need help from expert benchrest stock finisher

[lrgoodger]

I only have one week. I can't put 40 coats on this thing and wait a week between each coat. I originally finished it with wipe on poly, but I was not happy with how grabby it was in the cordura bags, so I sanded it all off and I want to do it right this time. The wood is some kind of light, foreign wood that looks like a slightly reddish tinted walnut. The grain is a little open, not nearly as open as oak but not as tight as cherry.

1. Given that there may still be faint traces of poly in the deeper grain crevices , what should I use for sealer that can be covered with automotive clear coat?

2. How many coats of sealer? I would guess at least two, sanding in between.

3. Is it possible to get automotive clear coat in a spray can and do a good job in 5 days?

I need a good, hard finish that will slide well in cordura bags.

 

[pdhntr]

I only have one week. I can't put 40 coats on this thing and wait a week between each coat. I originally finished it with wipe on poly, but I was not happy with how grabby it was in the cordura bags, so I sanded it all off and I want to do it right this time. The wood is some kind of light, foreign wood that looks like a slightly reddish tinted walnut. The grain is a little open, not nearly as open as oak but not as tight as cherry.

I guess I don't consider myself an "expert benchrest stock finisher" but I am a stock maker that has many years of knowledge of finishes including auto clear coat, poly and oil finishes.

1. Given that there may still be faint traces of poly in the deeper grain crevices , what should I use for sealer that can be covered with automotive clear coat?

2. How many coats of sealer? I would guess at least two, sanding in between.

If the original finish has been on the stock for some time then it has set up, and you won't need a sealer. If you sanded down to the wood you are good to go. However, you will still need to build coats of what ever you use if you don't want the grain showing. I would build coats, (fill the grain) with what ever you use to do the final finish. Auto clear fills very well and quickly. Probably the fastest way to fill the grain.

3. Is it possible to get automotive clear coat in a spray can and do a good job in 5 days?

No on both questions. True auto clear is a two or three part mixture that sets up like epoxy. It must be mixed and used usually within a couple of hours of mixing.

You might be able to have it cleared at a local body shop when they are shooting a repair, and it MAY set up in time for your next match. I wouldn't bet on it though. The solvents used soak into the wood and take a couple of weeks to vaporize through the finish. Stocks that I have used auto clear on, I usually let sit for at least three weeks or until I can't smell any solvents from the finish. Until then they are soft and can't be rubbed out.

I need a good, hard finish that will slide well in cordura bags.

Minwax Spar Urethane in the spray can, but you can't get it done in a week. If you eventually want to do the spar urethane send me a PM and I can help you with the details.

Jim

 

[Preacher]

2 days after the final clear coat is applied, I'm setting in front of the buffer with it..
I have switched from NAPA's clear to one I get from Eastwood.com...
I spray one day, let it dry for a day, and then wet sand it and dry it for a day, then right back to spraying again...
You can buy Auto clear in a spray can but they don't recommend letting it set in the sun for a very long time..

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Put some stock tape on it for now so you can go shoot your match, then do the job right when you have time. Make sure you use a high solids clear coat if you want it to slide in the bags nice.

 

[lrgoodger]

Stock tape is what I'm trying to get away from. You have to heat that stuff up with a hair dryer to even peel it off. At least that's the way the stuff I got from Bruno's was.

I know a guy who clear-coats stocks and he told me he would not spray a stock that had been previously finished with an oil based product (polyurethane). I think he said it causes problems with what he uses. I sanded the heck out of this stock and can see no trace of the polyurethane left, but I suppose there might be traces in the deeper grain fissures.

Does anyone know of a reason why you can't do an automotive clear coat over a well sanded stock that used to have poly on it? The poly was on there for over a year and I only did two very thin coats of minwax wipe on poly.

I'm not so much after a high gloss finish as I am to get a hard, smooth surface that slides well in the bags.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I meant use the stock tape for the time being untill you can do the job right. If the other finish is fully cured I dont see why he can't spray over it. I have done it, and had no issues. Stock tape still slides better than clear coat in all the stocks I've done. The break away friction is lower.

 

[jonbearman]

Sometimes I think the body shop guys give weird answers because they dont want to do it in the first place or maybe its the vap's.LOL However ,the best clear like preacher was eluding too is very expensive and can cost upwards of 250.00 per gallon is the only kind that will really do the job.The cheaper one's when exposed to alot of heat and sunlight will eventually start to flake off and crack. The super high quality like eastwoods will do the trick.Send it to preacher after the match and never look back.