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My Savage died

The action isn't 'moving'... that's the slack in the threads between the barrel, receiver and the nut being taken up. One to two thou is not uncommon with factory barrels or pre-fit.
 
A 'premium' contoured barrel blank costs $300-400+, with most (Krieger, Bartlein, Brux, etc.) in the $330-375 range. Then another $200-400 to chamber it, plus anything else (thread the muzzle, coating, etc.) depending on the 'smith.

Or you can order a pre-fit Criterion or Shilen for $350, or get a fancy pre-fit from a shop like Southern Precision Rifle (bugholes.com) or Patriot Valley Arms for somewhere in between. Heck, even Krieger offers direct order pre-fit now.
 
The action isn't 'moving'... that's the slack in the threads between the barrel, receiver and the nut being taken up. One to two thou is not uncommon with factory barrels or pre-fit.
If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.
I just use a padded, grippy work glove to hold the action and slowly tighten the nut. After a point, the action won't move.
 
A new barrel and gun smith is all you need... Sounds alot like BS... A little research and some tools you get to keep for life after purchase... Doesn't get much easier than re-barreling a Savage.. As far as copper fouling , there's plenty of threads right here on how to get rid of it... Once again it's not that hard...
 
barrels are a consumable. Saying it 'died" is like saying your car is dead when it needs new tires.
 
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If you're using a barrel vise instead of an action wrench, the action can move with the nut as you tighten it.
I just use a padded, grippy work glove to hold the action and slowly tighten the nut. After a point, the action won't move.

Still not sure what you're talking about, or why you'd care?

Snug the barrel down on the go gauge by hand, tighten the nut with the wrench which will take up any slack in the threads, and eject the gauge. With a pinned recoil lug, it's not like the action is going anywhere.
 
Still not sure what you're talking about, or why you'd care?

Snug the barrel down on the go gauge by hand, tighten the nut with the wrench which will take up any slack in the threads, and eject the gauge. With a pinned recoil lug, it's not like the action is going anywhere.
Just replying to the post about the action not moving.
And, to confirm, we're both talking about using a barrel vise, not an action vise - yes?
 
Yeah. I think I know what the difference is. I've only replaced barrels that have a barrel nut in Eliseo chassis' - they don't have a pinned recoil lug. => I have no idea how it would work in a 'normal' stock.
 
Hohn, having never done a savage nut prefit is there anything you would add to the video above? I noticed in the video they used the action wrench and said not to use a barrel vise. I have also read to tighten barrel down on go-gauge then back off just a hair before tightening nut, and also to remove go- gauge when torquing nut. I have no idea if the last sentence was correct or not. Thanks!
I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.

Ideally, snug the barrel down on the go gauge with the nut well backed off, then use tape on action and barrel (two separate pieces) and mark them as perfectly aligned.

Then spin the nut down and experiment with the amount you back off the barrel until you hit the torque you want just as the tape edges realign perfectly.

Done this way, my .223 would close on go gauge but not on the same gauge with 0.002 thick cellophane tape on the back. I’m somewhere within 0.002” of minimum. And that took like three attempts at back off and tighten to achieve.

ANYBODY can do this.
 
I bought the action clamp from NSS as pictured in the CBI video.

Ideally, snug the barrel down on the go gauge with the nut well backed off, then use tape on action and barrel (two separate pieces) and mark them as perfectly aligned.

Then spin the nut down and experiment with the amount you back off the barrel until you hit the torque you want just as the tape edges realign perfectly.

Done this way, my .223 would close on go gauge but not on the same gauge with 0.002 thick cellophane tape on the back. I’m somewhere within 0.002” of minimum. And that took like three attempts at back off and tighten to achieve.

ANYBODY can do this.
Thank you Sir, that was very well explained. Great idea of having the alignment marks, and confirming that the barrel will move some when the Savage nut is torqued down.
 
Lots of powder in a 6.5. If you are shooting fast all the time, the heat will destroy your barrel pretty quickly. 1500 rounds could do that if you shoot fast all the time.
 
So since i haven't worn out any of my three savage 6.5cm's yet and i don't load them hot or shoot them hot what round count can i expect them to live to? The highest round count i have is 850 in the 110 tactical which is still doing 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 groups at 300yds. It has simply been used with American gunner. The other two run on my loads which aren't loaded hot either.
 
So since i haven't worn out any of my three savage 6.5cm's yet and i don't load them hot or shoot them hot what round count can i expect them to live to? The highest round count i have is 850 in the 110 tactical which is still doing 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 groups at 300yds. It has simply been used with American gunner. The other two run on my loads which aren't loaded hot either.

probably 2800
 

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