I think I over annealed some brass
- Thread starter muleman69
- Start date
No. You cannot work harden the shoulder to make it stronger. It would take a large number of firings and resizing to get the neck hardness back to where it should be. Put the cases in the rubbish.
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
Did you size prior to, or after annealing?
If you sized after annealing, how much neck tension are you using? What is the neck OD after sizing with the expander removed during this step, and what is the neck OD after sizing with the expander in place?
This will allow you to calculate how much neck work is being done with each sizing step. While it will be less than firing, you can work the brass by reducing and then increasing the neck diameter by repeatedly sizing.
Is this good quality brass like new? Or brass near the end of it's life? Might make a difference the effort you are willing to go to.
But the basic question remains, how are you monitoring the case neck temperature. Using torche(s) or some other method? I use 750 degree Tempilaq applied inside the case neck with a single torch. Just want the Tempilaq to melt and lose color. In low light your case necks should not start to glow orange-ish.
pirate ammo
Guaranteed to take the wind out of their sails
the only time I pushed the neck down into the shoulder,I seated the bullet and crimped a lot at the same time,,but I done it on purpose,,
It takes a lot to get brass that soft. How did you anneal it? How long?
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Brass can only be work hardened. It isn't like steel.
Lou Murdica
Silver $$ Contributor
if you cant buy a AMP dont anneal at all. you are better off. the propane ones are not good for your brass.
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Ledd Slinger
Silver $$ Contributor
No way to save them. In the trash they go.
Use 750 deg Tempilaq if you aren't sure on how long to anneal.
And it's not hard to screw up fellas. Next time you anneal, take a cull case run it up to 750 deg, then leave it in the flame for an extra 2-3 seconds. That's all it takes to destroy the usefulness of the brass by making it way too soft. Everyone who has annealed a lot over the years has done it at some point. If you see the brass glowing red or even a dull red, you screwed up.
You want to see some REALLY touchy brass, try annealing 22 Hornet cases. 1 second too long after temp is reached and you've ruined them.
Use 750 deg Tempilaq if you aren't sure on how long to anneal.
And it's not hard to screw up fellas. Next time you anneal, take a cull case run it up to 750 deg, then leave it in the flame for an extra 2-3 seconds. That's all it takes to destroy the usefulness of the brass by making it way too soft. Everyone who has annealed a lot over the years has done it at some point. If you see the brass glowing red or even a dull red, you screwed up.
You want to see some REALLY touchy brass, try annealing 22 Hornet cases. 1 second too long after temp is reached and you've ruined them.
Ledd Slinger
Silver $$ Contributor
What's your basis for this claim?
What testing have you personally conducted to prove this?
Or are you just falling for the marketing statements of AMP annealing company?
I have annealed cases by rotating them in flame with various machines for years. As long as I do it correctly so my shoulder bumps and neck tension are consistent after annealing...then guess what? It's working
My annealed cases have a WAY longer useable life than cases that I do not anneal. So I really can't see that there is any truth to your statement.
I went to salt bath annealing because I wanted to KNOW exactly what temperature I was subjecting my brass to. I use about 5 seconds in a 1000 F salt bath. No guessing, it's monitored by a temperature gage and produces very uniform results every time.
Ballistic Recreations in Canada sells a kit. Cheap, and easy to use.
Ballistic Recreations in Canada sells a kit. Cheap, and easy to use.
The margin of error is much longer than 2-3 seconds for most cases. I roasted a 3006 brass for a full minute to see what would happen in propane and it was soft but would still keep its form when I seated a bullet. No i did not fire it it was just a dummy round to see if it would work. That's why I want to know how the op managed to get them that soft.
My suggestion is to call and talk to Darrel Jones at DJ’s Brass Service. He is a great guy to talk to and he is an expert on brass. I bet he can help.
Ben
Ben
What's your basis for this claim?
What testing have you personally conducted to prove this?
Or are you just falling for the marketing statements of AMP annealing company?
I have annealed cases by rotating them in flame with various machines for years. As long as I do it correctly so my shoulder bumps and neck tension are consistent after annealing...then guess what? It's working
My annealed cases have a WAY longer useable life than cases that I do not anneal. So I really can't see that there is any truth to your statement.
I'm curious also, from what I know about Mr. Murdica he is extremely knowledgeable and his contributions, testing and track record far exceed most.
Lou Murdica
Silver $$ Contributor
Ledd
15 years of shooting in a tunnel nearly every day testing almost every unit and product sold.
15 years of shooting in a tunnel nearly every day testing almost every unit and product sold.
I've had success work hardening over annealed brass by running it through a sizer and expander several times. Unless it is truly dead soft it hardens up fairly quickly, 3-4 repetitions. I suppose you could toss it as advised, but I've used brass done with this process in benchrest matches with no ill effects. Also, anyone who claims he can calibrate time and temp using a torch and gloves is suspect to questionable judgement.
YMMV,
Rick
YMMV,
Rick
muleman69
USMC -1st marine Div. RVN
I ' think you are right about the decimal but Why would some pieces be sized .060 under the majority from factory?I think you have a dancing decimal point.
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Heating and cooling is part of the hardning process because brass is not loke steel.
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