I hold off, and for that I just use the target itself for holding points. Lots of rings and numbers on the target that can be use for hold off.
I looked through a NXF model today. A guy had one that was a 22x and had a MLR retical. I kind of liked it but wasnt my favorite. I am wondering if someone could take a picture of the target knob of a benchrest model for me. If its not too much to ask. Ive been looking around but cant find a picture anywhere. I want a knob that I can dial from 100-1000 with out getting lost. The scope I have now is a T36. The rotation lines are way too close. This makes it hard to dial and not get lost. If someone could post a picture, it would make me decide one way or another one which model to get. Thanks a ton.
NXS scopes can be purchased with either 1/8 MOA clicks or 1/4 MOA clicks. The Benchrest models all have 1/8 MOA clicks. If you do not like lines close together, you should probably get a 1/4 MOA NXS. My BAT F-Open rifle has an 1/8 MOA NXS. The finer clicks are useful as it is <1/4 MOA from center to the edge of the X-ring.
effendude
Gold $$ Contributor
Josh,Josh11 said:
My BR models have 6 MOA per roatation with 1/8 MOA clicks. My NXS models have 10 MOA per rotation with 1/4 MOA clicks. I don't have any high speed turret models but I believe that will give you 20 MOA on a revolution. I don't know if you can get the high speed turret with 1/8MOA clicks. You are still going to have to pay attention to where the standard knob is going from 100 to 1000 as you will have a few turns on it.
I sell Huskemaw scopes which have 1/3 MOA clicks so 20 MOA can be derived from one revolution. These scopes are designed for long range hunting and work well. Most of my customers can get a custom turret that goes from 200 yards to 900 or so shooting a VLD bullet out of a magnum rifle. Some will get to 1000 with 20 MOA, but not many.
My friends, Aaron and Mike Davidson of Gunwerks have worked with Nightforce to create a custom turret for hunting that will get 20 MOA with yardage marks inscribed on the turret. It might get you close.
Good Luck,
Scott Olson
Nemadji Outfitting
I have 4 different NF scopes. All with a different reticle. Three on "match" guns, and one dedicated hunting scope. I can honestly say that to me it don't matter a hill of beans which one I am looking through....."heat of battle" or not!!! In fact, I was asked the other day which retical was on my LG at last years IBS 1K nats, and I had actully go and look through the scope, cuz I didn't have a clue!! Of course, some will argue that I NEVER have a clue...about ANYTHING, so take that for what it's worth. The only time I EVER cared about which reticle is in my scope is in a hunting situation....for hold over and windage holds.....then it is MONDO IMPORTANT!!
The 42x is nice to have When you can use it. Some claim that they can sit on the 1000yd line and shoot 42x all day long. They claimed it so much I went and got my eyes checked as it was time for it anyway. I have 20/20 vision but for the life of me after 9:30am in the summer time I can't see nothing at 42x and usually I'm at 26x to 36x depending on how bad mirage is. My last build I was forced to go with the 8x32 for amount of come up in the 42x did not have enough. I want even get into that because to many ppl that just wouldn't understand the issue, and it would put a bad mark on a Great company! Anyway the 8x32 is working out great and is plenty of power to see plenty out to 1000yd for Fclass and I am very satisfied with the 32x. I only got to use 42x when I shot the first Relay. So there wasn't a big lost for me at all. I hope this helps!
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