I'll try the polishing methods that have been suggested, and will practice on scrap pieces of aluminum of different grades, which I have in my shop, as I don't expect to receive the new Panda action for several weeks. Right now I need to really concentrate on the matches I will be shooting this year with my F-T/R rifle; yes, with a polished Panda action, which shoots as great as it looks... I think.
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Thanks again! By the way that stock looks outstanding, I almost have to like it because I am Irish.
Nando (Alex)
Youd be surprised as to how itll look just polishing with a cloth and a good metal polish. Its not like theyre rough to start with
Alex,
If you're afraid to use a buffer, you can produce a mirror like finish on your action using a very fine Japanese whetstone. Be prepared to spend a number of hours on it.
Read #34, Tim. I also removed the polished overflow tank.
GSXR, what happened to the pics of the knives you posted?
Yes, you did; and the information is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again!To help Alex, and show him what one can do with a buffer and the proper grade of Rouge. He did ask for ideas and suggestions! I also forwarded to him a very good article dealing with buffing and polishing. The photos were simply to show Alex just how well the finished product can look, and the difference between hand polished, and machine polished.
I did polish one a while back, it was bead blasted so I had to take care of that. What I did was use a 10x14 piece of flat granite (you can get one from a woodcraft store) and used progressively finer sand paper, the granite allows you to do one of the flat sides at a time and not worry about rounding edges, after I got it down to 2400 (or 2500, I forget) I then used a buffing wheel with Mothers aluminum wheel polish, it came out nice but was a ton of work.
Just wanting a fresh sandpaper finish on a Panda I just bought, how many hours did it take you to achieve the finish you ended with using the 2400-2500 paper?...anybody have an estimate?
Ben