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Hey AR Guys....A Review of my New AR and Questions

Lately I've been using this RadcoLube CLP I got from Amazon because it meets that super stringent new milspec that the synthetic G96 meet also (the only two I know of) and it's pretty cheap. Very impressed so far. Never was a believer in a single product holding down the fort, but I'm losing my skepticism on this stuff. (NO THIS IS NOT A DIVERSION TO A CLEANING THREAD!!!)
 
Lately I've been using this RadcoLube CLP I got from Amazon because it meets that super stringent new milspec that the synthetic G96 meet also (the only two I know of) and it's pretty cheap. Very impressed so far. Never was a believer in a single product holding down the fort, but I'm losing my skepticism on this stuff. (NO THIS IS NOT A DIVERSION TO A CLEANING THREAD!!!)
Not diverting to cleaning thread, but I'm running my DI guns with Seal1.
Bio degradable, smells good, and more slippery than snot on the door knob.
Works great for swabbing barrel after wype out.
 
What twist, and is the bore chrome plated?

I "read" once where someone said if it will not shoot with Federal GMM 69 gr Sierra Match King, it will not shoot. I found that to not be 100% true, but pretty close. You might try those.


Really? The trigger is Ok? I've never seen a milspec trigger that was acceptable to me. Many options to improve that. To stay with the same trigger, I suggest Bill Springfield. https://triggerwork.net/contactinfo.html

So clearly I believe ammo and trigger are your biggest issues. But that is probably just a 1.5" rifle.
+1 on the trigger comment. I’m using Geissele triggers but your best value trigger today is probably a LaRue, around $100.

I would amend slightly on the ammo, my 1:7 twist rifle doesn’t like the 69s but it loves the GMM Sierra 77s. I found GMM to be some of the lowest MV variability factory ammo in several different calibers. Use either the 69 for an 8 twist barrel or the 77 for a 7 twist barrel. Around 1 - 1.5 MOA is what you can expect with your scope issue fixed, unless you embark on a BR-like quest for accuracy by tweaking lots of stuff, but that what your bolt action is for.

An AR is about rapid, realistic size target engagement. I like to stand 10 clay pigeons scattered across 5-10 feet on the berm at 200 yds and see how fast I can kill em. Speed matters. Then shoot the big pieces again.
 
My AR-15 that I use for Three Gun shoots has a Geissele SSA-E two stage trigger. My PD AR-15 has a Geissele High Speed National Match two stage trigger. I thought the SSA-E trigger was great until I got the High Speed NM trigger.
 
My first experience with modern ARs was around 2014. A work colleague mentioned that he assembled one and I was surprised they were even legal in CA. I mentioned that they were expensive and inaccurate compared to bolt guns back when I was a kid so I never gave them another thought.

We subsequently went to the range and I let my buddy shoot my Wby Varmintmaster and he immediately shot a sub-MOA group using my handloads. He let me shoot his AR and I squeeze the trigger and nothing happens. I ask if the safety is on - he checks and says no. I squeeze again and nothing happens. He tries and bang! Turns out he had a 9# trigger, whereas none of my guns has anything heavier than 2.5#.

Long story short, I made him into a precision rifle convert and he made me into an AR convert, but only in precision configuration. He owns a RRA and a WOA, but only the latter is under MOA. I have a couple of WOA and Dtech uppers and they are all sub MOA. Too small a sample size, so take the anecdotes for what they are worth.

Bottom line is ARs have come a long way and you can buy turn-key sub-MOA accuracy.
 
First experience with an AR type firearm was at Ft. Sill, OK. I didn't care for them much then, I still don't. I have 3. I don't care much for the collapsible stock, swapped it out to an A2 , groups shrank nicely. Mine are not bench rest accuracy type firearms , they serve well as tractor guns , possums and coons stealing pears , strange noises in the night type firearms. They all shoot less than MOA , 6.5 Gren does very well , 1/2" capable . With all that said an AR is what it is to me. I have done my own triggers on them, and load for them individually .
 
I have built so many AR's I have lost count. I don't understand the inability some folks have with accuracy. When I say I build them, I mean I mill the receivers myself and use some really cheap parts. With a set of light springs, and a bit of honing, I usually get the triggers under 3 lbs. Using a run of the mill Bushnell scope 1/2 in groups are easily attainable for me. The secret is to match the bullet with the barrel twist and then do the testing for powder. I don't pay much attention to SAMMI specs when it come to OAL It's what the barrel wants and what the paper looks after firing groups. I can get 3 in groups using a Red Dot. If you want to go to the line and empty a mag in a few seconds, then you should get a Chrome lined barrel.
 
I have built so many AR's I have lost count. I don't understand the inability some folks have with accuracy. When I say I build them, I mean I mill the receivers myself and use some really cheap parts. With a set of light springs, and a bit of honing, I usually get the triggers under 3 lbs. Using a run of the mill Bushnell scope 1/2 in groups are easily attainable for me. The secret is to match the bullet with the barrel twist and then do the testing for powder. I don't pay much attention to SAMMI specs when it come to OAL It's what the barrel wants and what the paper looks after firing groups. I can get 3 in groups using a Red Dot. If you want to go to the line and empty a mag in a few seconds, then you should get a Chrome lined barrel.
Read my mind!
 
Highpower service rifle shooter here.

I'll echo what everyone else has said...a factory carbon setup like that may only he capable of 1.5 moa or so.

If you've got benchrest experience, you obviously know your way around a rifle. This isn't a benchrest rifle...I'd suggest a bipod for the front, and a shooting surface that you can load the bipod against, and a FIRM grip with your firing hand. When I'm done with a 20 round slow prone string, my firing hand is imprinted pretty well from the molded in checking on the A2 grip, and I've got marks/bruises on my shoulder from the sling pressing the stock HARD into my shoulder....and that's with a Creedmoor coat and hoodie underneath. A firm cheekweld helps too, but not many stock/scope mount setups allow for that.

My theory is that there's a lot of action and movement in an AR that you don't have with a bolt gun, and to minimize that you have to smother the rifle and hold it down during firing. I've never had much luck with a light touch or free recoil for an AR.

Just my $0.02.
 

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