butchlambert
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Has anybody actually measured the change in headspace from a barrel that is firm to the front ring and tightened to whatever? I'm trying to see the receiver ring or barrel shoulder collapsing.
How much torque on barrels
- Thread starter Grimstod
- Start date
I did and thought it was about .001", but I doubt my measuring was more than .001" of accuracy. I did that based on brass spring back, but I was measuring with Hornady tool on a Mitituyo digital caliper. While I like to think I can measure to the 1/2 thousandth, I wonder if I really can.....
Headspace does seem a tad tighter from when I check it on the lathe to when I torque the barrel in place. Something like just fully closing on a go gauge to closing 1/2 way.
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Well I don’t know what happens but the last few I have done headspace is good when I just hand tighten them but after torquing they won’t close on the go gauge.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Once you tighten them to set torque then the shoulder of the barrel burnishes itself. Once you do that it should be the same headspace from hand tight pop to 40lbs. If you hand tighten it then headspace once you burnish the freshly machined shoulder youll usually lose .001 or so. Headspacing by measurement it usually doesnt matter but initially setting it by feel it does show up sometimes. You can minimize this by using a not so sharp radius on the tool you cut the shoulder with
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
Thanks
jds holler
Gold $$ Contributor
After reading through all this hub-bub, I think that I'm more than ever a fan of nutted barrels and witness marks. 
jd
jdBoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
I think that this is much ado about nothing. I have had both shouldered and nutted barrels on and off many times with nary a problem, without using a torque wrench. I have done a lot of mechanical work and believe that torque wrenches are an absolute requirement for many tasks, but I do not use one for either type of barrel, and my results have not suffered. I have always had a pretty good feel for tightening fasteners, but I have seen some that I believe should take every precaution, and others who probably should pay for all their work rather than attempt it themselves.
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NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Tighten it till it turns REAL EASY then back it off about 1/8 th. of a turn.
No torque wrench for me. I estimate about 40-50 lbs of down pressure on the action wrench and call it a day.
If the receiver face and barrel shoulder are precisely machined at 90 degrees and the faces are free of machining marks the barrel should come to a very firm and recognizable stop when they come together. You get excessive rotation and "crush" when full 360 contact isn't made upon contact.
If the receiver face and barrel shoulder are precisely machined at 90 degrees and the faces are free of machining marks the barrel should come to a very firm and recognizable stop when they come together. You get excessive rotation and "crush" when full 360 contact isn't made upon contact.
I use 75ft/lbs on a torque wrench and a raceway tool To torque the barrel. I torque mark TDC then send them off to be fluted. I reassemble and boom 75lbs lines up exactly. This process has never failed me. I used antisieze on the threads from the start. When I chamber I shoot for go plus .002” As a stop. i normally ended up with go plus .002” as my no-go. I use a .002” shim disk as my feeler gauge
I used to not use a torque wrench. I can't on hunting barrels anyway, but I can in BR barrels. I had been just giving the action wrench a snap I am using the type that engages the lugs and takes a 3/4" socket. I my case I was using a 3/4" combination wrench.
The first match I shot so this year was my first match with the 300 WSM I had just built. When I went to unscrew the muzzle brake for cleaning the whole barrel came loose. I had never had that issue tightening barrels that way with the 6mms.
I now use a torque wrench when I can. I like about 60 ft lbs.
The first match I shot so this year was my first match with the 300 WSM I had just built. When I went to unscrew the muzzle brake for cleaning the whole barrel came loose. I had never had that issue tightening barrels that way with the 6mms.
I now use a torque wrench when I can. I like about 60 ft lbs.
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tmwinds
Gold $$ Contributor
How often do you calibrate the hammer?
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Do they make digital version?
I will check in on that.
I have been removing and replacing barrels and machining barrels for about 45 years and this thread has convinced me I know absolutely nothing and should probably sell the tools. WH
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
That includes me.
I'll add that I never seen an appreciable change in HS after installing a barrel.
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