LHSmith said:I used to use it mixed with Shooters Choice, even coated the bore with pure Kroil between matches. I now use Butches and Butches Oil after noticing how the tops of the orange Kroil cans turn into a gummy mess in pretty short order.
Since using BBS and Butches oil, cleaning takes less strokes and less fouling shots are needed. Iosso is used for carbon.
zfastmalibu said:I quit using kroil for two reasons. It creeps through threads and gets on your bedding, and it turns to varnish very quickly. I like the TM oil better for a final patch trough the bore. With a lapped barrel I don't see the need for anything other than the standard bore cleaners. I like Butch's, Hoppe's, and Montana Extreme bore solvent. Tm is probably the best, but harder to work with.
zfastmalibu said:I quit using kroil for two reasons. It creeps through threads and gets on your bedding, and it turns to varnish very quickly. I like the TM oil better for a final patch trough the bore. With a lapped barrel I don't see the need for anything other than the standard bore cleaners. I like Butch's, Hoppe's, and Montana Extreme bore solvent. Tm is probably the best, but harder to work with.
DJSBRS said:"The Oil That Creeps" is exactly what it does. It is a penetrating oil that fights rust and corrosion during a period of time.
I once accidently left a stainless barrel in a barrel bag in my jeep for 6 weeks before I noticed it missing and located right where I left it. I was dumbfounded on my discovery that the barrel had deep rust pits all over the outside that could not be buffed polished out. Fortunately, I left the inside coated with a Kroil patch after cleaning. I have had a bore scope for years and have tested everything that I could try and found that a Kroil patch will keep moisture out and will leave a coat oil that will turn brown appearing to be varnish.
I ran another clean patch of Kroil thru the pitted barrel and looked at it with the scope. To my surprise, the bore was perfectly clean with NO pits at all inside.
If you leave the bore wet with Kroil to penetrate overnight, you can come back with a bronze brush with a few strokes the carbon and carbon rings will pulverize and come out in specks. I have not found it to dissolve copper, however, I have found that over a period of time, it will penetrate underneath the copper so it can be brushed out with proper solution.
If you have ever tried to clean the muzzle crown after using a break, you will find out very quickly how good your solution dissolves carbon and powder residue.
The fastest working solution I have found is Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV.
Just my .02¢ thoughts.
DJ's Brass Service
Bob Blaine said:Here is some interesting information that I learned several years ago about Kroil. One of my friends had been the chief inspector A & P mechanic at Air Wisconsin Airlines before he retired. He had arranged for me to tour through their maintenance facilities. I had noticed row upon row of Kroil being stored on one side of the hangar in drums on wood skids, stacked three high. When I asked him why they had so much Kroil there he took me over to an aircraft that was in the process of having exterior aluminum panels removed for its annual inspection. The mechanic was taking a spray bottle and spraying a thin film of Kroil on the edges of the panel & rivets. He then showed me a panel that he had just been removed from drilling out the rivets. He showed where corrosion had been and they used the creeping of the Kroil to get under the panel after letting it set for about an hour. This allowed them to remove the skin without damaging it so they could get to any of the systems for inspection and repair as needed. The other reason that they used Kroil is that when sprayed on as thin as they used, it could get onto any of the wiring & any other systems without any contamination since it would simply flash off and would be gone within 48 to 72 hours with no clean up needed when exposed to the air.
This convinced me that Kroil will work well for what it is intended for as a penetrating oil, and this explains why it is good at getting under carbon to get it out of the bores. It also shows why it will not remove copper since it does not have any ability to dissolve it like our current bore solvents will. It is also a good reason why I will not trust it to absolutely protect my barrel bore surfaces since we have such good firearms oils that are designed to do this job well.
Cordially,
Bob Blaine
Berger Bullets
Technical Specialist
Joe Salt said:Me for one am keeping my mouth shut, Every time there is something I like that works well, they double the price on it. So go use what ever it is you like and don't buy any Kriol! 300 WSM brass is already two and a half times more than its worth.
Joe Salt
phil said:Jim,
Where do i get my hands on some Wart Hog 1134???
Phil.
johara1 said:phil said:Jim,
Where do i get my hands on some Wart Hog 1134???
Phil.
ROAD TRIP !!!!!!!!![]()
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Phil, I'll get you the number but i will tell you they can't ship it anymore due to the hazmat list and they are in ND. jim