Induction brass annealer redux
- Thread starter Gina1
- Start date
So how critical is the diameter of the copper tubing used for the coil. 1/8in = 3.2mm.
1/8 tubing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mueller-In...869222?hash=item1eddb86966:g:Uv8AAOSw5T9axVBz
$30
3mm tubing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AN7B46S/?tag=accuratescom-20
$8
1/8 tubing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mueller-In...869222?hash=item1eddb86966:g:Uv8AAOSw5T9axVBz
$30
3mm tubing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AN7B46S/?tag=accuratescom-20
$8
I don't know much about the 3mm tubing. The original coil was designed by hollywood, after much trial and error. Of the 1/8th tubing I know this. It is easy to form into the coil, with out getting any kinks in it. The coil with the 1/8" (with 8 turns) is small enough (height wise) to handle 6BR and 6 dasher cases. If your going to use the the 3mm tubing. let us know how it works out.
Hey, if it costs less money, I'm for it
Gina
I can't believe it will make a difference. Other than ease of turning the tube without kinks what matters for an inductor (here the core is air) is the number of turns, the internal diameter of the coil and its width. 0.2mm isn't going to matter much I suspect. The passageway for the cooling fluid might be a little less which may matter more than anything else. For those interested, a little online calculator for an air core inductor is here:
http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Air-Core-Inductor-Calculator.phtml
I guess I will still need some 1/4 in tubing as well.
http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Air-Core-Inductor-Calculator.phtml
I guess I will still need some 1/4 in tubing as well.
Ma'am, I almost finished. Just waiting for paint to dry on case sides, and to finish leak testing. Some of my notes:
I used almost all of your listed components (Thank you for it).
Case interior is 8"Hx8"Wx12"D. Made from wood, fake wood flooring, and pieces of a video recorder case.
Card is hung and isolated from all vibration.
Fans are mounted to case side. One blowing in, one out at the rad.
There's an air deflector to get the oversized fan to the card's bottom sinks.
I used the 1/4" tube coil that came with the card for a radiator for now.
Shelf is 1"x3"Wx4.5"D UHMW. I had a scrap and will try it for melt.
Solenoid is a scrap 24v, but it works fine.
The LED anneal lamp is blindingly bright, but it lights the brass great.
There was a persistent leak at the pump output nipple even with 2 clamps. Found a parting seam ridge, removed it and all is well - I hope.
I used spade terminal strips as they are more compact.
Here are pics. I'll add more replies.
I used almost all of your listed components (Thank you for it).
Case interior is 8"Hx8"Wx12"D. Made from wood, fake wood flooring, and pieces of a video recorder case.
Card is hung and isolated from all vibration.
Fans are mounted to case side. One blowing in, one out at the rad.
There's an air deflector to get the oversized fan to the card's bottom sinks.
I used the 1/4" tube coil that came with the card for a radiator for now.
Shelf is 1"x3"Wx4.5"D UHMW. I had a scrap and will try it for melt.
Solenoid is a scrap 24v, but it works fine.
The LED anneal lamp is blindingly bright, but it lights the brass great.
There was a persistent leak at the pump output nipple even with 2 clamps. Found a parting seam ridge, removed it and all is well - I hope.
I used spade terminal strips as they are more compact.
Here are pics. I'll add more replies.
Attachments
A few more - - -
Attachments
The last pics - - - -
I will post more when the case is together.
Attachments
WOW.. you did some really neat design work on your build. Love the bell crank, and the way you lower and raise the trap door. May be it's me but I could not see the 48 volt power supply in your case. That's always been a factor in getting the case smaller. Using the original 1/4" coil for the radiator... interesting !! What are you using to blow in it, to remove heat ? And how effective will it be for continues annealing ?
Looks like the 3mm tubing worked out well for making the coil. Any kinks in winding it ?
Very nice....
Gina
Looks like the 3mm tubing worked out well for making the coil. Any kinks in winding it ?
Very nice....
Gina
Thank you. It was all the info from this thread. Again, thank you.
It's hard to see, but there is a sheet of white that goes from the top of the large input fan inward over the card and has a 90 bend down the card bottom sinks so one fan hits both card sides. It's in the first pic I posted above.
It was a VCR case cut in two and modified.
The PS is ducted with a cut open spraypaint lid so only cooler air goes in. It's mounted with velcro on the floor and 2 backing angles so it's easy to remove.
The 1/8" tube was super easy to roll, but it keeps springing out to 1-5/32".
There's a small hole in front (V) that allowed PS adjustment to your 43v.
