Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Find out what morse taper it is and buy one off ebay. Theyre pretty cheap
New lathe due diligence.
- Thread starter Shrek
- Start date
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
I haven't used a center in the spindle bore in years. When I need to turn between centers I chuck-up a piece of CR in the 3 jaw and turn a 60* point on it and use that for my headstock center never removing it from the chuck until the task is finished. The tail on the bent tail dogs I have catches on one of the chuck jaws. Works for me. You'd best get holders and inserts ,,,, it'd be a shame if you learned anything about tool geometry! I learned with rocker tool posts on engine lathes. Much to be learned that way. The big 4 way or QC tool post might be more ridgid, but heavy speeds/feeds aren't used on barrels, anyway. That little Logan isn't stout enough for real heavy cutting. But hey, that's all old school machinist stuff.
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shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
2 pieces of 1 1/4" ply wood glued together to make a 2 1/2" thickness for the top? I was thinking more like a piece 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate, myself. You don't need leveling feet under the stand, you'll need to shim under the the lathe where it mounts to the stand. Shim just the bed end, if you can. If you fasten the lathe to the stand and put leveling legs under the stand you'll never be able to remove any twist there might be in the ways.
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Just a general note about your lathe. I had basically the exact same lathe for about a year and it did work great for barrel work. Mine was a well used machine and I got sick of the wear everywhere on the machine. I ended up doing a complete restoration (including ground and scrapped ways) on a South Bend 10L, and I found a Clausing 5914 so I picked that up too. Why not have two! I love both! Both work good for barrels.
One thing to look for on those logans is on the gearbox there are no bushings for the shafts like on other higher end lathes, so you can get wear, which needs to be drilled and bushed if you want to fix them properly. I've owned several Logans and never had one with shot bearings, so unless they were really used hard, those usually hold up. Other than that, they are good machines and parts do pop up on eBay every once in a while. Be aware that it does have quite a few 11" specific parts and only a handful of 10" Logan parts swap over, but there are a few.
If my old Logan wasn't completely worn out, I probably would have kept it.
One thing to look for on those logans is on the gearbox there are no bushings for the shafts like on other higher end lathes, so you can get wear, which needs to be drilled and bushed if you want to fix them properly. I've owned several Logans and never had one with shot bearings, so unless they were really used hard, those usually hold up. Other than that, they are good machines and parts do pop up on eBay every once in a while. Be aware that it does have quite a few 11" specific parts and only a handful of 10" Logan parts swap over, but there are a few.
If my old Logan wasn't completely worn out, I probably would have kept it.
I don't think that this Logan has been abused so it should be good to learn on but I'm keeping my eye out for a nicer machine still. A Clausing 6300 or LeBlond 15 servo shift or who knows. I'm enjoying play around getting this together and running . Next thing I'll want is some kind of mill.
It's never ending pertaining to newer or better machines. That Logan will be nice and with time you'll figure out exactly what you want and need. I learned gunsmithing on a 6914 Clausing and I got use to the clutch/brake system. It's a really nice feature and it was a change working without one for a couple years. That's the main reason I picked up my 5914. Good luck with your Logan, looks like a nice machine, and you got some good accessories with it. You should be able to make a few $$ when you are ready to sell it. You did OK with your purchase price IMO.
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
You learned 'gunsmithing' on a lathe? You might have figured out how to cut a chamber, crown, or thread for muzzle attachments, but it can't teach you all a gunsmith needs to know to really BE a gunsmith.
First , let me be clear that I have no intentions of becoming a gunsmith ! I don't have near the patience for the work if it's not mine and second it would take all the fun out of playing with my own stuff and turn it into work. I did that to my first love which was fishing and now I haven't been fishing in years.
Now , my next question is should I wire it 110v or 230v ? I haven't run any power yet and the motor will run on both so is there any benefit to the 230v ? I have the panel 10' from where I want the outlet and three blanks available so I could run both a 110 and 230 outlet with no problem.
Now , my next question is should I wire it 110v or 230v ? I haven't run any power yet and the motor will run on both so is there any benefit to the 230v ? I have the panel 10' from where I want the outlet and three blanks available so I could run both a 110 and 230 outlet with no problem.
Dave I really think the time and energy that you spend on the inner web would be better spent with licensed electricians and welders needed to install your lathe properly . I live in Florida and can tell you wood is not going to work as a platform for your lathe . No matter how many coats of paint or preserve you put on the wood it's going to expand and contract with the oil running off the machine , not to mention the humidity , even if AC is used ( which it should be ) . Your question are really border lining on the absurd , sorry but get a basic book , how to run a lathe "
I have how to run a lathe and will be reading it a little at a time as I go. I'm taking the bench to a friends house to be reworked into a steel bench if possible. The electrician is coming next week but he doesn't use machines so I want to check with those who do to see if there was any quality of work difference. I've gotten every question answered I needed here without burning up my friends phones at all hours. Only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask !
