My Savage died

[jelenko]

Hohn, having never done a savage nut prefit is there anything you would add to the video above? I noticed in the video they used the action wrench and said not to use a barrel vise. I have also read to tighten barrel down on go-gauge then back off just a hair before tightening nut, and also to remove go- gauge when torquing nut. I have no idea if the last sentence was correct or not. Thanks!

I started with an action wrench, but use a barrel vise now. When using a barrel vise, you do have to keep the action from moving when you tighten the barrel nut. For me, the action has moved on ~ 20% of the barrels I've installed.
Not sure the point about tightening with the no go gauge in. The procedure is to get the action on so with the GO gauge in until the action just stops on it. Then, REMOVE the go gauge and tighten it. Then, check with the no go gauge in case the action moved.

As mentioned, it takes 15 minutes from starting to finishing. Can keep extra barrels around so you can change at any time. Or, change a barrel just to see if the problems are with the barrel or the shooter.

 

[jelenko]

Probably in the ballpark of $600 would be closer

Wouldn't it be just the cost of the barrel? [Assuming you've already got the tools/gauges]?

 

[memilanuk]

The action isn't 'moving'... that's the slack in the threads between the barrel, receiver and the nut being taken up. One to two thou is not uncommon with factory barrels or pre-fit.

 

[338 dude]

Wouldn't it be just the cost of the barrel? [Assuming you've already got the tools/gauges]?

I was going with gauges and possibly a nut wrench if he’s having a Smith do is work he probably doesn’t have anything like that

 

[memilanuk]

A 'premium' contoured barrel blank costs $300-400+, with most (Krieger, Bartlein, Brux, etc.) in the $330-375 range. Then another $200-400 to chamber it, plus anything else (thread the muzzle, coating, etc.) depending on the 'smith.

Or you can order a pre-fit Criterion or Shilen for $350, or get a fancy pre-fit from a shop like Southern Precision Rifle (bugholes.com) or Patriot Valley Arms for somewhere in between. Heck, even Krieger offers direct order pre-fit now.

 

[jelenko]

Ah, right. About $200.

 

[jelenko]

The action isn't 'moving'... that's the slack in the threads between the barrel, receiver and the nut being taken up. One to two thou is not uncommon with factory barrels or pre-fit.

If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.
I just use a padded, grippy work glove to hold the action and slowly tighten the nut. After a point, the action won't move.

 

[Rsadams]

A new barrel and gun smith is all you need... Sounds alot like BS... A little research and some tools you get to keep for life after purchase... Doesn't get much easier than re-barreling a Savage.. As far as copper fouling , there's plenty of threads right here on how to get rid of it... Once again it's not that hard...

 

[carlsbad]

barrels are a consumable. Saying it 'died" is like saying your car is dead when it needs new tires.

 

[memilanuk]

If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.
I just use a padded, grippy work glove to hold the action and slowly tighten the nut. After a point, the action won't move.

Still not sure what you're talking about, or why you'd care?

Snug the barrel down on the go gauge by hand, tighten the nut with the wrench which will take up any slack in the threads, and eject the gauge. With a pinned recoil lug, it's not like the action is going anywhere.

 

[jelenko]

Still not sure what you're talking about, or why you'd care?

Snug the barrel down on the go gauge by hand, tighten the nut with the wrench which will take up any slack in the threads, and eject the gauge. With a pinned recoil lug, it's not like the action is going anywhere.

Just replying to the post about the action not moving.
And, to confirm, we're both talking about using a barrel vise, not an action vise - yes?

 

[DirtySteve]

Buy a good prefit and be happy with more cash in your pocket..

 

[memilanuk]

And, to confirm, we're both talking about using a barrel vise, not an action vise - yes?

99% of the Savage barrels I've replaced have been with a barrel vise, so yes.

 

[jelenko]

Yeah. I think I know what the difference is. I've only replaced barrels that have a barrel nut in Eliseo chassis' - they don't have a pinned recoil lug. => I have no idea how it would work in a 'normal' stock.

 

[Hohn]

Hohn, having never done a savage nut prefit is there anything you would add to the video above? I noticed in the video they used the action wrench and said not to use a barrel vise. I have also read to tighten barrel down on go-gauge then back off just a hair before tightening nut, and also to remove go- gauge when torquing nut. I have no idea if the last sentence was correct or not. Thanks!

I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.

Ideally, snug the barrel down on the go gauge with the nut well backed off, then use tape on action and barrel (two separate pieces) and mark them as perfectly aligned.

Then spin the nut down and experiment with the amount you back off the barrel until you hit the torque you want just as the tape edges realign perfectly.

Done this way, my .223 would close on go gauge but not on the same gauge with 0.002 thick cellophane tape on the back. I’m somewhere within 0.002” of minimum. And that took like three attempts at back off and tighten to achieve.

ANYBODY can do this.

 

[JFrank]

Ideally a person would have go and no gages ,that’s what I used anyway.
J

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.

Ideally, snug the barrel down on the go gauge with the nut well backed off, then use tape on action and barrel (two separate pieces) and mark them as perfectly aligned.

Then spin the nut down and experiment with the amount you back off the barrel until you hit the torque you want just as the tape edges realign perfectly.

Done this way, my .223 would close on go gauge but not on the same gauge with 0.002 thick cellophane tape on the back. I’m somewhere within 0.002” of minimum. And that took like three attempts at back off and tighten to achieve.

ANYBODY can do this.

Thank you Sir, that was very well explained. Great idea of having the alignment marks, and confirming that the barrel will move some when the Savage nut is torqued down.

 

[1shot]

You check. Leave him out of it

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That right there.

 

[Dgd6mm]

Buy the Daniel Defense (joke). Oh, and your Savage didn't die, just my opinion from what I've read here.

 

[MGYSGT]

Lots of powder in a 6.5. If you are shooting fast all the time, the heat will destroy your barrel pretty quickly. 1500 rounds could do that if you shoot fast all the time.