Mounting card, shunt, 12vPS, and harness to the top bar eased room constraints.
The build ended up at $245 using on-hand case parts, wire, terminals, fuses, strips, and garage door handle.
I have to add a funnel for loading and chute for catching.
And it all works. I'll post when I have some empty brass to run.
Thank you for starting all this. It has been a very enjoyable experience.
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Wow. All that in that budget! Especially when you consider the cost of the Mean Well PSU.
One question as I continue to plan my build: Where should the case sit in the coil height-wise? Does the height of the case relative to the top of the coil matter or is it merely that the neck and shoulder be in it? My coil can't come all the way down to the level of the shelf because of the IR switch (8mm thick) sitting on the shelf.
One question as I continue to plan my build: Where should the case sit in the coil height-wise? Does the height of the case relative to the top of the coil matter or is it merely that the neck and shoulder be in it? My coil can't come all the way down to the level of the shelf because of the IR switch (8mm thick) sitting on the shelf.
Coil static. Shelf moving. MW PSU for current control. .223 Rem cases and up. So coil ‘height’ is fixed by virtue fixed number of winds of 3mm tube. Add height of IR switch (8mm). I’m trying to see if there is a max to thickness of shelf given case will sit roughly flush with bottom of shelf. If shelf is thicker case sits lower in coil.
Still a little confused.. Anyway it appears that you will have to "play around" with your setting to find the right "settings". Using Tempilaq (750 degree)temperature indicating liquid, figure out how much current to use, how long to turn on the inductor PCB, and how far to insert the case into the coil. I guess trial and error.
Good luck
Gina
Good luck
Gina
Was wondering how well your home made radiator worked? I have a flow meter in my system and the flow through a 1/8" induction tube is very low (I'm not sure at this low rate how accurate the reading is but I receive pulses and fault the unit out if I don't receive 4 pulses within a second), I'm using a radiator but I'm trying to simplify the entire cooling system. If I just used 1/4" copper tubing for the radiator then I could simplify things but it is a pain to bend without kinking it and using more 1/8 tubing might restrict the flow even more.
Only found 5 damaged brass to test with. Running them, the heat coil got hot - then cooled, while the cooler coil kinda almost sorta warmed - then cooled off quick. Flow is quite small. I left a bubble in the vinyl line to watch current. Figuered the copper surface and water volume of the cooler coil was a few times that of the heater.
Thank you. After many tries on 5 damaged RP brass, .323 Mauser, my start point of tuning is:WOW... Again. My hat is truly off to you. What a neat build, and a lot of ingenuity went into it.
$245.00 went into it, for a precision controlled induction annealing machine. No way you can beat that.
Well done !!
Gina
45V, 7.9A with empty 1.15" I.D. coil (it shrank .008" after 3rd heat).
7sec at 45V, 8-climbing-to-10.2A with brass .659" inserted, temp paint changed to the very base corner of the shoulder.
Question: what do I change for best efficiency? Time increases parts temps the worst. I'm thinking V ?
Thank you.
Several things come to mind....
(1) How much of the case are you putting into the coil ? For my 6 mm dasher cases, Almost all of the case is in the coil. Top of the neck is about 1 or 2 coil turns below the top of the coil.
(2) Low flow. When you made your coil, did you ream out (flair) the ends, before connecting it to the 1/4" copper tubing ? Cutting it with a pipe cutter tends to close the ends.
(3) if your build is a constant current build, the current should remain constant, and you voltage change with annealing time. If your not running it as a constant current build. then more of the case in the coil will increase the current, more current greater heat, faster annealing time. (without exceeding PS limits)
(4) if your annealing coil is getting too hot (and you have adequate flow through the coil) you may want to think about the radiator listed in the parts list.
(5) with no case in the coil, most builders (basic) get 8.6 amps.
Gina
(1) How much of the case are you putting into the coil ? For my 6 mm dasher cases, Almost all of the case is in the coil. Top of the neck is about 1 or 2 coil turns below the top of the coil.
(2) Low flow. When you made your coil, did you ream out (flair) the ends, before connecting it to the 1/4" copper tubing ? Cutting it with a pipe cutter tends to close the ends.
(3) if your build is a constant current build, the current should remain constant, and you voltage change with annealing time. If your not running it as a constant current build. then more of the case in the coil will increase the current, more current greater heat, faster annealing time. (without exceeding PS limits)
(4) if your annealing coil is getting too hot (and you have adequate flow through the coil) you may want to think about the radiator listed in the parts list.
(5) with no case in the coil, most builders (basic) get 8.6 amps.
Gina
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