Re. Rocker tool post
Back in 1950 and on before the wide spread use of Aloris type tool posts I used this type of tool holding.
Take a tool holder with built in rake insert a sharpened tool bit sticking out app. 3/4" remove the tool post from the compound.
Rest the tool holder on the compound and measure the height from the top of the tool bit and the center of the lathe spindle.
Use a piece of tough steel 4140 or tougher and turn a ring the same od. id. as the rocker plate and an appropriate thickness as your height measurement.
Install your lantern post on the compound slide your newly machined ring on the post install your tool holder in the post, your tool is now on center.
You can turn your tool holder to any angle and retain your center height you can also exchange previously prepared tool holders and maintain your height. If you have to sharpen the tool bit slide it in or out of the tool holder to get your height.
Back in 1950 and on before the wide spread use of Aloris type tool posts I used this type of tool holding.
Take a tool holder with built in rake insert a sharpened tool bit sticking out app. 3/4" remove the tool post from the compound.
Rest the tool holder on the compound and measure the height from the top of the tool bit and the center of the lathe spindle.
Use a piece of tough steel 4140 or tougher and turn a ring the same od. id. as the rocker plate and an appropriate thickness as your height measurement.
Install your lantern post on the compound slide your newly machined ring on the post install your tool holder in the post, your tool is now on center.
You can turn your tool holder to any angle and retain your center height you can also exchange previously prepared tool holders and maintain your height. If you have to sharpen the tool bit slide it in or out of the tool holder to get your height.
An electrician that doesn't know the reason for using 220 ? Listen , I'm all for learning , electrical and using a lathe are dangerous ! Do yourself a favor , read the book and as many others you can find , understand why I think your questions are getting borderline , then take a class before you hurt yourself . There are proper ways to govern yourself when working , proper clothing , hair , jewelry etc . I wish you luck , but I'm done . I do not want to contribute to unskilled , untrained , uneducated beginners getting hurt .
Good luck
Good luck
hpshooter
Gold $$ Contributor
First off let me make it clear that I am not a machinist but do own and operate a couple lathes, a 9x42 vertical mill, a surface grinder and a horizontal bench mill. So in many respects I am where you want to eventually be. Being able to do your own machine work is very satisfying and you will continue to learn as long as you are doing it.
I will offer the following advice. Ask around the range, you may well find a mentor in a retired machinist or someone with a few years experience. Even a small relatively low powered machine tool can hurt you quickly and seriously. I had the advantage of having a machinist grandfather and grew up with a lathe and horizontial mill in my fathers shop and was given instruction on them at an early age and a year of instruction in the engineering lab while in college. If you have access to a local trade school or community college that still teaches classes in manual machines consider taking at least an introductrory class in basic machine tool operation.
No one is trying to put a damper on your enthusiasm, to the contrary, many of us have seen the results of serious machine tool accidents that happened to experienced operators and want to encourage you to approach things in a cautious and educated fashion. It is not rocket science but the hazards can sneak up on you.
Can you successfully learn by trial and error? Certainly. Can you learn quicker and less expensively (IE broken tooling, damaged equipment and possible medical bills) with an experienced mentor or an established entry level training course, definitely.
I will offer the following advice. Ask around the range, you may well find a mentor in a retired machinist or someone with a few years experience. Even a small relatively low powered machine tool can hurt you quickly and seriously. I had the advantage of having a machinist grandfather and grew up with a lathe and horizontial mill in my fathers shop and was given instruction on them at an early age and a year of instruction in the engineering lab while in college. If you have access to a local trade school or community college that still teaches classes in manual machines consider taking at least an introductrory class in basic machine tool operation.
No one is trying to put a damper on your enthusiasm, to the contrary, many of us have seen the results of serious machine tool accidents that happened to experienced operators and want to encourage you to approach things in a cautious and educated fashion. It is not rocket science but the hazards can sneak up on you.
Can you successfully learn by trial and error? Certainly. Can you learn quicker and less expensively (IE broken tooling, damaged equipment and possible medical bills) with an experienced mentor or an established entry level training course, definitely.
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^^^ +1000. Machining done properly is a safe avocation. But all this machinery has open rotating things that can kill you in an instant or be very disfiguring. There are also flying pieces that just love to find your eyes and some are impossible to get out without surgery.
The Gerstner machinists chests have a little mirror in the lid when open. This was placed in there so a machinist had a mirror to get a small chip out of his eye. When these chests were first introduced most machine shops didn't have much in the way of sanitary facilities much less a washroom with a mirror. Protective eyewear didn't exist.
The Gerstner machinists chests have a little mirror in the lid when open. This was placed in there so a machinist had a mirror to get a small chip out of his eye. When these chests were first introduced most machine shops didn't have much in the way of sanitary facilities much less a washroom with a mirror. Protective eyewear didn't exist.
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