New 6XC Build
- Thread starter 806guns
- Start date
You are the man! I like it, this next build will either be in a old pss h&s stock or a krg bravo
urbanrifleman
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If anyone wants one of these 6xc Tubb Remage prefits (the same as his--same batch) I will throw in a free barrel nut or recoil lug.
Build number 2 had begun, bought this one for $300 mid 2000's date code. I might be on the naughty list for this one. Barrel will be here on Monday plus other goodies, thanks to @urbanrifleman
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urbanrifleman
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Score!!
urbanrifleman
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What is your bench setup?
Wanting to build a shooting platform about 3-5ft off the ground. Lay prone and shoot up to 600 yards on my property.
urbanrifleman
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I would use dirt and sod it.
My first pdog bench is in my attic. It looks just like that.
I can up to 200 yards. My old man built this one who knows how many years agoI would use dirt and sod it.
My first pdog bench is in my attic. It looks just like that.
urbanrifleman
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I mean for your shooting platform. Dirt is cheap and you can always move it. I'm guessing someone has a front loader haha
Mine looks pretty much like this One, Above ^^^^ only with, Desert Tan / Black spider splotches for, color.
Pillar Bedded and glass bedded, Front lug area, Tang area and, 1 1/2 " of, the Barrels "Shank" portion ( Free floated, the Bal of Bbl. ) then lightly "Relieved" around, the Nut ! I set Headspace, lightly touching on Norma Brass ( No case, stretch'um ) The Criterion, .104 FB, 1-7.5 Twist, shoots, 80's, 95's and Berger 108's into, One Hole,..
( usually, in the Low, mid, 3's ) I think I can get that, group size, down into, the 2's W more "Tuning" ( hopefully ).
Nice looking Rifle, I hope it shoots, GREAT for, You !
Keep us, Posted on it's,.. progress !
Pillar Bedded and glass bedded, Front lug area, Tang area and, 1 1/2 " of, the Barrels "Shank" portion ( Free floated, the Bal of Bbl. ) then lightly "Relieved" around, the Nut ! I set Headspace, lightly touching on Norma Brass ( No case, stretch'um ) The Criterion, .104 FB, 1-7.5 Twist, shoots, 80's, 95's and Berger 108's into, One Hole,..
( usually, in the Low, mid, 3's ) I think I can get that, group size, down into, the 2's W more "Tuning" ( hopefully ).
Nice looking Rifle, I hope it shoots, GREAT for, You !
Keep us, Posted on it's,.. progress !
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@ 806guns,..
You can try it, on New Petersen cases AND,.. Use, the "Go" Gage to "double check" them, just in case, the Petersen cases, turn out to be,.. "Small". ( You want the Cases to Fit well but, RELY on, the Go gage ! )
I used, 2 New Norma cases that, I "felt" were, Dimensionally, "Correct" to make sure that, they Fit and, then, Bolt "almost" closes on, the Go Gage ( went down on it about 1/2 way, VERY, Tight on Go and Stopped ). Then I put, 2 thin, Layers of Electrical Tape ( About .006 - .008 Thick, combined ), on the Back of the "Go Gage" for use as, the NO Go ( My Bolt, wouldn't even, Start to close, on IT ). The Key is getting Bbl and Nut screwed down with Bolt closing "Tightly" on, the GO Gage to,.. barely close on it .
I used, Blue Lithium Grease on, the inside of, my Action ( on, the Threads ) and a couple of Drops of Blue Loctite on, the Nut's inside, threads. I De-greased everything, FIRST ( Lithium allows, the Barrel to come out, later, IF desired and Loctite on Nut threads, doesn't let it work "Loose" from, Recoil / Vibration.
Approx., 200 Hundred Rounds thru my Rifle and NO "Issues" with Headspace or, Case,.. STRETCHING.
There are a couple of, Vids on YouTube to, "double check" the Process ! I'd watch them, BEFORE attempting !
I wrote down Everything down that, I wanted to, DO,.. step by Step from, Notes taken, on Vids.
Once, the Case is IN your CLEAN Chamber, Torquing the Nut, becomes, a little "Tricky" to get the Proper, HS "Fit" so don't Crush, the Brass cases, as Torquing the Nut, will make "Things" even, tighter ( Check and Re-check THIS stage ).
Good Luck and Be,.. Safe !
You can try it, on New Petersen cases AND,.. Use, the "Go" Gage to "double check" them, just in case, the Petersen cases, turn out to be,.. "Small". ( You want the Cases to Fit well but, RELY on, the Go gage ! )
I used, 2 New Norma cases that, I "felt" were, Dimensionally, "Correct" to make sure that, they Fit and, then, Bolt "almost" closes on, the Go Gage ( went down on it about 1/2 way, VERY, Tight on Go and Stopped ). Then I put, 2 thin, Layers of Electrical Tape ( About .006 - .008 Thick, combined ), on the Back of the "Go Gage" for use as, the NO Go ( My Bolt, wouldn't even, Start to close, on IT ). The Key is getting Bbl and Nut screwed down with Bolt closing "Tightly" on, the GO Gage to,.. barely close on it .
I used, Blue Lithium Grease on, the inside of, my Action ( on, the Threads ) and a couple of Drops of Blue Loctite on, the Nut's inside, threads. I De-greased everything, FIRST ( Lithium allows, the Barrel to come out, later, IF desired and Loctite on Nut threads, doesn't let it work "Loose" from, Recoil / Vibration.
Approx., 200 Hundred Rounds thru my Rifle and NO "Issues" with Headspace or, Case,.. STRETCHING.
There are a couple of, Vids on YouTube to, "double check" the Process ! I'd watch them, BEFORE attempting !
I wrote down Everything down that, I wanted to, DO,.. step by Step from, Notes taken, on Vids.
Once, the Case is IN your CLEAN Chamber, Torquing the Nut, becomes, a little "Tricky" to get the Proper, HS "Fit" so don't Crush, the Brass cases, as Torquing the Nut, will make "Things" even, tighter ( Check and Re-check THIS stage ).
Good Luck and Be,.. Safe !
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urbanrifleman
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A that really matters is that your die matches the headspace.
If you have a gauge add a piece of tape to the back of the gauge and run the barrel down hand tight and set the nut.
That's zero headspace plus .002. Perfect.
So will that mean my first rifles headspace it too tight ?
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