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Help me pick my gun please.

Relatively new guy here to long range shooting. I would sincerely appreciate any feedback you can give me on the following:

Looking at these two guns for a long range gun (500 yards maximum). Was leaning to the Model 12 because Savage said it was more accurate. However, I didn't like the extra weight and I don't really like laminated stocks. However, I read posts on the Model 10 Predator and everyone said it shoots like 1/2" groups or better which really surprised me. My current Savage .243 weather warrior can't shoot that with me behind the trigger.

Probably using the Hornady 87 grain hpbt shooting of a Tri stand (ewcalls.com) for coyotes and groundhogs and deer.

I set my triggers at 1.5 pounds.

Might get it reamed out for an Ackley Improved but not sure how that process would affect accuracy (do they mess with the barrell or just the chamber) and if the benefits are worth it. Spoke to a guy at Hart barrells who highly recommended the AI over the standard shoulder...seemed to really believe it was more accurate.

Savage Model 10 Predator Hunter Max 243 WIN
Rate of Twist: 9.25
Weight: 8.5 lbs
Overall Length: 44"
Barrel Length: 24"
Ammo Capacity: 4 round(s)
MSRP: $945.00

or

Savage Model 12 VLP DBM243 WIN
Rate of Twist: 9.25
Weight: 10 lbs
Overall Length: 46.25"
Barrel Length: 26"
Ammo Capacity: 4 round(s)
MSRP: $1080.00


PS...I recently found this web site and love it. Get lots of good input which helps at my stage quite bit. Thanks in advance!
 
I have nothing against Savage rifles - I just don't own any so I can't comment on them but have heard a lot good reports on them.

However I'd take a look at the Browning X bolt varmint stalker in 243.

I have the 223 model in the A Bolt. I also have the X bolt in the composite stalker in 223. Both rifles are sub 1/2 moa rifles out of the box with tuned reloads. The X bolt has a much better trigger and better magazine design. These rifle come glass bedded from the factory.

The varmint stalker come with a heavy barrel, 24" and is very portable in the field and might be ideal for your purposes.
 
Consider building your own with Jim at Northland Shooters if you are going the Savage route. A non-designated action(Model 12) with DBM-bottom metal-target accutrigger, H-S Precision stock and a Criterion barrel chambered in your choice. Probably come in right around $1K and you can get an AI, if desired, and less chance of a tomato stake! You might want to think about a 6X47 Lapua also, less powder and real close ballistics. JMHO
 
Savage Model 10 Predator Hunter Max 243 WIN
Rate of Twist: 9.25
Weight: 8.5 lbs
Overall Length: 44"
Barrel Length: 24"
Ammo Capacity: 4 round(s)
MSRP: $945.00

Get this & be done, street price is about $750.

I wont own another brand over a Savage. I have 7 & built 4 of them, & they all have the factory plastic stocks on them. No need to change what works at all.
Heck my .243 sporter, 22" stick bbl M10 will do 700yds w/no problem, course I know my loads & I shoot darn good as it is. I have yet to require a coyote or Antelope shot past 300 yds witgh it.
 
Tikka T-3.

I bought a T-3 Lite for coyote hunting. Mounted a Redfield 4-12 in the supplied rings and went to the range to sight it in.

I was shooting a prairie dog outline with a 1.5" "X ring" at 100 yards. 10 year old Federals that I was using just to get on paper.

The very first shot went into the bottom of the X ring. I moved it up and proceeded to hammer the remaining 19 into the X ring too.

Some of them just clipped it, but we're talking about rickety wooden benches, a Harris bipod and squeeze bag and a numbskull shooting an AK raining brass on me from the 2nd bench to my left.

For a knock around rifle, they are hard to beat.
 
Here's Jim's number:

(763) 682-4296

Make sure you have atleast a half an hour to be on the phone because Jim is a talker but, one of the nicest guys you could ever talk to and very helpful! Have fun on your build!

Mike
 
Look at a Sako 85 Varminter. Very accurate out of the box and available with a set trigger. Nice stock as well.
 
I would buy a cheap old savage model 10 or 11 in a 243 if that's the caliber you like then figure out if the thing will shoot and modify it till you get it were you want it . First change would be a sharp shooter supply trigger from the gunshack. then next a custom barrel and chamber job from a good gunsmith in just a little heavier barrel and throw out the Tupperware stock and order a boyds or stockys laminate. Heres a stevens with a little work. SSS trigger, shilen select match barrel and recoil lug, boyds thumbhole laminate stock and a little bedding job and it shoots. 5 shot groups under .250@200 yds
$349 barrel
$27 recoil lug
$92 boyds stock
$96 trigger
$330 stevens 200 rifle
Total $894 plus $20 for my smith to replace barrel
 

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One thing I forgot to mention is that once you start doing your own builds it becomes very ADDICTING and it doesn't stop at one rifle , I'm on my 8th build now and there's no hope for me to stop this ADDICTION....
 
If you want a coyote rifle, you want something that you can bang around. I'd buy the Stevens, put the better trigger in it, glass bed it and call it done. You're not interesed in quarter minute of angle, you're interested in minute of coyote.

If you want a bit nicer rifle, the Tikka Lite or the Sako are nice. It's a nice little action. Great trigger. I keep getting off on a tangent thinking that I'll put it in an Eliseo chassis, then I think "Why?". It's perfect as is.
 
It really depends on how you want to hunt coyote. My light calling rifle is about 8 pounds and I pack a benelli M2 as well much of the time. It will reach to 500 with repeatable accuracy.
My spot and Stalk rig is around 15 lbs. It is more forgiving at long range, but it is easier to get burned up close by runners.
Everything is a bit of a trade off, but for calling and shooting 500 and in, I would tend to run with the lighter rig.
 
Around here, 200 is a long shot. It's more like turkey hunting.
 
I want the cool aide...let my cup runneth over! ;D

Can anyone give me a trigger, barrell, and stock that I could buy and drop off at my gunsmith. Prefer the more reasonably priced items. I'm happy with 1/2" groups at one hundred yards. Maybe part numbers and links to what you would recommend so I can start picking up the pieces.

Still not sure if I should go with the .243 or AI version.

Will shoot the Hornady 87 grain bthp
 
Just in case you haven't seen this yet. http://www.6mmbr.com/243Win.html

I was just looking at the prints again to see how to use my dasher reamer to cut my 243ai chamber. Looks like you get a tad better throat life and less case stretch with the AI if that even matters. Maybe save you some time in the reloading room not having to trim brass every time?

Jim
 

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