Induction brass annealer redux

[Steve Sc.]

Ok so far I have this as a list to purchase for my build. Is there anything wrong, missing or not needed to make a kiss system?


insulation for coils I will curl.

copper tubing 1/8" I will curl.
Adjustable Switching Power Supply AC DC 1000W 48V 20A Voltage and Current Thanks to hdmunger 's advice!

wire I have for wiring

box I will be building from plywood
Thermaltake T1000 Pure Clear Transparent coolant for PC Water Cooling 1000ml, Anti-Corrosion, Anti-Freeze for Copper, Brass, Nickel and Aluminum CL-W245-OS00TR-A

Uxcell a10073000ux0031 2 Pcs 8 Position Double Row Screw Terminal Covered Barrier Strip 600V 25A

SESTOS Digital Twin Timer SESTOS B3S-2R-220 AC 100-240V,Timer Panel Supports NPN and PNP Input Switching,programmable Timer Relay,pid Timer,Timer Relay

Voltage Current Display, DROK DC 4.5-100V Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter Panel, 0-50A Volt Tester Meter Amp Detector, LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery

Yosoo SC-300T DC 12V Ultra-Quiet Water Cooling Pump 4W Reservoir max.300L/h for PC CPU Liquid Cooling System

BXQINLENX 10 Pipe Aluminum Heat Exchanger Radiator for PC CPU CO2 Laser Water Cool System Computer 80mm

( IS THIS NEEDED?????) C230B Double two 2 Pole 30 Amps 120 Volts A/C Contactor
Am I missing anything? Thanks again all.

eventually i WILL BE ADDING A DROP SHOOT WITH TRAPPED DOOR LIKE MOST OF YOU HAVE WITH YOUR ANEALERS

Much appreciated
Steve

 

[itchyTF]

LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery

What is this for?

insulation for coils I will curl.

Better put this on the tubing before you wind the coil.

 

[Steve Sc.]

What is this for?


Better put this on the tubing before you wind the coil.

Thanks itchyTF, thats a no brain er that could easily be over looked, I will def make sure I do this first!

 

[Steve Sc.]

What is this for?


Better put this on the tubing before you wind the coil.

As for the meter, I was thinking of using this in place of the one on the PS being that the PS meter output reading is in the back, Id rather have the ability to read all up front of box.

 

[itchyTF]

As for the meter, I was thinking of using this in place of the one on the PS being that the PS meter output reading is in the back, Id rather have the ability to read all up front of box.

If it’s for automotive battery, will it be ok for 48v?

 

[Steve Sc.]

If it’s for automotive battery, will it be ok for 48v?

I dont know to tell you the truth, I will wait for others to chime in.

 

[itchyTF]

Do you have a link for this - LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery?

 

[txtaxman]

Do you have a link for this - LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery?

From the description: "Voltage Current Display, DROK DC 4.5-100V Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter Panel, 0-50A Volt Tester Meter Amp Detector, LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery"​

The useable range is from 4.5 to 100 V DC and 0 to 50 A DC. Monitoring an Automotive Battery is just one possible application. If one Googles: "DROK DC 4.5-100V Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter Panel, 0-50A Volt Tester", the Amazon listing is one result. Hope this helps.

 

[itchyTF]

From the description: "Voltage Current Display, DROK DC 4.5-100V Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter Panel, 0-50A Volt Tester Meter Amp Detector, LED Voltage Amperage Monitor Gauge for Automotive Motor Battery"​

The useable range is from 4.5 to 100 V DC and 0 to 50 A DC. Monitoring an Automotive Battery is just one possible application. If one Googles: "DROK DC 4.5-100V Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Multimeter Panel, 0-50A Volt Tester", the Amazon listing is one result. Hope this helps.

From the wording I thought the LED gauge was different from the volt/amp meter.

 

[elee3]

At work, I have a 10KW induction power supply for soldering, brazing and heat treating. For insulating the coils, we just paint them with this insulating varnish. it works very well.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[ToddP]

A few months ago, AccurateShooter did a massive up grade/reload. The schematic was not reloaded.
I have since reloaded it and it is on page 110 of this thread. Was unable to reload it on page 1.
Your not the first one to ask about it.

Gina

Hi Gina,
The schematic is again missing. Could you please upload it again? Thanks!

EDIT: I see you already did this in post 2847, so never mind

 

[Dave M.]

Ceramic TIG lenses work well.

View attachment 1502709

Why not just wrap the copper tubing with fireproof sleeving like we do for just about every induction coil we made when I was I that industry. This 4mm fiberglass heat sleeving works perfect to insulate the 1/8” copper tubing which has a 3.175mm OD.

