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Kroil as a all purpose cleaner

Been using aero kroil for years. Its like Wd40 on steroids. Truly awesome penetrate/lube/protectant. I like to wet the bore with some kroil after a cleaning (especially after a copper cleaning)
 
I've tried just about everything, and I do like Reds and the Kroil mixed with #9. I do NOT use anything with aqueous ammonia ever.
 
I used to use it mixed with Shooters Choice, even coated the bore with pure Kroil between matches. I now use Butches and Butches Oil after noticing how the tops of the orange Kroil cans turn into a gummy mess in pretty short order.
Since using BBS and Butches oil, cleaning takes less strokes and less fouling shots are needed. Iosso is used for carbon.
 
I bought a can of Kroil after reading up on moly coating & cleaning after moly in PS magazine back in '94 or '95. Didn't take long to find out that Kroil alone wasn't going to cut it where copper & carbon were concerned.

After the purchase of a Hawkeye borescope several years ago, I've had ample time & opportunity to check the effectiveness of various cleaners & proceedures, and have settled on a rather simple regimen using Shooters Choice, followed by Bore Tech Eliminator when needed for copper fouling. After a typical cleaning, I'll dry patch, then wet patch with Marvel Mystery Oil, followed by a bronze brush with MMO, which nearly always results in a lot of black on the following wet patch. If there's any significant carbon in the throat visible through the Hawkeye after that, I'll use IOSSO paste as a last resort, which I've yet to see fail in finishing off any carbon fouling.
 
Once when i ran out of Warthog 1134 i tried, Butch's water ( freezes),the sticky Bore Tech Eliminator and tmsolution and the foam stuff with the accelerator found all to less affective than Wart Hog. It was like having a day job just to clean a barrel, to the point i thought i was wearing out the barrel trying to clean it. As far as Kroil and Hoppes 50/50 mix it is left in the bore to coat it then run an 1 1/8 patch through just to leave a film. A barrel cleaned this way looks good and still no copper and was still a 1/4 MOA. barrel after 3000 rds. i always use a Ivy rod and never pull back through with a brush. Hard carbon at the end of the chamber is taken out with an old aluminum arrow shaft turned to the neck size.Works for me ……….. jim
 
LHSmith said:
I used to use it mixed with Shooters Choice, even coated the bore with pure Kroil between matches. I now use Butches and Butches Oil after noticing how the tops of the orange Kroil cans turn into a gummy mess in pretty short order.
Since using BBS and Butches oil, cleaning takes less strokes and less fouling shots are needed. Iosso is used for carbon.

I was going to post this very observation, LH. Cleaned my workbench last night and my can of Kroil has a gummy top from the evaporation of the solvents and residue left behind. I think Kroil is a great penetrator , but it does dry somewhat gummy. I don't leave it in barrels anymore.
 
I don't seem to have a problem with the Kroil being gummy around the top….. i keep a a cap on it to keep the dirt out. You want to to see gummy dirty lets talk Bore Tech Eliminator……… jim
 
I bought a new can of kroil to see how it works. While it is ok I am going to be very careful with the older stuff I have on hand. It is a much better product.
 
I quit using kroil for two reasons. It creeps through threads and gets on your bedding, and it turns to varnish very quickly. I like the TM oil better for a final patch trough the bore. With a lapped barrel I don't see the need for anything other than the standard bore cleaners. I like Butch's, Hoppe's, and Montana Extreme bore solvent. Tm is probably the best, but harder to work with.
 
zfastmalibu said:
I quit using kroil for two reasons. It creeps through threads and gets on your bedding, and it turns to varnish very quickly. I like the TM oil better for a final patch trough the bore. With a lapped barrel I don't see the need for anything other than the standard bore cleaners. I like Butch's, Hoppe's, and Montana Extreme bore solvent. Tm is probably the best, but harder to work with.


Alex, i use it 50/50 with Hoppes and i keep a bore guide in so it doesn't creep any where. i patch it out in a month i don't see anything but again it used 50/50…….. jim
 
zfastmalibu said:
I quit using kroil for two reasons. It creeps through threads and gets on your bedding, and it turns to varnish very quickly. I like the TM oil better for a final patch trough the bore. With a lapped barrel I don't see the need for anything other than the standard bore cleaners. I like Butch's, Hoppe's, and Montana Extreme bore solvent. Tm is probably the best, but harder to work with.

"THE OIL THAT CREEPS"
I see that slogan in large letters on the container, so I guess it is true. It's not even that good when used as they intended.
 
"The Oil That Creeps" is exactly what it does. It is a penetrating oil that fights rust and corrosion during a period of time.

I once accidently left a stainless barrel in a barrel bag in my jeep for 6 weeks before I noticed it missing and located right where I left it. I was dumbfounded on my discovery that the barrel had deep rust pits all over the outside that could not be buffed polished out. Fortunately, I left the inside coated with a Kroil patch after cleaning. I have had a bore scope for years and have tested everything that I could try and found that a Kroil patch will keep moisture out and will leave a coat oil that will turn brown appearing to be varnish.

I ran another clean patch of Kroil thru the pitted barrel and looked at it with the scope. To my surprise, the bore was perfectly clean with NO pits at all inside.

If you leave the bore wet with Kroil to penetrate overnight, you can come back with a bronze brush with a few strokes the carbon and carbon rings will pulverize and come out in specks. I have not found it to dissolve copper, however, I have found that over a period of time, it will penetrate underneath the copper so it can be brushed out with proper solution.

