Heavy Buildup ?'s: Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, Carb-Out. Sharp Shoot R

[Sixfiver]

After doing more research on how to clean the hard carbon out of the old Marlin 30-30, started thinking that using bronze brushes with Wipe-Out, Patch-Out and Carb-Out, I possibly could be getting some reaction from the solvents and the bronze brushes when just looking at the color of the patch to see what is being removed. Being that I have a bore scope, I am able to look at before and after cleaning to see what is left in the bore. But I still wonder if there is copper being removed from my bronze brush from the solvents on to the patch?

I have an old Tikka T3 Stainless Steel 30-06 barrel that I had removed that I can do some tests on but I need to get it as clean/strip as much as possible regardless if it is damages the bore by what ever solvent, abrasive or remover used. What would be the best way to get down to bare metal in the old bore? I have Iosso Bore Cleaner, Flitz Polish (grey past), Simple Green, CLR, Rubbing and Polishing Compound (automotive), Seafoam and could go buy what ever else needed. With the abrasive pasts, what would remove the residue from the bore?

Using stainless steel brushes in the donor bore should rule out the solvent contamination from the brush.

 

[CharlieNC]

If you need to get the hard carbon, don't be distracted by the other colors. An abrasive is required, bottom line. Wrap a patch on the bronze brush, Iosso, and go to it. After 25-50 strokes patch it out and check with the scope, repeat as necessary.

 

[CKAB]

Been using all the bore cleaners from Sharp Shoot R (Wipe-Out, Patch-Out, No-Lead, Carb-Out) with what I thought was great success in till I bought a bore scope. The majority of the bore was clean and shinny but there is often streaks of carbon buildup that just wouldn't come clean using the no brush method per the manufacture. After using their with bronze brushes, the carbon started to clean (Nylon brushed didn't help at all). Under the carbon was more copper that the Carb-out didn't remove, so I used Patch-Out rush w/bronze to remove that copper. Alternating between Carb-out and Patch-Out is finally getting my bore down to bare metal. I had same results when removing heavy factory lead buildup on Walther manufactured 22 lr barrels, I had to use a tornado brush to get the last of the lead out.

Questions?
If you just leavy the hard heavy buildup that doesn't come out with normal cleaning, will corroision start to attack the barrel over time?

Per Sharp Shoot R, would you say these statments are correct or is it just marketing?
1) "CARB-OUT ™ leaves behind a protective coating that prevents future carbon adherence This coating is less than 100th of a micron in thickness, it will not affect first shot accuracy".
2) "The reason we don’t want you to put oil in the barrel is two-fold. When oil burns it produces carbon deposits which are harder to remove than copper fouling. The second reason is that with oil in the bore after cleaning, it is necessary to take 4 to 5 fouling shots. The fouling shots in reality just burn the oil residue out of the bore. Oil in the bore causes the bullet not to get adequate purchase on the rifling. The bullet sort of hydro-planes inaccurately until all the oil is gone. With Wipe-Out you don’t waste 4 or 5 rounds of ammo every time you clean. More importantly the “cold-bore shot” will be right in the middle of the group."

I find the Thorro Flush-Clean system to be superior to anything else, a couple patches with CLR works wonders for carbon but get it out after 10-15 minutes

 

[DShortt]

Just use the borescope. You'll see what is or is not in your bore. No need to 'read the tea leaves' of patches.

 

[CKAB]

This stuff might help.....

Regards
Rick

i use the Yamaha stuff but Lordy does it stink!

 

[Steve Donlon]

FYI the only nylon brush that works is the blue iosso one. The others are too soft that I have tried.

I switched to wipe out years ago. Eventually you will need to iosso or do something else, but its something like 300 to 500 rounds. Less is more.

I live in the desert, but I have never had rust and do not use oil anymore. I borescope occasionally. Not sure I would do that in a humid climate or long term storage.

Interestingly, I was just thinking I don't have a cold bore problem on any rifle and I shoot paper a lot. Like most weekends from late September till around May. Unfortunately, I can't compare to oil, cuz I didn't shoot paper frequently enough back then.

Velocity always drops after deep cleaning. Thats normal for every method. It speeds up slowly as it get dirtier but the first couple shots can be significantly slower after iosso.

I just reread all of these over and over so I got out my borescope went at it. And I really do need to use an abrasive more often than I was. 300-500 like you said. I don't get it out every little scratch down to the metal, but most of it. I think the RL16 powder looks like it stains the metal with a thin coat, and if you don't get it off, it's much more work latter.

 

[Rick H.]

Why Lord? Why?

Rick H.