Annealing brass dries out all the lube or oil inside the neck and turns the carbon to sand paper. This will cause a great amount of friction when trying to seat a bullet.. I have deformed bullets and also crushed/(deformed) the shoulder on good brass. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck before trying to seat a bullet.This is new brass annealed at approximately 6 seconds, loaded with 59.5 grains of 4831 and set bullet to seat .050 of lands then crushed neck down into shoulder? What have I done wrong?.280 Ackley
Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? ThanksAnnealing brass dries out all the lube or oil inside the neck and turns the carbon to sand paper. This will cause a great amount of friction when trying to seat a bullet.. I have deformed bullets and also crushed/(deformed) the shoulder on good brass. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck before trying to seat a bullet.
I guess if I expand and it does not crush I'm good to go? I will use lube as ALBULLET suggestedNew brass needs to have the neck expanded ,preferably with a mandrel. I don't think enough heat migrated to the web area but if your concerned crush it and add to scrap bucket.
if you cant buy a AMP dont anneal at all. you are better off. the propane ones are not good for your brass.
This is new brass annealed at approximately 6 seconds, loaded with 59.5 grains of 4831 and set bullet to seat .050 of lands then crushed neck down into shoulder? What have I done wrong?.280 Ackley
Case lube on a bore mop after a bronze brush works for me.Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
I use 3-IN-ONE DRY LUBE. I apply it with a foam Q-Tip. It doesn't take a thick coating and be sure to let it dry which doesn't take very long. I apply it inside the neck before FL sizing or using a mandrell and/or before I drop the powder. It will be a dry film so powder will not stick to the neck and it will make seating the bullet easier.Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
This is a lot easier, dip the case neck in or the bullet itself and seat away.Didn't no this ,what lube should a man use for seating? Thanks
6.5creed
It’s OK to use propane they been using propane since the 1950s. If you like it keep doing what you do and not everybody can afford a AMP machine . But technology that we use today in 2018 is AMP. At this point there is no better in my opinion . I have tried 5 of the propane units over the years.
I am only giving my opinion on all the testing I have done which is more than almost anybody out there. Only thing I would use propane for now is the barbecue.
And as far as lube inside your necks you guys are making bad mistakes . If you’re going to lube inside the neck use dry Molly.
You get a cutting board Swab the caliber you using dip in it and put it inside your neck.
It changes absolutely no pressures. Bullets will seat smoothly every single time. Will not affect putting powder in your case . And for pre-loads it will not make a bond inside of the neck and the bullet. Pressure does not change after preloading two or three weeks early. And from the sounds of things and less you’re shooting semi Adamatic rifles you’re using too much neck tension .
Remember this is just my opinion.
I used the Imperial Dry lube for a long time before switching to the 3-IN-ONE DRY LUBE which I find just as slick if not more and easy to use and not near as messy to work with.This is a lot easier, dip the case neck in or the bullet itself and seat away.
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bar-b -que and propane,,NEVER,grill maybe,,BAR-B-QUE,,post oak or hickory only,,. Only thing I would use propane for now is the barbecue.
I think I have some of that, have to check, thanksThis is a lot easier, dip the case neck in or the bullet itself and seat away.
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I failed English I’m sorry I not saying any body can’t afford the unit. But if they don’t want to put that much money out go together with a few friends and get one. It’s well worth it if they anneal.
And you should keep doing what you’re Comfortable With that’s half the battle.
Yep, after trashing about 50 .243 cases with a flame I went this route as well. After you get the hang of it, it would be really hard to screw it up. Same as you 5 seconds in 1000 degree salt and mine are coming out at 767 degrees.I went to salt bath annealing because I wanted to KNOW exactly what temperature I was subjecting my brass to. I use about 5 seconds in a 1000 F salt bath. No guessing, it's monitored by a temperature gage and produces very uniform results every time.
Ballistic Recreations in Canada sells a kit. Cheap, and easy to use.
How do you measure temps, Lefty? IR thermometer?