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New lathe due diligence.

I think the wear you see on the threading dial is just the way it's suppose to be . Cut that way for a reason . I've never seen a worn threading dial .
 
I think the wear you see on the threading dial is just the way it's suppose to be . Cut that way for a reason . I've never seen a worn threading dial .
I think you are right about that. Went to work on it today and first thing I did was drop the gear box lid on the tip of my right index finger. I will loose the nail and it's black already :(. Haven't gotten much done after that...
 
No need to drill it , it relieved itself out the front and up through the crack in the center of the nail...so I got that going for me :)
 
Just in case my procedure is no longer approved , has any other used a sed hot pin or a wire drill to relieve the pooled blood under a crushed fingernail ? I have been doing this since my father taught me .
Any others doing it ?
Gary
 
More times than I care to remember. Both methods were SOP in the first aid rooms of both foundries I worked in.
 
What are you guys using as a reamer holder ? Any of them way better than the rest ! I have a six space indexing holder for the tail stock and a rocker style and 4 cutter bit indexing holder for the compound rest. What do I need ?
I was cleaning the chucks up and they're both made in the US Buck chucks out of Kalamazoo. 6" 3 jaw scroll and 4 jaw independent. The small chuck is a Bison 4"-1"-10 three jaw scroll that I don't think goes with this lathe. Everything is working smoothly . There's a Falls ball bearing center for the tail to go with the #34 Jacobs. I got right , left , straight , boring , knurling cutters to fit the holders. I have guages for the dill bit angles and inside and outside take off tools. An angle measure. There was a couple of vernier calipers and a Starrat #120 dial calipers in the box. Other than the tools mentioned what else do I need ?
 
Some experience making some tools and other stuff before you work that first barrel. That rocker tool post and holders call for HS tool bits. Need to learn to shapen those. Practice threading.
 
Take the rocker tool post off and put the four place on. Not that you'll use all 4 places but the rigidity if the 4 place is magnitudes better. You'll need to get/buy/make shims to bring the tool point to center with that one so I suggest that you get an "assortment" of shim stock from mscdirect.com and cut some off. You'll want brass or steel and shim stock up to .032 thick. You can stack it to get the thickness you want.

The problem with the rocker tool posts is rigidity and every time you adjust it your tool geometry changes. Not a very good system.

Mac also sells a small indexable carbide insert set that takes triangular inserts. Might want to buy a set of those.
 
20160213_154400.jpg 20160213_154354.jpg 20160213_154332.jpg 20160213_154324.jpg 20160213_154400.jpg 20160213_154354.jpg 20160213_154332.jpg 20160213_154324.jpg [QUOT="shortgrass, post: 36710473, member: 1277707"]Some experience making some tools and other stuff before you work that first barrel. That rocker tool post and holders call for HS tool bits. Need to learn to shapen those. Practice threading.[/QUOTE]
That is the plan but I'm trying to figure out if I have any glaring holes in my tool collection that I can get coming while I figure out the best course of action for the bench and get the 230v line run. Getting the pieces to add leveling feet welded on will be next week some time along with belts. Then I've got to decide on the best top for the bench. I think that's going to be two pieces of 1 1/4" plywood that they use for container flooring glued together to make a 2 1/2" top to fit in the frame. I bought the manual and downloaded it but my tablet won't open it :( ! Very frustrating.
 
I can certainly buy a better tool holder if needed. I have a question about the 8" backing plate , what's it for ? The 8" chuck screws on and there are no studs or screw holes on the plate.
 
The back plate is to mount parts on to turn. Id get an aloris copy toolpost and some indexable carbide tool sets and put all that stuff back in the box like it was. Nothing worse than trying to learn to run a lathe with tools that may have some weird geometries ground in
 
Are you talking about the back plate with the slot in the edge? If so, that is a lathe dog drive plate. You have a small lathe dog in the second picture of your second post.
 
I'm guessing a large lathe dog would allow you to turn a peice too big to fit in the chuck. Not sure where it would apply to something that can go into the chuck but I'm sure I'll llearn.
 
No , just a small one that matches the size of the lathe dog in the picture. I'm sure I can turn one once I get up and running.
 

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