High dollar items I'm a little less comfortable sometimes, but I've never had a real issue yet. There were a couple of low dollar items where they had picking errors and shipped me the wrong item, but as soon as I let them know of the error, they reshipped the right ones, so I ended up with some spare parts I got to keep. One time when I was into week 5 waiting for a $2 item where they said 2 to 4 weeks shipping, I wrote and complained. They agreed to reship and 3 days later the original part arrived. Most of the Chinese shippers really care about their ratings and will do their best to take care of errors. I do tend to only use shippers that have volumes at least in the 10's of thousands. I wouldn't want to have to deal with a warranty return, the shipping costs would kill you. I don't know how they can ship things so cheaply. I buy lots of useful fully functional things from China for less than I could pay to ship them, its amazing.
Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
jthor
USAF Shooting Team
We should have this conversation again in a year's time.Your hypercube won't be able to print my autofeeder drop shoot.
Given your engineering pursuit I'd focus on the design side. There's a lot to absorb/learn. I barely scratched the surface with my autofeeder design modelling but I found it totally cool. I was very impressed with Fusion 360 and it made me thick I need to introduce my kids to this sort of stuff early. The print side continues to evolve very quickly.
FYI I had printed a shelf, two inserts and a paddle for the trap door for Bill for about $22. HP Jet Fusion. Way better than FDM. (Order was alongside some inserts for me.) Cheap for top quality.
I understand what you're saying. I know FDM printers can't do everything, but I want one for basic prototyping before I pay money for a 3D printing service
All I am saying is that it is cheaper to outsource a few prints to figure out what quality and capabilities you really want before you plonk down a bunch of cash on your own printer. You need to do a TON of prints to amortise the upfront cost of a good printer (one that will likely become obsolete before you do so). But up to you. Most of all, have fun with the designing/creating.
jthor
USAF Shooting Team
Im lucky enough to currently work with serveral EE’s that I have done prints with. Anything from random useful parts to custom drone frames with them. First thing I’m printing though after everything is set up is a brass shavings catcher similar to this one for my brass trimmer.
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I just did a mini heat test of my GinaErick Annealer. I had a batch of 43 RWS 308 cases. 5 seconds each and a new case dropped in as fast as possible.** (I don't think an autofeeder would be as fast.) Ambient enclosure temps were about 27C. My control board measures (a) the temp of the top of the radiator casing, (b) the temp of the 1/4" copper tubing where coolant enters the work coil, (c) the enclosure air temp about 1cm from the induction board caps and (d) the enclosure air temp near the very top of the enclosure. My fan speeds scale with temperature, one fan according to the greater of (a) or (b) and the other according to the greater of the other two.
I managed to push the temp of (b) to a peak of about 64C. My "over temp" setting was 70C - at this point a case won't be processed until temps cool below that threshold. 10C below that my fans are doing 100% duty cycle. (They start at a DC of 35% for temps up to 25C.) When (b) hit this peak the temp of the radiator housing (a) was 54C while the enclosure air temps (c) and (d) were a very comfortable 37C. The radiator housing temp (a) peaked out at about 56C with (b) cooling fast when no new cases were fed. After 5 mins of inactivity (still powered up, just no new cases), the coolant-oriented temps were back at 38C, the air temp at the top of the enclosure still at 37C while the temp near the caps (c) was down to 34C.
(I have the 1/4" copper tubing over the induction board caps shielded with Kapton tape and I have the heat sinks recommended by @GrocMax (?) attached to the underside of my induction board.)
Says quite a bit about where the pressure points are with respect to thermal management.
** Sestos timer A = 5s, B=0s, C=0.25s, D=0s.
I managed to push the temp of (b) to a peak of about 64C. My "over temp" setting was 70C - at this point a case won't be processed until temps cool below that threshold. 10C below that my fans are doing 100% duty cycle. (They start at a DC of 35% for temps up to 25C.) When (b) hit this peak the temp of the radiator housing (a) was 54C while the enclosure air temps (c) and (d) were a very comfortable 37C. The radiator housing temp (a) peaked out at about 56C with (b) cooling fast when no new cases were fed. After 5 mins of inactivity (still powered up, just no new cases), the coolant-oriented temps were back at 38C, the air temp at the top of the enclosure still at 37C while the temp near the caps (c) was down to 34C.
(I have the 1/4" copper tubing over the induction board caps shielded with Kapton tape and I have the heat sinks recommended by @GrocMax (?) attached to the underside of my induction board.)
Says quite a bit about where the pressure points are with respect to thermal management.
** Sestos timer A = 5s, B=0s, C=0.25s, D=0s.
The pump I'm using has been in my unit for 2 1/2 years, no leaks. Looking at your pictures, looks like the tank was not properly fused to the lower pump part... 3 in a row !
Could be a bad manufacturing batch (in the process of the welding)
If your getting your pumps through Amazon, get a return authorization, and do a review. Most vendors through Amazon keep an eye on the reviews and will get back to you
Sorry about that.
Let us know if you can get it resolved.
Could be a bad manufacturing batch (in the process of the welding)
If your getting your pumps through Amazon, get a return authorization, and do a review. Most vendors through Amazon keep an eye on the reviews and will get back to you
Sorry about that.
Let us know if you can get it resolved.
Gina1 and Hollywood thank you for sharing you knowledge. Started building one last week to handle 50 BMG. Work coil design is being the most difficult part. I’m using .190 OD Tubing, 8 winds on 1” PVC pipe. Its drawing max 13.3 amp and taking 28 sec. I have tried 8 winds on 3/4” PVC and it is tripping my power supply at 16 amps. Any suggestions on getting the time down a little? Thanks again David
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You need to go big! I upgraded to a bigger induction board and power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XXQ7S/?tag=accuratescom-20
The big one on the left is 1800 watts. The one on the right is a 1000 watt which is larger than the standard. Of course you need a bigger power supply to run it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XXQ7S/?tag=accuratescom-20
The big one on the left is 1800 watts. The one on the right is a 1000 watt which is larger than the standard. Of course you need a bigger power supply to run it.
What is the material?
jthor
USAF Shooting Team
What is the voltage of your power supply and current rating? Wattage? Seems your coil is to small for the 50 cal to me. I have some 50 cal brass I'll see what works here. Which annealer are you using? HB
Hi Hambone
The coil size (ID)(1 1/8") we are using was designed for 308 ammo. For BMG ammo you would need a much larger coil. The closer the case is to the coil, the more current the brass will pull.
A 50 BMG case would be so close to the present coil, the current draw would exceed the present PS (mine is 48V @ 12.5 amps)
If your looking to anneal 50 BMG brass, you would have to play with coil size (ID) and the current capabilities of you PS. The higher the current the less annealing time.
The coil size (ID)(1 1/8") we are using was designed for 308 ammo. For BMG ammo you would need a much larger coil. The closer the case is to the coil, the more current the brass will pull.
A 50 BMG case would be so close to the present coil, the current draw would exceed the present PS (mine is 48V @ 12.5 amps)
If your looking to anneal 50 BMG brass, you would have to play with coil size (ID) and the current capabilities of you PS. The higher the current the less annealing time.
How smooth is the surface texture and fit of the inserts?
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