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How to fix this 700 extraction/ejection

Numrich has them right now.
www.gunpartscorp.com

Extractor, .17 Rem, .222 & .223 Cal., NewStyle, New Factory Original (Rivetless) 700 REMINGTON

Extractor, .17 Rem, .222 & .223 Cal., NewStyle, New Factory Original (Rivetless) 700 REMINGTON
www.gunpartscorp.com www.gunpartscorp.com
So does PTG

Extractor, Remington Small (223) - Pacific Tool and Gauge

Remington Small Extractor (New Style) at Pacific Tool and Gauge
pacifictoolandgauge.com pacifictoolandgauge.com

If you must go with a Sako or other type extractor mod, the Mini 16 is rated to withstand more pressure in the event of a blowout. Not common, but if the Sako fails due to overload, you can get it right in the chops. Sako puts a baffle on their bolts to safeguard against this. Saw this first-hand with a blown Mini Mauser. The baffle stopped my son from getting it in the eyeball. Receiver lugs set back .030", bolt cracked in half lengthwise, extractor disappeared. Sako style baffle bent all to hell.
 
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Trying to order from PTG. Their website is FUBAR as far as signing in to my account and/or checking out. Frustrating.
 
When I looked at the PTG bolt options I see the M-16 extractor, even the mini one, is not an option for the 223 bolt face. Only for the 308 and magnum bolts. The only option for the 223 bolt is the Sako. So I think maybe the M-16 extractor doesn't work for 223? You wouldn't expect that given that the M-16 is 5.56/.223.

Right now I cannot access the PTG site. Oh well, I'll try later.
 
AccelR8 said:
I guess I will order a new ejector and spring too for good measure.
Click to expand...
Let me qualify my response. I'm not a gunsmith, not even a wanna be. And I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. But I do shoot a lot of Rem 700 actions (more of the small bolt faces, but several of the .308 bolt faces as well). And I have been lucky enough to not have the problem you are having.

But I detest the strong ejection spring/system on the Rem 700 bolts. On fired cases, it will tend to dent the case mouth as the case SLAMS in the wall of the receiver after it clears the chamber. And then it will toss them several feet away when it clear the action. Neither are desirable for me. So I put a much weaker replacement spring in place of the factory ejector spring. No more case mouths dented, and the brass just ejects to the bench top where I am shooting. And I can't help but think the extractor lip is your problem, being exacerbated by strong factory ejector spring. And since they are out of stock, the easiest fix of just replacing the extractor can't be tried. But in the mean time, maybe consider a lighter spring force ejector spring. And cutting a few coils of the factory spring wasn't a strategy I went with. Ernie the gunsmith sells a kit of lighter springs you can try.
 
I do have an extra AR15/M16 extractor or two as spare parts...and I have a milling machine.

I fear a "hold my beer" moment coming on.

(Just kidding. Hoping for a minimally invasive solution!)
 
I have a Model 7 in 223, and it would drop an empty case right back in the action. Take the ejector out (I agree a stock spring is way too much) and snap a fired case in the boltface. Then tilt the case outwards in the same direction the ejector would push it. On mine the case would hang up on the nose of the bolt which extends over the extractor. It should roll right out. I used a dremel and ground down the top of the nose which extended into the case space. Mine ejects fine now, same extractor.
 
I have had good luck very carefully removing the rivetless extractor in my 700 .204 bolt, cleaning the brass out and then replacing that extractor back in. I have a spare extractor but have not had to use it yet, even though that rifle gets shot a lot. I use a sewing needle for the removal.
 
OK new extractor ordered from PTG and also one of the three-piece ejector kits. I'll report back after I get them and install them. Thirty eight bucks total with shipping. Not bad.

Meantime, I may experiment with lengthening the slot on the existing ejector just for learning purposes. I know I have a spare ejector around here. Somewhere...:)
 
AccelR8 said:
When I looked at the PTG bolt options I see the M-16 extractor, even the mini one, is not an option for the 223 bolt face. Only for the 308 and magnum bolts. The only option for the 223 bolt is the Sako. So I think maybe the M-16 extractor doesn't work for 223? You wouldn't expect that given that the M-16 is 5.56/.223.

Right now I cannot access the PTG site. Oh well, I'll try later.
Click to expand...
you need to check again. .223 bf w/ mini 16 extractor is showing up in 1 piece and 2 piece bolts when I log in.
 
New extractor and new ejector. It seems like there's some improvement. Cases that are 1.760" in length extract and eject perfect. They barely clear the e-port and land on the bench top right beside the rifle. On shorter cases, they will be left behind lying on the mag follower unless I retract the bolt rapidly.

I notice the new ejector extends a lot less than flush with the bolt nose.

I had actually made a new ejector, rather than modify my original one as suggested by some in this thread. I made mine so as to be flush with the bolt nose, which did not solve the original issue and then I modified it to extend just a little bit. Still did not solve.

I'll run it like it is now for a while and see how it goes. My 788 tosses cases 12 feet. I would like to stick with this gentle ejection I'm getting with this ejector, as long as extraction is somewhat reliable.
 

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Ejector should be just about flush with the bolt nose. many rounds can get by with it shorter but with your challenges, the longer the better. Extending it beyond the bolt nose can cause it to rub on the barrel tenon which will take away your feel.

"fast" is subjective. Most people pull the bolt back without delay. Perhaps you could just get in the habit of pulling it back faster... on the ohter hand, if by fast you mean jerking and slamming it against the bolt stop, then that is not desirable. But if you can pull it back smoothly and fast enough that the shell leaving the chamber does not contact the inside of the action in front of the ejection port it should eject. Now to make it not hit the inside of the action you may want a LIGHTER ejector spring instead of a heavier one. Gretan and others sell lighter springs.
 
I wonder if this new ejector which protrudes less from the bolt face is allowing the rim of the bolt face/nose (sorry if my terminology is bad) to prevent the cartridge rim sliding out from under the extractor?

One way to find out might be to reinstall the other ejector (the flush with the bolt nose one) along with the new extractor and see if it works or not. Learning might then take place. But I'm afraid of pushing my luck, launching and loosing parts. Leave well enough alone.
 
Actually when installing my new extractor I was using a slave pin but somehow when tapping in the real roll pin, the slave popped out before the roll pin was in enough and my ejector and spring did an impersonation of a SpaceX launch. Recovery was successful though.
 
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