jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
Wouldn't it be just the cost of the barrel? [Assuming you've already got the tools/gauges]?Probably in the ballpark of $600 would be closer
Wouldn't it be just the cost of the barrel? [Assuming you've already got the tools/gauges]?Probably in the ballpark of $600 would be closer
I was going with gauges and possibly a nut wrench if he’s having a Smith do is work he probably doesn’t have anything like thatWouldn't it be just the cost of the barrel? [Assuming you've already got the tools/gauges]?
If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.The action isn't 'moving'... that's the slack in the threads between the barrel, receiver and the nut being taken up. One to two thou is not uncommon with factory barrels or pre-fit.
If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.
I just use a padded, grippy work glove to hold the action and slowly tighten the nut. After a point, the action won't move.
Just replying to the post about the action not moving.Still not sure what you're talking about, or why you'd care?
Snug the barrel down on the go gauge by hand, tighten the nut with the wrench which will take up any slack in the threads, and eject the gauge. With a pinned recoil lug, it's not like the action is going anywhere.
And, to confirm, we're both talking about using a barrel vise, not an action vise - yes?
I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.Hohn, having never done a savage nut prefit is there anything you would add to the video above? I noticed in the video they used the action wrench and said not to use a barrel vise. I have also read to tighten barrel down on go-gauge then back off just a hair before tightening nut, and also to remove go- gauge when torquing nut. I have no idea if the last sentence was correct or not. Thanks!
Thank you Sir, that was very well explained. Great idea of having the alignment marks, and confirming that the barrel will move some when the Savage nut is torqued down.I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.
Ideally, snug the barrel down on the go gauge with the nut well backed off, then use tape on action and barrel (two separate pieces) and mark them as perfectly aligned.
Then spin the nut down and experiment with the amount you back off the barrel until you hit the torque you want just as the tape edges realign perfectly.
Done this way, my .223 would close on go gauge but not on the same gauge with 0.002 thick cellophane tape on the back. I’m somewhere within 0.002” of minimum. And that took like three attempts at back off and tighten to achieve.
ANYBODY can do this.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^You check. Leave him out of it
So since i haven't worn out any of my three savage 6.5cm's yet and i don't load them hot or shoot them hot what round count can i expect them to live to? The highest round count i have is 850 in the 110 tactical which is still doing 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 groups at 300yds. It has simply been used with American gunner. The other two run on my loads which aren't loaded hot either.
