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Heavy Buildup ?'s: Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, Carb-Out. Sharp Shoot R

Been using all the bore cleaners from Sharp Shoot R (Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, No-Lead, Carb-Out) with what I thought was great success in till I bought a bore scope. The majority of the bore was clean and shinny but there is often streaks of carbon buildup that just wouldn't come clean using the no brush method per the manufacture. After using their with bronze brushes, the carbon started to clean (Nylon brushed didn't help at all). Under the carbon was more copper that the Carb-out didn't remove, so I used Patch-Out rush w/bronze to remove that copper. Alternating between Carb-out and Patch-Out is finally getting my bore down to bare metal. I had same results when removing heavy factory lead buildup on Walther manufactured 22 lr barrels, I had to use a tornado brush to get the last of the lead out.

Questions?
If you just leavy the hard heavy buildup that doesn't come out with normal cleaning, will corroision start to attack the barrel over time?

Per Sharp Shoot R, would you say these statments are correct or is it just marketing?
1) "CARB-OUT ™ leaves behind a protective coating that prevents future carbon adherence This coating is less than 100th of a micron in thickness, it will not affect first shot accuracy".
2) "The reason we don’t want you to put oil in the barrel is two-fold. When oil burns it produces carbon deposits which are harder to remove than copper fouling. The second reason is that with oil in the bore after cleaning, it is necessary to take 4 to 5 fouling shots. The fouling shots in reality just burn the oil residue out of the bore. Oil in the bore causes the bullet not to get adequate purchase on the rifling. The bullet sort of hydro-planes inaccurately until all the oil is gone. With Wipe-Out you don’t waste 4 or 5 rounds of ammo every time you clean. More importantly the “cold-bore shot” will be right in the middle of the group."
 
Been using all the bore cleaners from Sharp Shoot R (Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, No-Lead, Carb-Out) with what I thought was great success in till I bought a bore scope. The majority of the bore was clean and shinny but there is often streaks of carbon buildup that just wouldn't come clean using the no brush method per the manufacture. After using their with bronze brushes, the carbon started to clean (Nylon brushed didn't help at all). Under the carbon was more copper that the Carb-out didn't remove, so I used Patch-Out rush w/bronze to remove that copper. Alternating between Carb-out and Patch-Out is finally getting my bore down to bare metal. I had same results when removing heavy factory lead buildup on Walther manufactured 22 lr barrels, I had to use a tornado brush to get the last of the lead out.

Questions?
If you just leavy the hard heavy buildup that doesn't come out with normal cleaning, will corroision start to attack the barrel over time?

Per Sharp Shoot R, would you say these statments are correct or is it just marketing?
1) "CARB-OUT ™ leaves behind a protective coating that prevents future carbon adherence This coating is less than 100th of a micron in thickness, it will not affect first shot accuracy".
2) "The reason we don’t want you to put oil in the barrel is two-fold. When oil burns it produces carbon deposits which are harder to remove than copper fouling. The second reason is that with oil in the bore after cleaning, it is necessary to take 4 to 5 fouling shots. The fouling shots in reality just burn the oil residue out of the bore. Oil in the bore causes the bullet not to get adequate purchase on the rifling. The bullet sort of hydro-planes inaccurately until all the oil is gone. With Wipe-Out you don’t waste 4 or 5 rounds of ammo every time you clean. More importantly the “cold-bore shot” will be right in the middle of the group."

FYI the only nylon brush that works is the blue iosso one. The others are too soft that I have tried.

I switched to wipe out years ago. Eventually you will need to iosso or do something else, but its something like 300 to 500 rounds. Less is more.

I live in the desert, but I have never had rust and do not use oil anymore. I borescope occasionally. Not sure I would do that in a humid climate or long term storage.

Interestingly, I was just thinking I don't have a cold bore problem on any rifle and I shoot paper a lot. Like most weekends from late September till around May. Unfortunately, I can't compare to oil, cuz I didn't shoot paper frequently enough back then.

Velocity always drops after deep cleaning. Thats normal for every method. It speeds up slowly as it get dirtier but the first couple shots can be significantly slower after iosso.
 
Mercury/quicksilver W Power Tune At 12 92-858080q03
This stuff might help.....

Regards
Rick
 
I used Patch Out and those related products until I found the Thorro Clean products. I found them easier to use and they seem to do a better job of cleaning, at least in my mind.
 
