Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
I'm a slow learner, but I get to the finish line some how. ha but it's coming along and it's fun. Didn't work on the annealer today I went shooting. Picked up my dope for 1100 and 1200 yards with the 6.5 creed and some load development at 400 yards. 1300 1400 yards next trip if I don't run out of MOA. ha.
Congratulations... You just joined a group, world wide.
And thanks for that tip with the CPVC fitting.
BTW, just me being curious. What voltage are you running from your annealing PS and how much current are you pulling without a case in the coil.
Gina
Hi Gina it's 39 volts 7.7 amps 12 u sec sig / 83 khz sinewave without brass.
Been working on some CAD models to 3D print. Inserts for the brass I currently reload, auto feeder, and a replacement table.
Can I make a suggestion? The inserts don't need to be very high. All that is needed is to resize the drop hole (and maintain a 'cone of entry'). I chamfered the top edge of my trap door hole. 55 degrees. It provides a wider aperture and steep slope to ease a falling case into position. The inserts I designed maintain that profile for a smaller hole and only extend up above the shelf enough to maintain the same initial aperture (just a few millimetres). Here's a screen grab showing the design. (I 'exploded' the insert away from the shelf for ease of viewing.) There's no need for a centering insert to protrude far into the work coil whereby it traps heat and gets very hot. Given you are 3D printing as I did you're not really limited by what you can manually manufacture so you have a lot more flexibility as to design.
(Also, I'm sure you realise this already but your feeder requires you to stack all the cases into the feeder the right way around. While this is okay it somewhat defeats a good deal of the purpose of the feeder. I prefer to be able to simply toss a pile of cases into the hopper and forget it. If you are running an autofeeder - of any kind - I think it is very important to be able to monitor temperatures and have the system shutdown/pause when things get too hot.)
PS: with 3D printing, smaller is cheaper
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jthor
USAF Shooting Team
Could you pm me pictures of your annealer? That and maybe send me the cad file for this table to see if I can implement it into mine? Trying to redesign it at the moment and a much better way to accurately adjust the table height in relation to the coil.Can I make a suggestion? The inserts don't need to be very high. All that is needed is to resize the drop hole (and maintain a 'cone of entry'). I chamfered the top edge of my trap door hole. 55 degrees. It provides a wider aperture and steep slope to ease a falling case into position. The inserts I designed maintain that profile for a smaller hole and only extend up above the shelf enough to maintain the same initial aperture (just a few millimetres). Here's a screen grab showing the design. (I 'exploded' the insert away from the shelf for ease of viewing.) There's no need for a centering insert to protrude far into the work coil whereby it traps heat and gets very hot. Given you are 3D printing as I did you're not really limited by what you can manually manufacture so you have a lot more flexibility as to design.
(Also, I'm sure you realise this already but your feeder requires you to stack all the cases into the feeder the right way around. While this is okay it somewhat defeats a good deal of the purpose of the feeder. I prefer to be able to simply toss a pile of cases into the hopper and forget it. If you are running an autofeeder - of any kind - I think it is very important to be able to monitor temperatures and have the system shutdown/pause when things get too hot.)
PS: with 3D printing, smaller is cheaper
Sure. I’m out of town at the moment but can do so on Sunday evening. I think there are pictures earlier in this thread which will show you how I have the shelf sliding up/down on drawer pull handles (one end cut off). It was an idea inspired by dabeechman’s imple,entation. There are set screws in either side of the shelf to lock it on the ‘rails’ although they’ve not been necessary when I have got the holes for the rails just right to provide suitable friction.
I just use the same point on the work coil as a reference (the veticalmcentre where the induction forces are strongest). I hold a case flush with the bottom of the shelf out in the front of the shelf and outside work coil and slide the shelf up/down until the bottom of the case neck would be positioned in the middle of the coil.
I did all my modelling in Fusion 360. It is so easy to use (and free for a year). So it is 3D. What are you using? If you want to use the same setup as me I can just get another printed. I did this for @BillK55 with some modifications to use the drawer pulls he purchased which were slightly different to the ones I had bought. My shelf drop hole is designed to accept magnum cases and I made inserts to reduce that to 13mm and so accept/centre the very wide variety of cases in the circa 12mm diameter range and another to reduce it to around 10.6mm for the much narrower .223 case. Obviously my shelf is designed to accept the IR switch I’m using for case detection so that everything is flush. (See the Fusion screen print above.)
I just use the same point on the work coil as a reference (the veticalmcentre where the induction forces are strongest). I hold a case flush with the bottom of the shelf out in the front of the shelf and outside work coil and slide the shelf up/down until the bottom of the case neck would be positioned in the middle of the coil.
I did all my modelling in Fusion 360. It is so easy to use (and free for a year). So it is 3D. What are you using? If you want to use the same setup as me I can just get another printed. I did this for @BillK55 with some modifications to use the drawer pulls he purchased which were slightly different to the ones I had bought. My shelf drop hole is designed to accept magnum cases and I made inserts to reduce that to 13mm and so accept/centre the very wide variety of cases in the circa 12mm diameter range and another to reduce it to around 10.6mm for the much narrower .223 case. Obviously my shelf is designed to accept the IR switch I’m using for case detection so that everything is flush. (See the Fusion screen print above.)
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jthor
USAF Shooting Team
I was using tinkercad, but I was going to download others since I’m an engineering student when I’m not deployed. So I can get solid works and so on for free. While I’m a student. The picture below is what I currently use. It works, but like I said I want to upgrade it. Im currently getting a 3D printer so I’d like to learn how to print. Where did you get your coil sleeving from?
