Leveling an action before leveling a scope.

[fyrewall]

There is another gadget called the Segway Reticle Leveler ($20), this thing is kind of and sort of similar in function. The Segway gadget consists of a level and a U shaped card having horizontal lines, the entire works is strapped to the rifle with an elastic band under the rifle. The Segway is leveled and then the scope is rotated so the horizontal reticle feature is parallel to the horizontal lines on the U shaped card, by eyeball. This will never be as precise and light projected through a narrow slit making for a nice vertical light band that can be precisely located parallel to the vertical reticle feature. The Segway gadget makes no allowance or does not align scope and barrel with the nice bubble level double V block feature.

Some time ago I read that some Leupold wire reticle scopes had non square vertical and horizontal reticle features - a good case for etched reticles.

 

[cptjack]

who knows if the level is level?

 

[Shinbone]

If a man says something and his wife doesn't hear him , is he still wrong?

 

[Brians356]

If a man says something and his wife doesn't hear him , is he still wrong?

Yes.
-

 

[T-shooter]

Another method on this link:
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/scope-mount-for-recticle-leveling.3946876/#post-37171488

 

[theallcineyes]

I have a touch of OCD when it comes to scope mounting ensuring it is perfectly level.

For my bolt guns:

I first place the scope in the semi-loose rings and set correct eye relief. Once eye relief is correct, I will draw a small witness mark on the scope in relation to a ring. The scoped rifle then gets fitted in a padded vice.

I have two large bubbles that were removed from a builders level for the initial task. I make sure my rifle platform is level by checking the bolt raceways with the level. The raceways will be the most squared portion of the action.

I then will use the second bubble checking the turrets with the second bubble. Once the scope is level I dab the screws with blue locktite and torque the screws to 15 in/pounds. (told you I'm OCD) I confirm the level with a string and plumb bob at 100 yards.

I also like the "feeler gauge" method.

Rifles that wont go beyond 200 yards get the eye ball job.

 

[Brians356]

I have a touch of OCD when it comes to scope mounting ensuring it is perfectly level.

For my bolt guns:

I first place the scope in the semi-loose rings and set correct eye relief. Once eye relief is correct, I will draw a small witness mark on the scope in relation to a ring. The scoped rifle then gets fitted in a padded vice.

I have two large bubbles that were removed from a builders level for the initial task. I make sure my rifle platform is level by checking the bolt raceways with the level. The raceways will be the most squared portion of the action.

I then will use the second bubble checking the turrets with the second bubble. Once the scope is level I dab the screws with blue locktite and torque the screws to 15 in/pounds. (told you I'm OCD) I confirm the level with a string and plumb bob at 100 yards.

I also like the "feeler gauge" method.

Rifles that wont go beyond 200 yards get the eye ball job.

For most purposes, good enough. But I find three problems with that approach: A) Bolt raceways not likely very square to the bore axis/scope axis datum line, B) Turret top likely not very square to the vertical reticle, and C) Those bubble levels are not precise either in construction, or in use (requires eyeball estimating bubble center).
-

 

[KY_Windage]

Only two things matter: one, that your reticle as mounted points to the exact center of the bore (as Hidenseek suggested), and two, that when shooting your reticle is pointing at the exact center of the earth (i.e., that it lines up with a plumb-bob).

I eye-ball to get the reticle pointed at the center of the bore, then, to make sure I am keeping the scope pointed at the center of the earth when I shoot, I put a clamp-on bubble level on the scope, which you will want anyway for what you are shooting. I then verify with the tall target test at 100 yards. When you crank the elevation turret way up the impacts at 100 yards should be directly above the cranked-down holes. If they are off then you missed the center of the bore a bit and need to adjust.

Keep in mind that beyond 100 yards you may still get some spin-drift to the left or right even when the scope is mounted perfectly.

My favorite level is the articulating one made by Flatline Ops.