Lots of snake oil products out there to trick shooters, Get a Teslong bore scope.

Hint: good bronze bristle brushes, discard them between 60-100 strokes
Get Iosso plastic brushes or Montana Extreme Plastic brushes, use in scrubbing motion when the carbon accumulates.

Do not depend on chemicals to do the job
 
At this point, just use (quiet now, don’t say it too loud) an Abrasive. Take your pick, JB, Iosso, Thorro-Clean, Flitz. They all work. They haven’t ruined my barrels, every few hundred rounds, they mop up the carbon and left over copper.
 

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IMHO once you get a heavy carbon deposit the work it takes to remove it is going to damage the bore. Remove as you shoot best!
 
I foam, when possible, when barrel is still warm from shooting. If later, I shoot some Free All in the bore for a couple minutes than brush a couple strokes. Patch out the loose crud and than accelerator/foam. Leave it for at least 20 minutes. A couple brush strokes, flush out with Free All and a patch. For corrosion prevention I finish with Hornady One shot lube and cleaner.
 
Try Sweets and and hydrogen peroxide it gets everything out. Use a issio brush so you don’t get any false positive readings.
 
"The bullet sort of hydro-planes inaccurately until all the oil is gone. With Wipe-Out..."

Wait what?
eek7.gif
Apparently their "sort of" and my "sort of" are just a wee bit diffrunt.
dizzy.gif
"Hydro-planes"
lol8.gif


Personally I couldn't care less what the bore looks like if the gun shoots acceptably.

Fooling around with a borescope on a rifle that shoots just fine sounds like a great way to mess up the headspace of the nut behind the bolt.
 
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Been using all the bore cleaners from Sharp Shoot R (Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, No-Lead, Carb-Out) with what I thought was great success in till I bought a bore scope. The majority of the bore was clean and shinny but there is often streaks of carbon buildup that just wouldn't come clean using the no brush method per the manufacture. After using their with bronze brushes, the carbon started to clean (Nylon brushed didn't help at all). Under the carbon was more copper that the Carb-out didn't remove, so I used Patch-Out rush w/bronze to remove that copper. Alternating between Carb-out and Patch-Out is finally getting my bore down to bare metal. I had same results when removing heavy factory lead buildup on Walther manufactured 22 lr barrels, I had to use a tornado brush to get the last of the lead out.

Questions?
If you just leavy the hard heavy buildup that doesn't come out with normal cleaning, will corroision start to attack the barrel over time?

Per Sharp Shoot R, would you say these statments are correct or is it just marketing?
1) "CARB-OUT ™ leaves behind a protective coating that prevents future carbon adherence This coating is less than 100th of a micron in thickness, it will not affect first shot accuracy".
2) "The reason we don’t want you to put oil in the barrel is two-fold. When oil burns it produces carbon deposits which are harder to remove than copper fouling. The second reason is that with oil in the bore after cleaning, it is necessary to take 4 to 5 fouling shots. The fouling shots in reality just burn the oil residue out of the bore. Oil in the bore causes the bullet not to get adequate purchase on the rifling. The bullet sort of hydro-planes inaccurately until all the oil is gone. With Wipe-Out you don’t waste 4 or 5 rounds of ammo every time you clean. More importantly the “cold-bore shot” will be right in the middle of the group."
Leave good oil in barrel and patch it out really good before you take it shooting… use 99% alcohol.. cold bore shots are a wildcard no matter how you do it
 
Per Sharp Shoot R, would you say these statments are correct or is it just marketing?
1) "CARB-OUT ™ leaves behind a protective coating that prevents future carbon adherence This coating is less than 100th of a micron in thickness, it will not affect first shot
1 micron is .0000394 inches, soooo 100th of a micron is equal to .000000394 inches. I don’t care so much about how their bore cleaner works as much as I’d like to know how they measured 3 ten millionths of an inch. If they can show me the methodology of how they made that measurement I’ll buy some of their bore cleaner.
 
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Funny people are scared to use a stiff hard brush with abrasive chemicals that might “bruise” their barrel but think nothing of firing 1000’s of rounds copper bullets with powder that’s hotter than a $2 pistol. A barrel is a consumable if It won’t shoot dirty what you got to lose by using what ever it takes to clean it.
Did a bore scope tell it won’t shoot are did the target
 

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