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-1M-Wh...ure-Fiber-Glass-Tube-Dia-1mm-8mm/163018848918
$1.49 for 1 meter if you're not in a hurry to get it. I chose the 4mm size to use with 1/8" tubing. A meter is more than enough for a standard 1-1/8" ID by 8 turn coil. It didn't mention it in the item description, but I think its actually silicone impregnated fiberglass woven tube. The weave won't open up if you compress it along the length
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On that sleeving you'll find that it expands a lot like the Chinese fingers trick thing. I ordered 2mm for some bare solid 12 ga wire to experiment with. I ordered 3mm for the 1/8 copper tubing we use here for our coils. After getting it in which did take a few weeks I found the 2mm would expand easily and even fit the 1/8 copper tubing no problem. So what I'm saying is you can't go wrong with 2mm up to 4mm it looks like to me. The stuff is great it slips on very easy even after coils are wound. I slip it on a 3 or 4 ft straight piece of copper pull it taut tape the ends and then wind it on my pvc stick for what ever diameter I need at the time. Comes out PERFECT. Hope that helps. HB
https://www.wirecare.com/category/b...-fiberglass-sleeving-8-awg-natural-10-ft-cuts
This is a good bit more expensive but another choice, I don't remember if the shipping was faster or not but the company is USA based. I ended up getting the 8AWG size which is basically 1/8 OD tubing size. I looked at the sources from China at the time but wasn't sure what size was best for 1/8 tubing, 3mm seemed too small and 4mm seemed too big, at least now I know that 4mm will work.
This is a good bit more expensive but another choice, I don't remember if the shipping was faster or not but the company is USA based. I ended up getting the 8AWG size which is basically 1/8 OD tubing size. I looked at the sources from China at the time but wasn't sure what size was best for 1/8 tubing, 3mm seemed too small and 4mm seemed too big, at least now I know that 4mm will work.
Thanks for the info. I always feel a bit uncomfortable ordering anything direct from China. I know, I know, almost all our electronic components come from China these days. But going through an american distributor, at least you have some contact of recourse, if something goes wrong.
+1 I ordered from the same place. 10 feet is enough for at least 4 coils. Allows the coils to be tightly wound without risk of a short.
Then I think you need to be learning either Solidworks, AutoCAD 3D or Fusion 360. The former seems to be the incumbent. The latter is much cheaper (when you do need to pay) and is what I chose to use. I used Draftsight (free tool from Dassault Systems and the ugly sister to Solidworks) for 2D stuff until it couldn't handle the splines I had designed in Fusion 360 for my autofeeder base plate. I had to 'demo' AutoCAD to take the DXF export from Fusion 360 and make the changes required for the laser cutting.
On 3D printers I'd say the following based on my experience doing this stuff.
1. Good 3D printers are expensive. You don't need to own one and don't want to get a cheap one. There are services to outsource even small print runs to.
2. The only FDM one I think worth considering is the Ultimaker.
3. FDM can't produce the quality of SLA.
4. The only SLA machine worth considering is the Form 2.
5. There's a lot that FDM or SLA can't print. Then you have to look at SLS. The drop shoot for my autofeeder is an example of that.
6. The SLS or HP Jet Fusion prints I had done were awesome and leagues ahead of the FDM prints I had done. I replaced anything printed via FDM with new prints done with this technology.
If you want the Fusion 360 design file for my shelf I'd be happy to send it to you. But you'd be best to start doing some of the basic tutorials they have first just to get used to the environment. I managed to do the shelf in just a few minutes. Projecting the faces for the inserts took a little longer. The design in Fusion 360 of my autofeeder - principally in order to design the drop shoot - was a big step up.
I used JawsTec for my SLS/HP Jet Fusion prints. You just export an STL file from your model and upload it to their site for an instant quote etc.
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If you go here
https://a360.co/2NSmS1t
you can play around with/inspect the shelf model. (This is the one I did for Bill.) I find it better to go to Settings->Environment and change it to Photo Booth. You can inspect various aspects of the design, manipulate the view via the thing on the top right and change whats shown by selecting Design in top left. When it opens both inserts are sitting on top of each other.
https://a360.co/2NSmS1t
you can play around with/inspect the shelf model. (This is the one I did for Bill.) I find it better to go to Settings->Environment and change it to Photo Booth. You can inspect various aspects of the design, manipulate the view via the thing on the top right and change whats shown by selecting Design in top left. When it opens both inserts are sitting on top of each other.
jthor
USAF Shooting Team
Thank you! I should be fine with my 3D printer as I’m building a hypercube. Tinkercad is extremely limiting. You can easily make simply things, but it was a hassle trying to do anything with precision and centering pieces was a nightmare. As soon as I’m back from leave I’m getting solid works.
We should have this conversation again in a year's time.
Your hypercube won't be able to print my autofeeder drop shoot.Given your engineering pursuit I'd focus on the design side. There's a lot to absorb/learn. I barely scratched the surface with my autofeeder design modelling but I found it totally cool. I was very impressed with Fusion 360 and it made me thick I need to introduce my kids to this sort of stuff early. The print side continues to evolve very quickly.
FYI I had printed a shelf, two inserts and a paddle for the trap door for Bill for about $22. HP Jet Fusion. Way better than FDM. (Order was alongside some inserts for me.) Cheap for top quality.
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