Amazon.com

Dave

 

[rox]

Ceramic TIG lenses work well.

Why not just wrap the copper tubing with fireproof sleeving like we do for just about every induction coil we made when I was I that industry.
Dave

Beats me. Ask the OP. My coils are fibreglass sleeved.

I use the ceramic cylinders when using the coil for induction hardening (where the object is fully inside the coil, and therefore very hot throughout) , and during annealer testing and development on the bench (i.e. without a 'shelf'). The coil was wound around the ceramic 'lens', so it's a snug fit, and can be easily adjusted up and down in the coil to position the case/object at the right place.

 

[howe0002]

Hi everyone, I'm Howe0002, this is my first time attending this thread. It's been 38 days since my last post in a forum....

Question about how far the coil is from the ZVS board. In my build, I chose to use a stepper motor to drive my autofeeder. At first I had my zvs just behind the front wall of the case with the coil leads mounted to the hex posts just passing through the front wall and the coil there in front. So in total, from tip of the coil to the first hex post was probably 4 inches. However, when the ZVS was powered, it cause all sorts of erratic behavior in my stepper. I tried a lot of approaches to solve that. I ended up moving the zvs to the back of the case and using solid #8 copper wire to the front of the case where is was secured to a ground bus bar ( two of them, separated of course). Each bus bar had a lead of the coil tube and the #8 wire from the zvs. This seems to work. I wanted to know if there is any reason I should not do this or why this might be a bad idea or if having longer lead tube for the coils is ok.

Thoughts?

This is a work in progress. I plan on putting in a 48v ps and changing out the coil tubing to 1/8" with just a straight stacked 8 loops instead of the one I have on there now. My time on a 6.5 hornady case is 7.2 seconds with a 36v ps and the 1/4" tubing.

Link to Photos

Arduino Uno, 12v dc solenoid.

 

[itchyTF]

What sort of things did you try to mitigate the stepper problem?

 

[howe0002]

What sort of things did you try to mitigate the stepper problem?

Different caps, common grounding of the two power supplies, adding shielded wires (grounded on both ends), shielding panel (grounded), twisted pairs, shortened stepper wires, rerouting wires. The thing that worked was moving the zvs board to back and away from the all the other DC wires. So all the AC wiring is in the back (from line to PS's) and none of those wires or the buses go to the front of the case. Only DC wiring goes to the front. In retrospect, I think I should have used an old PC case (metal) instead of a wood case . I have the 48v ps and 1/8 tubing ordered as a of last night. Hoping that makes the difference in time. This is my second induction annealer. My first one was a retrofit of a propane annealer. For it I used #8 wire as the coil and added lots of fans. It was controlled by one of those timer relays. It actually works very well. My times on 308/6.5 casees are in the 4's (4.4, 4,6 etc). But it is only air cooled and the motor is a brushed 1/4 HP DC PWM controlled motor. It really doesn't care about the ZVS emi too much. But, the steppers seemed to be more sensitive to EMI. I built a CNC router with steppers too, had similar issues. The resolution on that was routing the wires away from A/C and other EMI generating components like power supplies, etc.

 

[rox]

I plan on putting in a 48v ps and changing out the coil tubing to 1/8" with just a straight stacked 8 loops instead of the one I have on there now. My time on a 6.5 hornady case is 7.2 seconds with a 36v ps and the 1/4" tubing.

Why the switch to a single-layer coil?

 

[howe0002]

Why the switch to a single-layer coil?

Would have to plead ignorance I guess. Seems like most of the coils that have lower times are single stack coils. Maybe I'm wrong. On my previous solid wire build, it's an 8 coil straight stack and is much faster considering it's using the same PS and ZVS board I'm using in this new one. Should I just try the 48v PS then?

 

[rox]

Seems like most of the coils that have lower times are single stack coils. Maybe I'm wrong. On my previous solid wire build, it's an 8 coil straight stack and is much faster considering it's using the same PS and ZVS board I'm using in this new one. Should I just try the 48v PS then?

I was about to go the other way (from single-layer to double-layer), using 5mm (3/16") tube. Until I try it, I can't suggest which will work best. My gut feeling was that if you maintain the same inductance and ID, the double-layer would heat more quickly.




This video (you may have already seen) has some good info on coil design:

 

[howe0002]

I was about to go the other way (from single-layer to double-layer), using 5mm (3/16") tube. Until I try it, I can't suggest which will work best. My gut feeling was that if you maintain the same inductance and ID, the double-layer would heat more quickly.




This video (you may have already seen) has some good info on coil design:

yep, this was the video I got the idea from. I'm hoping it's just the difference between a 48v and 36v ps... I'll know more next week.