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Induction brass annealer redux

HNY everyone

Been a little slow getting anything done, wifes got me redoing the ensuite (full referb)

Well got the fans and rad fitted into place, was dry fitting psu and relay, when i had a closer look at it, and notices 24V and not 240V....lucky
20170102_144613.jpg 20170102_144621.jpg

Question guys, been having a closer look at what i ordered :( note to self, we run 240v (face palm plant)
can i change the relay and varistor to run 24v
 
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What about the possibility of using a FET switch instead of the relay/contactor? No arc or pitting or fused contacts.
 
HNY everyone

Been a little slow getting anything done, wifes got me redoing the ensuite (full referb)

Well got the fans and rad fitted into place, was dry fitting psu and relay, when i had a closer look at it, and notices 24V and not 240V....lucky
View attachment 997334 View attachment 997335

Question guys, been having a closer look at what i ordered :( note to self, we run 240v (face palm plant)
can i change the relay and varistor to run 24v

To better understand your question. Where do you live, different country ? Power is it 50 cycle 220VAC ?

Gina
 
That is NICE !!!! Thank you... and thank you from all the future builders.

Gina
Absolutely! This drawing is the baseline, then I'll do another from my "as built" modifications to the drawing showing the mods. I also ordered a small PLC to give me more control over my hopper assembly. Should be fun; get to use my electrical controls engineering background again after 10 years in management lol!
 
What about the possibility of using a FET switch instead of the relay/contactor? No arc or pitting or fused contacts.

An IGBT or power mosfet with high enough ratings would do the same job as a mechanical relay seems like. Solid state relays of that power rating already have all the protection schemes inside but are sorta large and expensive. Lotsa different ways of accomplishing that switching job.
 
Downloaded and tried out TinyCad. Works pretty good. Still error proofing my work but here's Gina1's drawing (showing the 3A fuses rather than 1A) of the GinaErick recreated in TinyCad

View attachment 997333

Good job.

I would like to point out it is not necessary to connect the VA meter black wire off the two pin connector when the meter is wired in this fashion, but does not change anything if it is connected.
 
Hi Kit...

Just one more question.. Where do you get your parts from? Without it getting very expensive, do you order from the US, or is there a local on-line electronics source. If local on-line I could look over their parts and give you a recommendation.
Gina
 
Hi Kit...

Just one more question.. Where do you get your parts from? Without it getting very expensive, do you order from the US, or is there a local on-line electronics source. If local on-line I could look over their parts and give you a recommendation.
Gina
Hi Gina, nearly all of the parts are from ebay, and they have come from all over the world, uk, usa, china, just me not paying attention when i was ordering stuff and in too much of a hurry to get it moving :)
Have ordered 240volt stuff now :)
 
Hi Gina, nearly all of the parts are from ebay, and they have come from all over the world, uk, usa, china, just me not paying attention when i was ordering stuff and in too much of a hurry to get it moving :)
Have ordered 240volt stuff now :)

OK... Good luck with your build. If you need any advice or help PM me, or just post here, there is a lot of good advice to be had from the other builders.
 
Awesome man, by far the best annealer I've seen. If this doesn't catch on it'll be the equivalent of people choosing the horse n buggy over the automobile. Outstanding... Really impressive!
 
Awesome man, by far the best annealer I've seen. If this doesn't catch on it'll be the equivalent of people choosing the horse n buggy over the automobile. Outstanding... Really impressive!

Thank you.... :)

Hollywood (Erick) started it, we worked together to get a good design on the coil and electronics. Other builders have been improving it as they build theirs.
The really great thing about the basic design, it's not that hard to build and it can be built for under $400.00 dollars

So again Thank you. It's nice to be appreciated :);):confused:o_O:rolleyes:
 
Been away for awhile while I upgrade the CNC equipment in my shop. Glad to see this post going strong. Some nice builds in here.
 
For those contemplating the RST-48-750 PS it works best with the voltage set by the PS pot and the voltage adj jumper in place (as delivered), and a multi position switch with discreet steps for current limiting. Current stays constant and voltage varies to maintain current. This does not appear to be linear to the current control input voltage so coming up with exact numbers isn't possible, plus it is very dependent on the individual coil design and what case is in it, and how far in the coil the case is. 1/4v to 1/3v steps from 5.0v to 2.5v to 2.75v is plenty of resolution.

7 or 8 positions is plenty, recommend a 'shorting' style switch, the PS may not like the voltage bouncing to 0v between switch positions.
Here is an example of one-

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...59virtualkey14860000virtualkey105-SR2511F-17S

5v supply (could be part of the voltage divider circuit from 12v), numbered 1/4" shaft knob and a few resistors complete the deal.
 
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Been away for awhile while I upgrade the CNC equipment in my shop. Glad to see this post going strong. Some nice builds in here.

I was wondering where you were :rolleyes:. BTW saw your video on youtube... nice. YES !! some really nice builds.
Really like the constant current annealer build that CrocMax built. That guy knows his electronics.

Gina
 
Parts are starting to roll in despite the weather! Working on a layout that will fit in a 14w x 11h x 12d space with power supplies mounted under the other components. My configuration will need a second timer and relay for a staging location above the coil. Picture shows a 13-1/2w x 12d layout with a ruler for those wondering about space needs. Radiator will be in a slot cut into the shelf to drop down flush for direct route to pump etc. still need to work on spacing between components and will most likely mount fuses and terminal some strips underneath with power supplies or on side walls for more room.

IMG_1755.JPG
 
You may want more space between the center contactor and it neighbors. Putting fast-on terminals opposite each other at that spacing might be a pain.
 
You may want more space between the center contactor and it neighbors. Putting fast-on terminals opposite each other at that spacing might be a pain.

Great point. I think I will move the fuses and terminal strips underneath and put the relays in their location in the pic instead. I'll see how the wire runs look before deciding. May make sense to spread the fuses & strips around the enclosure although it wouldn't look as pretty :-)
 

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