If you have ever tried to clean the muzzle crown after using a break, you will find out very quickly how good your solution dissolves carbon and powder residue.

The fastest working solution I have found is Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV.

Just my .02¢ thoughts.

DJ's Brass Service
 
DJSBRS said:
"The Oil That Creeps" is exactly what it does. It is a penetrating oil that fights rust and corrosion during a period of time.

I once accidently left a stainless barrel in a barrel bag in my jeep for 6 weeks before I noticed it missing and located right where I left it. I was dumbfounded on my discovery that the barrel had deep rust pits all over the outside that could not be buffed polished out. Fortunately, I left the inside coated with a Kroil patch after cleaning. I have had a bore scope for years and have tested everything that I could try and found that a Kroil patch will keep moisture out and will leave a coat oil that will turn brown appearing to be varnish.

I ran another clean patch of Kroil thru the pitted barrel and looked at it with the scope. To my surprise, the bore was perfectly clean with NO pits at all inside.

If you leave the bore wet with Kroil to penetrate overnight, you can come back with a bronze brush with a few strokes the carbon and carbon rings will pulverize and come out in specks. I have not found it to dissolve copper, however, I have found that over a period of time, it will penetrate underneath the copper so it can be brushed out with proper solution.

If you have ever tried to clean the muzzle crown after using a break, you will find out very quickly how good your solution dissolves carbon and powder residue.

The fastest working solution I have found is Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV.

Just my .02¢ thoughts.

DJ's Brass Service

You are right sir……. all my barrels have brakes and i can wipe the carbon off the inside of the brake and the muzzle with Warthog 1134 and i finish up with 50/50 of Kroil and Hoppes. I can totally clean two 1000 yd guns in 15 min…… jim
 
Here is some interesting information that I learned several years ago about Kroil. One of my friends had been the chief inspector A & P mechanic at Air Wisconsin Airlines before he retired. He had arranged for me to tour through their maintenance facilities. I had noticed row upon row of Kroil being stored on one side of the hangar in drums on wood skids, stacked three high. When I asked him why they had so much Kroil there he took me over to an aircraft that was in the process of having exterior aluminum panels removed for its annual inspection. The mechanic was taking a spray bottle and spraying a thin film of Kroil on the edges of the panel & rivets. He then showed me a panel that he had just been removed from drilling out the rivets. He showed where corrosion had been and they used the creeping of the Kroil to get under the panel after letting it set for about an hour. This allowed them to remove the skin without damaging it so they could get to any of the systems for inspection and repair as needed. The other reason that they used Kroil is that when sprayed on as thin as they used, it could get onto any of the wiring & any other systems without any contamination since it would simply flash off and would be gone within 48 to 72 hours with no clean up needed when exposed to the air.

This convinced me that Kroil will work well for what it is intended for as a penetrating oil, and this explains why it is good at getting under carbon to get it out of the bores. It also shows why it will not remove copper since it does not have any ability to dissolve it like our current bore solvents will. It is also a good reason why I will not trust it to absolutely protect my barrel bore surfaces since we have such good firearms oils that are designed to do this job well.

Cordially,
Bob Blaine
Berger Bullets
Technical Specialist
 
Bob Blaine said:
Here is some interesting information that I learned several years ago about Kroil. One of my friends had been the chief inspector A & P mechanic at Air Wisconsin Airlines before he retired. He had arranged for me to tour through their maintenance facilities. I had noticed row upon row of Kroil being stored on one side of the hangar in drums on wood skids, stacked three high. When I asked him why they had so much Kroil there he took me over to an aircraft that was in the process of having exterior aluminum panels removed for its annual inspection. The mechanic was taking a spray bottle and spraying a thin film of Kroil on the edges of the panel & rivets. He then showed me a panel that he had just been removed from drilling out the rivets. He showed where corrosion had been and they used the creeping of the Kroil to get under the panel after letting it set for about an hour. This allowed them to remove the skin without damaging it so they could get to any of the systems for inspection and repair as needed. The other reason that they used Kroil is that when sprayed on as thin as they used, it could get onto any of the wiring & any other systems without any contamination since it would simply flash off and would be gone within 48 to 72 hours with no clean up needed when exposed to the air.

This convinced me that Kroil will work well for what it is intended for as a penetrating oil, and this explains why it is good at getting under carbon to get it out of the bores. It also shows why it will not remove copper since it does not have any ability to dissolve it like our current bore solvents will. It is also a good reason why I will not trust it to absolutely protect my barrel bore surfaces since we have such good firearms oils that are designed to do this job well.

Cordially,
Bob Blaine
Berger Bullets
Technical Specialist


Kroil and Hoppes have served me well for over 25 years, never had a problem with copper or carbon……. i guess if it ain't broke don't try to fix it……… jim
 
Me for one am keeping my mouth shut, Every time there is something I like that works well, they double the price on it. So go use what ever it is you like and don't buy any Kriol! 300 WSM brass is already two and a half times more than its worth.

Joe Salt
 
Joe Salt said:
Me for one am keeping my mouth shut, Every time there is something I like that works well, they double the price on it. So go use what ever it is you like and don't buy any Kriol! 300 WSM brass is already two and a half times more than its worth.

Joe Salt

No kidding or they change the formula.
 
phil said:
Jim,

Where do i get my hands on some Wart Hog 1134???

Phil.


Phil, I'll get you the number but i will tell you they can't ship it anymore due to the hazmat list and they are in ND. jim
 

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