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"I'm beginning to think its me...."

That's because most want to "buy" there way to success instead of putting in the hard work and practice of learning how to become a better marksman. I saw a hundred times in over 30 years of competitive pistol shooting.
You are 100% right but it works both ways. You can not expect to shoot really good if you don't at least have or buy a good barrel. Seen to many people cobble a rifle together and use cheap parts then wonder why they have issues.
 
You are 100% right but it works both ways. You can not expect to shoot really good if you don't at least have or buy a good barrel. Seen to many people cobble a rifle together and use cheap parts then wonder why they have issues.
Agree, I began my original post with "after ruling out equipment related issues". However, I've seen it a lot in competitive shooting, albeit, pistol, guys chasing firearms, ammo, etc. related issues trying to "buy" success, yet wouldn't invest the time in dedicated meaningful practice.

When I shot on the Army Post Pistol team, we spent a lot of time working on fundamentals and diagnosing targets. I guess I had that ingrained in me because it worked.
 
Start cheap/easy, dry fire "group" session. Watching for jump while sighting on bull. See if there is an odd occasional reticle movement. If there isn't, great(get flags). If there is figure out if it's your hold or the rifle mechanism.
 
Can you post a photo of the rifle? Parts list?

Of course, wind flags are great if you’re shooting on a private range or competing at all, but it’s extremely impractical to set them up at a public range. No, I don’t think there’s half an inch of wind in a 105 at 100 yards on a calm day by any stretch. BUT, by using a couple of pieces of surveyor’s tape at 25 and 50/75, you can at least know when the those “flags” are going in the same direction. It could be 100 things, 99 of them I can’t suggest without seeing the rifle.

TO FINALLY ANSWER YOUR QUESTION….

I will try shooting a rifle off a bipod two ways right off the bat. I’ll first try pulling the rifle into my shoulder snugly and then leaning (loading) into the bipod. I don’t have much hand on the gun, and definitely don’t wrap my thumb over the tang area.

The second way, if the first doesn’t work out, is to set the rifle up for free recoil. People I’ve shared this with always want to know “how much” free recoil and the best way I’ve found to describe it is I can feel the butt pad on my shirt but can’t feel it touching my skin. I hope that makes sense. Again, I don’t grip the gun with my trigger hand.
 
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You'd be surprised how much goes on in low wind days. You really should use flags, it will help. I have been fighting one shot out of the group or double groups. Working on my gun handling and eventually letting a little sand out of the ears on the rear bag took care of my problem.
I cannot believe how often the flag at 30 yards is blowing the opposite direction of the flag at the target!
 
I've got a Ruger Precision Rimfire gun that I've had since it first came out. Many who've bought this gun complain about how hard it is to get it to consistently shoot well due to there being too much flexibility in the buttstock assembly. And it's true, there does seem to be enough flexibility in it to get in the way of producing consistent results due to how it's being held when breaking a shot. But for me, I find that issue actually helpful as I practice shoot with it (the grip is set up the same as my center fire RPR's). Because it's not very forgiving with how it's held, it actually helps me easily find what I'm doing right or wrong when breaking a shot. If I'm not consistent the cheek weld pressure, or consistent with pressure on my shoulder or even a little twist with my hand when I squeeze the trigger, I just won't get the tight groups I like to see. When I do everything right repeatedly, the groups look surprisingly good (using good high end ammo). Practicing with it has really helped improve my centerfire shooting and also with recognizing what I did wrong right away before I even see the result on target. It doesn't take much to throw a shot off, if you're looking for small groups. :eek: ;)
 
What kind of bipod? Harris type or F/class bipod with skis? Shooting small with a Harris is difficult and takes lots of practice. When I do load development for my bipod guns, I do it off either my f/open front rest or a sand bag at the least.

If its the last round always, it is likely is "target panic". Hunters call it buck fever. BR guys call it wishing the last one in. Its nerves and a breakdown of fundamentals due to excitement.

If the gear is sorted out to be good enough and its mental manners that the issue, I can tell you my score really got better once I stopped counting how many X's or 9's I shot in a string. Then when I completely stopped counting shots in a string and had to wait for my score keeper to call all out, I was able to extend "the zone" to the entirety of my string for score. So, stop shooting for "smallest 5 shot group" and start shooting the best shot every shot.

Another thought, are you shooting POA/POI? If so, you could be shooting out your aiming point. Dial up a minute and move your groups away from your POA.
 
I'm starting to wonder if its my shooting technique causing the "flyers' - how I'm setting up behind the rifle, shouldering the rifle, cheek placement, something.
During your next practice session, place a round having a spent primer (snap cap in the pistol world) in the group of rounds to be shot. You will find out very quickly if your gun handling is the source of the flyers. If the scope reticle moves from the POA after activating the fire control system, it’s you!
 
SO I'm load testing 6 Dasher and got 2 decent loads.... 31.4 Varget under 105 Berger Targets and 31.9 Varget under 105 Berger targets. Front bipod rear bag....basically F-class

Both shoot well under half moa 4 round groups and about 0.50 moa 5 shot groups - one round "flyer" outside the cluster of 4 holes. I've tested seating depth and shoulder bump and neck tension to death. I anneal all my cases. I've weighed my bullets and they all range in between 104.9 and 105.1 grains. Peterson brass.

Both have from 6 - 10 fps S.D. and under 20 fps E.S. Not alot to pick one load over the other.

I'm starting to wonder if its my shooting technique causing the "flyers' - how I'm setting up behind the rifle, shouldering the rifle, cheek placement, something.

Looking for technique / tips on shooter / rifle interaction and engagement that gets consistent accurancy and / or eliminates flyers.

Thanx. Much.
Get rid of the bipod. Tommy Mc
 
eye on crosshair on target if your not seeing bullet impact your flinching...I do it, it's the diff in bughole and .5 I don't shoot alot sometimes it takes 1 or 2 days to get myself tuned, or a few sessions in a day to get the feel but that's me...but I know the rifle will do it because it's done it before
that is hard for me to accomplish
 
You have to have the ability to call your shots and "know" that is where the gun was pointed when you broke the trigger. If you can't do that, you are probably wasting your time and money, because you aren't going to get better. Yes, there are times when you call a shot and it isn't where you expect, but those are few and far between, unless your rifle has a problem. But that is how you know if you rifle has a problem.
 
Couple of thoughts

Can you have a shooting buddy shoot a group?

What if you went for a 10-round group in testing?
 

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