Rusty Chamber....again

[Rsadams]

I have a Savage 10 myself and I live in Central Texas so it's hot and extremely humid.. I have not ran into your problem and haven't shot the gun in a year but do check it and all of them about every 6 months or so... I simply run an oily patch after cleaning of slip 2000 ewl and use foaming bore cleaner myself.... I would stop using that stuff , that's twice it has happened to you... I think you have figured out the problem... My Savage 10 was checked about 2-3 weeks ago and no signs of rust anywhere... It's happened to your gun twice since I last shot mine... My storage conditions are the same as yours....

 

[C.E.Smith043]

The first time this happened I was using Federal ammo. I do use a bore guide so that is an interesting point.

Are you shooting with a suppressor on?

 

[Clancy]

Hundreds and hundreds of cleanings and not a single issue. I do follow it with oil.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Hundreds and hundreds of cleanings and not a single issue. I do follow it with oil.

Chrome moly barrel?

 

[Clancy]

Chrome moly barrel?

Some of them, yes.

 

[Bill K]

Clean you rifle as you do after shooting, but then keep using the Hoppe's or better yet, put a very light coating of EESOX or BALLISTOL in the chamber/bore. Think you will find that your rifle will stop showing signs of rust, in between use.

 

[screaminweasil]

I've been using Corrosion X for my "gun oil" for a few years now................AWESOME>

I also use Boretech C4 Carbon cleaner as a "final clean" after soaking (over night usually) with Outers Foaming Gun Cleaner. (Also Awesome@@).

I never have rust, but I store with Corrosion X in my bore following swabbing out all the Boretech C4 Carbon cleaner with patches.

And, as mentioned, sweaty fingers on the brass can certainly cause rust in the chamber. Been there, done that.

Before shooting any of my rifles. I run a single dry patch through them to swab most of the corrosionX out and then go shooting. First shot fliers are NON existant, fowling is reduced, and my barrels/chambers are never rusty.
CorrosionX is LEGIT

 

[urbanrifleman]

If you want a final wash coating BALISTOL is great stuff. So is this other stuff that @AckleymanII turned me on to (I cannot remember what it is called). Also consider, SUPER SLICK STUFF as a final wash out you can get it at Lowes.

 

[leclairk]

I have a Savage 10 myself and I live in Central Texas so it's hot and extremely humid.. I have not ran into your problem and haven't shot the gun in a year but do check it and all of them about every 6 months or so... I simply run an oily patch after cleaning of slip 2000 ewl and use foaming bore cleaner myself.... I would stop using that stuff , that's twice it has happened to you... I think you have figured out the problem... My Savage 10 was checked about 2-3 weeks ago and no signs of rust anywhere... It's happened to your gun twice since I last shot mine... My storage conditions are the same as yours....

I think you’re right on the money

 

[AckleymanII]

I have used Eezox for nearly two decades, added Hornady one shot after the tests that I read that are remarkable. Frog lube did wel in the test also.

Having a Rossi single shot, 12ga, it became a test for the Hornady one shot. I sprayed the shotgun down and left it in my hay barn for six months. Not tiny bit of rust after 6 months, actually Forgot about it. The barn has one large 10x7 door open on the front and a side opening that are always open to elements

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...un-cleaner-with-dyna-glide-plus-10-oz-aerosol

I think that the main thing is to use something vs nothing.

 

[urbanrifleman]

One thing that is particular nice about Super Slick is that it dries to a slick finish. It is not wet after.

 

[divingin]

I was breaking in a barrel, virgin brass, so a lot of cleaning involved (Eliminator)..got too where I was doing 5 shots per..cleaned barrel, went at it again, brass fell on a thick moving pad, cleaned again..during cleaning process went too pick up brass..it was sticky? Wiped them down, put back in case holder, got home and a few hrs. latter, I pulled the brass out..some had black spots and a few had my finger print on them? I'm sure I didn't get the rod guide fully seated (good O-ring). Put the bad ones in electric screwdriver, most of the ''black'' came off, but can still tell witch ones got Eliminator on them...My fault no doubt. Eliminator work's when Properly used.

Eliminator has whatever BT uses to dissolve copper. Brass contains copper. No surprise that there's a reaction.

FWIW, I keep bore cleaning chemicals well away from my brass (though, come to think of it, I did try using BT C4 to wipe some carbon off the necks once, but made a point to rinse and wipe with water afterward. No effect as far as I could tell.)

 

[George Foster]

I have been using Bore Tech Eliminator for quite a few years now on my Chrome Moly barrels and haven't had any problems at all.

 

[Rick300]

I've been using Corrosion X for my "gun oil" for a few years now................AWESOME>

It is AWESOME stuff. Doesn't freeze either. Had to warm up two other hunters rifles last year to un-freeze them. Re-lubed with Corrosion X and no more problems.

 

[Prose]

Boretech is water based. Boretech claims it’s a short term inhibitor by saying that it won’t rust steel for at least two weeks after applying it. How’s that for a stretch!

That said, it’s the best bore cleaner I’ve ever used.