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I think I over annealed some brass

New brass needs to have the neck expanded ,preferably with a mandrel. I don't think enough heat migrated to the web area but if your concerned crush it and add to scrap bucket.
 
This is new brass annealed at approximately 6 seconds, loaded with 59.5 grains of 4831 and set bullet to seat .050 of lands then crushed neck down into shoulder? What have I done wrong?.280 Ackley
Annealing brass dries out all the lube or oil inside the neck and turns the carbon to sand paper. This will cause a great amount of friction when trying to seat a bullet.. I have deformed bullets and also crushed/(deformed) the shoulder on good brass. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck before trying to seat a bullet.
 
Annealing brass dries out all the lube or oil inside the neck and turns the carbon to sand paper. This will cause a great amount of friction when trying to seat a bullet.. I have deformed bullets and also crushed/(deformed) the shoulder on good brass. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck before trying to seat a bullet.
Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
 
New brass needs to have the neck expanded ,preferably with a mandrel. I don't think enough heat migrated to the web area but if your concerned crush it and add to scrap bucket.
I guess if I expand and it does not crush I'm good to go? I will use lube as ALBULLET suggested
 
This is new brass annealed at approximately 6 seconds, loaded with 59.5 grains of 4831 and set bullet to seat .050 of lands then crushed neck down into shoulder? What have I done wrong?.280 Ackley

I have a .280 AI that I use Nosler brass in. I haven't played with it since last fall but if memory serves me correctly the necks were tight new.

I always size after annealing.

I hesitate to even say this because it will likely start a huge disagreement but there is a difference in some 280 AI dies. Several were made before the cartridge was SAMMI approved and there is about a .014 difference in some dies at the shoulder.

I started with a Lee sizing die and couldn't touch the shoulder but this would seem the opposite of your problem.

On new Nosler brass I would not anneal but would size just enough with an expander ball to make sure the necks are round and use a little lube on the necks so you get a trace inside the necks.
 
Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
Case lube on a bore mop after a bronze brush works for me.
A worked hardened neck which needs annealing will also cause trouble if it's heated ; but not annealed. It will still be very hard and not allow the bullet to expand the neck during the seating process.The heat has dried all the oils(lube,carbon) inside the neck but case neck never reached proper temp to be annealed... Don't remember : think your cases were new..!!??You may have a dry case neck from heat and also sized the neck down too much with out using a expander mandrel. You better also lube inside the neck before you FL size and try to pull that dry neck over the expander mandrel...dry the excess lube before dropping in powder or it will stick all inside the neck....
This may not happen to you again...
 
Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
I use 3-IN-ONE DRY LUBE. I apply it with a foam Q-Tip. It doesn't take a thick coating and be sure to let it dry which doesn't take very long. I apply it inside the neck before FL sizing or using a mandrell and/or before I drop the powder. It will be a dry film so powder will not stick to the neck and it will make seating the bullet easier.
 
Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
This is a lot easier, dip the case neck in or the bullet itself and seat away.
redding_imperial_application_media_large.jpg
 
6.5creed
It’s OK to use propane they been using propane since the 1950s. If you like it keep doing what you do and not everybody can afford a AMP machine . But technology that we use today in 2018 is AMP. At this point there is no better in my opinion . I have tried 5 of the propane units over the years.

I am only giving my opinion on all the testing I have done which is more than almost anybody out there. Only thing I would use propane for now is the barbecue.

And as far as lube inside your necks you guys are making bad mistakes . If you’re going to lube inside the neck use dry Molly.
You get a cutting board Swab the caliber you using dip in it and put it inside your neck.

It changes absolutely no pressures. Bullets will seat smoothly every single time. Will not affect putting powder in your case . And for pre-loads it will not make a bond inside of the neck and the bullet. Pressure does not change after preloading two or three weeks early. And from the sounds of things and less you’re shooting semi Adamatic rifles you’re using too much neck tension .
Remember this is just my opinion.
 
6.5creed
It’s OK to use propane they been using propane since the 1950s. If you like it keep doing what you do and not everybody can afford a AMP machine . But technology that we use today in 2018 is AMP. At this point there is no better in my opinion . I have tried 5 of the propane units over the years.

I am only giving my opinion on all the testing I have done which is more than almost anybody out there. Only thing I would use propane for now is the barbecue.

And as far as lube inside your necks you guys are making bad mistakes . If you’re going to lube inside the neck use dry Molly.
You get a cutting board Swab the caliber you using dip in it and put it inside your neck.

It changes absolutely no pressures. Bullets will seat smoothly every single time. Will not affect putting powder in your case . And for pre-loads it will not make a bond inside of the neck and the bullet. Pressure does not change after preloading two or three weeks early. And from the sounds of things and less you’re shooting semi Adamatic rifles you’re using too much neck tension .
Remember this is just my opinion.

I've never have trouble seating with propane annealed necks. Every now and then I have trouble seating new brass that has not been ran through a sizing die to put the necks back in round.

I can afford an AMP or any other annealing machine I want but the propane machine has worked flawlessly for me and I see no benefit in upgrading at this time.
 
I failed English I’m sorry I not saying any body can’t afford the unit. But if they don’t want to put that much money out go together with a few friends and get one. It’s well worth it if they anneal.
And you should keep doing what you’re Comfortable With that’s half the battle.
 
I failed English I’m sorry I not saying any body can’t afford the unit. But if they don’t want to put that much money out go together with a few friends and get one. It’s well worth it if they anneal.
And you should keep doing what you’re Comfortable With that’s half the battle.

Whatever Lou you just keep telling people they're doing it wrong and insinuating they're dumb or poor for not doing it your way. Sorry I put my 2 cents worth in your thread.
 
I went to salt bath annealing because I wanted to KNOW exactly what temperature I was subjecting my brass to. I use about 5 seconds in a 1000 F salt bath. No guessing, it's monitored by a temperature gage and produces very uniform results every time.
Ballistic Recreations in Canada sells a kit. Cheap, and easy to use.
Yep, after trashing about 50 .243 cases with a flame I went this route as well. After you get the hang of it, it would be really hard to screw it up. Same as you 5 seconds in 1000 degree salt and mine are coming out at 767 degrees.
 

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